HOrnbrod

Yes, it's tucked way up inside the fender well. You would have to basically rip the fender off to hurt it.

Surprisingly when I pushed down the Schrader valve needle after sitting all night I still got a spritz of fuel. :eek: I guess my check valve in the pump is still working a bit. And yes, to depressurize the rail now I'll just crack loose the gauge, or maybe put a "T" fitting in later.

They are all made by Bosch anyhow; both the Fords and the Mopars.

I concur. 150 degrees is well below the temperatire at which the ECU switches to closed-loop operation. I think it's around 165 to 175 degrees. On my HO, it switches to closed loop as soon as the O2 sensor starts passing traffic, usually at 130 degrees or so. That's why I like the A/F meter; it tells you exactly when it goes into closed loop.

I talk to Ron once in awhile. Last I heard he had finished his ZJ truck, wrecked it, and is working on another. He hasn't done anything more on the yellow MJ. Ths was about a month ago. He posts occasionally on the old Yahoo Comanche and Strokers groups. :cheers:

I'll have to try that. But he'll probably try to eat the wrench - this guy eats more than any dog I've ever had. :cheers:

Wrong. Ron is from Louisiana. That's his yellow MJ. Marcus is Gojeep from "down under" and admins the best MJ/XJ specific site there is. Marcus has hosted Ron's MJ 2500 conversion input on his site.

If you have room for any gauge, the A/F ratio gauge is IMHO the most useful and important of all, besides the basics of course. I look at it more than the rest; gives instantaneous results of your engine performance and well-being. :cheers:

You mean use the stock oil pressure sender installed on the fuel rail Schrader valve sending to the stock oil pressure gauge? Yeah, that would work with the right adapter plumbed on the Schrader valve, since the stock oil pressure gauge reads up to 100PSI (pegged). But I don't think it's really necessary to monitor FP in the cab; a wideband air/fuel meter or a tranny temp gauge would be much more useful.

Har - you replied before I could. :D Exactly right, if I were to run a fuel pressure gauge into the dash it would be an electronic w. the sender in the engine bay. I just wanted a quick check permanent FP gauge to look at w/o going thru the hassle of hooking up an external gauge.

Look, you are probably a nice kid, work hard, and try to do your best. And I think you do. Just slow down a bit, and think out your responses before typing them out, read them over, then hit the olde submit button. You do occasionally post some great stuff, so stick to the topics you know you can contribute to and perhaps help someone, instead of just blasting out responses that mean nothing ar are just plain wrong. Rant over. :cheers: Besides, you're from NH, God's country, Live Free or Die! (I'm from VT originally :D )

Isn't there another forum you can haunt instead of replying to every single topic here? And possibly think a little bit before you do respond? And try spell checker too. :D I think you should go work on your Clamero.........

Thanks. He usually fetches the correct tools I need w/o fail, but keeps screwing up the wrench sizes. Dayemed if I can teach him the difference between SAE and metric! :nuts:

I hate you a little bit right now... :fs1: Yeah, I wish there was some way I could get some to ya Wade. :D Don't you have mulies nearby you can hunt out there? Lot's of sausage on them, much more than the runt 'Bama whitetail goats they call deer around here.

Here's a simple little mod that saves you time by enabling you to check your fuel pressure any time you want. The parts: 1.) A 0-60 PSI liquid-filled 1-1/2" fuel pressure gauge from Jegs, p/n 555-41012 2.) A brass 1/4" flare x 1/8" female NPT straight adapter fitting from here: https://www.amazon.com/Caspers-107133-Schrader-Pressure-Fitting/dp/B0056VAC42 Use teflon tape on the gauge pipe threads then snug it on the adapter: After the engine has been sitting overnight and is cold, let any fuel rail pressure off first by depressing the needle. Have a rag handy in case the fuel squirts out. Then remove the core needle from the fuel rail Schrader valve w. an extractor tool, same tool used for bicycle tires. My ever-present red-eyed helper: Screw the assembled gauge and adapter on the Schrader valve. Since it's a flare, do not use teflon tape, and do not over-tighten: Start 'er up and check for leaks. Hmmm, I'm about two PSI low:

Ain't that the truth. My bird dog was half pointer, half dalmation. Mostly black w. white spots with a bright white patch at the end of her tail. Called her Flag. She required very little training as the pointer half dominated, but she would point EVERYTHING; pheasants and quail, plus frogs, chipmonks, coons, skunks, cockroaches, even deer. :D Took awhile to break her of that, had to shoot the unwanted stuff and gently beat her over the head with it, except for the deer. :eek: She lived to be 14 years old, and is resting still in North, VA, not too far from you Pingpong. Still miss the old girl... Back on topic: My bro-in-law here has about 250 acres and shoots six or seven deer a year on his land. Makes the best dayem sausage you ever tasted. Had some this morning w. my eggs and grits, mmmmmmmmm good.

If your cab was hot after you eliminated and/or bypassed the water control valve then you have additional vacuum problems. Either the blend, panel, or floor doors are not closing or opening all the way as they should depending on the position of the climate control panel lever. There should be absolutely no difference in the cab temp with or w/o the water control valve connected when the C/C panel is set in either VENT or in A/C if the C/C system is working properly.

Exactly right! My Mom used to live out in the boonies down in Mathews county, and during the season the "hunters" would be parked out on the dirt roads pulling on their flasks and mostly hammered while the dogs ran deer. I used to bird hunt these prime areas a lot w. my dog, but made it a point to stay out of the woods when redneck deer season was on. :eek:

Dealer p/n is 83501426AC, comes with the gasket, about $12. I'd just replace it.

Power for your turn signal switch comes into the column on pin L at the connector at the base of the column. Disconnect this connector and see if you have 12V on pin L. If you do, most likely the turn signal switch is bad or the wire from the connector to the column switch is open inside the column. Pin K is the 12V supply for the emergency flashers, and is independent from the normal turn signals.

Drivetrain HP loss on my basic stroker engine (at engine vs. rear wheel dyno readings) when I installed it about four years ago was 28%. Torque loss was 26%, about average for the AW4. Of course, I've surpassed the original at engine HP/Torque readings at the rear wheel now by about 25% with various mods. :D

:thumbsup:

A straight Paypal cash transfer from you to me will be fine Taz. :cheers:

He means use two half-size 110V breakers in a standard 1" slot to free up slots for the double pole 220V compressor breaker. And Wade, if you go with the 30 gal. compressor, I'd still get one with a 220V motor and two stage compressor if you can afford it. Much more efficient.

Har! I figured you would be posting after the Steelers win. :D We're still on for next week, right Taz? :cheers: