HOrnbrod

Amen brother. :cheers:

I agree Eagle, but if anything should explode in my AW4 (probably never will), I will look at 5-speed autos to replace it with, and it will not be a 545RFE for sure. The 5-speed would be good with the stroker. :D But of course the 4.0 blocks are limited for adapters, so the choice of trannys is limited too. The Aisin A350E or A650E 5-speeds would be my first choices, and one would ASSume they would have the reliability and durability of their older cousin AW4, but I haven't really researched it well yet. What really amazed me was the drivetrain loss of the typical autos. The AW4 averages 20% - 25%, but the 4 & 545RFEs are even worse, normally over 30%, according to the dyno boys at Hesco.

Image Not Found Ain't that the truth. The only reason I go in there is to buy fishing lures. The fish don't give a dayem if what they try to eat is made in China or Bangladesh. Our local Walmart is like going to a Redneck zoo......

I can possibly understand the 545RFE because it's a 5-speed w. a lower O/D ratio for the highway but that's about it. :cheers:

Yeah, Borla headers and the 99+ intakes are not compatible. Even of you buy a new one and ask if it will fit a 99+ XJ with no problems, they lie and say it will. With the fuzzy pics it's hard to tell what you grinded off the manifold to clear. I know on the strokers forum most guys could not get enough clearance for the Borlas. Luckily I had plenty w. my Mike Leach header. I wrote to Kolak first to make sure I had enough clearance before I installed it. :D At first I modded my original p/s bracket to fit the new manifold, but didn't like it as it's a bear to get the tension right on the serp belt. It's much cleaner install and easier to adjust the belt using the 96+ p/s pump and bracket with the newer adjustable idler pulley. You can actually reuse your existing idler pulley near the A/C compressor; they're the same. And of course you have to get a new serp belt to fit the 99+ HO 4.0 XJ engines, NOT the GCs. "I have to get all new a/c pump and bracket, and alternator". Why??

That gray tank looking thing? It's the evaporative cannister. It's filled w. carbon granules that supposedly absorbs fuel vapors and recirculates them back into the intake system and is p/o the emissions system.

Thanks guys. I reused my old ones (there were four of them, one for each side of the reed plate) w. a thin coating of Pernatex copper RTV on each. Here's a pic of the new valve cover installed. I did the prep work, and a buddy powder coated it the same color as my exterior paint, with polished natural ribs. I have to clean it up some more though........ :D

Thanks for the reply. Mine came off intact, so I'll reuse them. :D

I have a question regarding the PCV vacuum "stacks" inside the valve cover. I'm changing out my valve cover, and when I removed these stacks to clean the vacuum metering valve, I noticed one cover (my new cover) had thin gaskets on each side of the reed plate, and the old one had no gaskets. Are these gaskets necessary? I can't even find them in my parts manual.

The 97s and up use a different headlamp delay module than the older ones. It's smaller and has a different connector. And I don't know if these newer XJs had the wiring built in as the older ones did.

Hey Rick, I have to chime in here. When I went to 31" tires, I immediately realized I needed to regear. I had 3.55s (have the AW4) and decided to go to to 4.11s. And I agree with the previous posters, 3.55 gears are too tall for 31" tires. They will be an improvement over your 3.07s (anything higher is an improvement), but not much of an improvement and you won't like it for long. I wanted to do the gear swap myself too. A friend has a lift, so I picked up a set of Yukon 4.11s, a master rebuild kit, and went to work. To make a long story short, the only way I could get the pinion depth correct was by reusing the crush sleeve, which was wrong. I simply could not get the new crush sleeve to crush. I also ended up reusing the same pinion shims as they seemed to be closest to right. Drove it around; the gears were quiet, but after a few miles I developed vibes between 35-50 MPH when accelerating. After eliminating EVERYTHING else (driveline angle, tranny mount, u-joints, driveshaft, tires, steering, suspension, etc. etc.), I finally realized I must have flocked up the gears. I brought it to a shop, and that was the case - I had screwed up on the preload setting, among others. And I still don't know how. I'm not ashamed to admit it, and I did learn a valuable, although expensive, lesson. NEVER AGAIN! Period. So try it yourself if you must, maybe you'll be luckier than I was. Hope so. And I highly recommend you do not use 3.55 gears. Go to 4.10/4.11 (whatever) at least. It seems to be the ideal ratio for great acceleration and fuel economy. My 2 cents Rick-man.................

In the 1997 models and up the water control valve was eliminated entirely. I junked mine also and installed a set of 1997+ heater hoses, and plugged the vacuum line. I get better heat now, no ill effects from excess heat in the cabin in summer, and the constant flow thru the heater core adds a bit more coolant volume to the system. Junk the valve James. :cheers:

Code 22 is "Coolant sensor or Circuit". It means the ECU is not seeing the correct voltage return from the sensor. This voltage varies because the sensor varies it's resistance as the coolant heats up and cools down. Check for continuity from the sensor plug back to the ECU, and check the connector itself. Sometimes the pin contacts get bent and/or corroded causing faulty resistance readings. Cycling the key 50 times does nothing for code 22, that's to clear code 12.

On my 91 HO that's the IOD (Ignition Off-Draw) connector. It connected, and loops back into the main engine harness.

The #12 code will clear after 50 key cycles if all's well.

My son did that Jeff for about nine years after he got out of the Air Force, only working for NOAA out of Tampa, not the USAF. Started out in the old reliable P3 then became crew chief on the Gulfstream IV jets NOAA uses for hurricane hunting. Although rides in the little Gulfstream got hairy once in awhile, he enjoyed it. He "retired" though last year though and got a transfer to a NOAA networking desk job; got tired of all the travel and bouncing around. :D

Here's another option: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5929

Check your axle vent tube; might be clogged and you're building up a bit of pressure when it gets hot.

I love AFBs, especially going TDY. Hands down, w/o a doubt, they have the best BOQs of any military branch. The runway is the last thing built at your typical AFB; first come the creature comforts, i.e. housing, commissary, Class 6, BEQ/BOQ, hobby shops, cable TV, MWR facilities, etc. etc. The zoomies know how to live. :D Next best is the Navy, the Army is dead last. I had the pleasure of living on post for many years at Clark AFB in the PI and Andersen AFB in Guam, as well as the non-pleasure of Army crapholes in Korea and the RMI. No comparision. :cheers:

Here ya go Wahoo........

Looks to me like the power steering pump return hose is tie-wrapped to the tierod? If so, that's insane. :nuts:

Mmmm, you speak from experience young Skywalker you do, mmm, yes my young Jedi. You know how those Cali guys are Wahoo. Nothin' but the real deal...... Must have spread to FL too.........

What is that thing Rich? A defibrillator? I mean the first pic, not the second. :D

I've repaired plenty of the cable driven speedos, but also have had no luck with the 91 and above "tamper proof" electronic speedos. You've got a stripped gear in the trip meter assembly most likely. Easiest repair is to just swap in a new speedo. The 91 and up speedos are all the same and are driven by pulses from the VSS determined by the speedo gear. It will be calibrated the same as your broken one, but of course your mileage will be different.

Why don't you mount it under the hood? :D Image Not Found