HOrnbrod

Well said. :beerhead:

You are absolutely correct stating that if you replace the 55W sealed beam units with 55W H4 bulb lamps, the load remains the same and the current draw remains the same, about 4.3 amps/per lamp assuming a 12.8V supply voltage. And the light output should be somewhat better because the halogen H4 bulb produces more candlepower (lumens) of light per watt of electrical energy than the sealed beam incandescents. This is like swapping in a pair of DOT-compliant SilverStar lamps. I tried these; they were better than stock, but not that much better. What causes problems of course with our anemic factory wiring setup is swapping in higher wattage bulbs, like maybe 100W H4s, which most guys do. The amp draw then jumps up to 7.8 amps/per lamp. And when you add to that the inherent voltage drop across the thin stock wiring and switch contacts, and sooner later something's going to fry and/or burn, which is why so many guys are frying their headlight switches. So I do agree with you mate; if you are swapping in 55W halogen lamps to replace your 55W sealed beams, you should be okay w/o making any wiring changes. But you will not get the max. candlepower your new halogen bulbs are capable of because the crappy factory wiring has too much voltage drop. And that's why I recommend using an upgraded wiring harness with relays so your new halogens can do what they are capable of. I recommend using an upgrading the wiring as the first step for better lighting, even if you keep the stock sealed beams, because they will perform much better. So we're both saying the same thing, except I feel the wiring upgrade is the single most important first step before slapping in new H4s or whatever. And it's not ladies getting thier panties in a bunch, it's just doing things the right (and safest) way, since the JeeP electrical engineers didn't do it for us. Been a pleasure discussing this with you Jeepman...... :cheers:

I have the power antenna on one side and the windshield washer w. the pumps on the other, so I replaced them. :D

Mine were the same and I replaced them with an aftermarket pair from RockAuto, $50 for both shipped. They fit pretty well too.... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1180000&parttype=823&a=FRc1180000k683371 VARIOUS MFR Part # CH1248106 {#55175009 Quality: Standard} fender liner; Left Hand Front fender inner panel, $14.69 VARIOUS MFR Part # CH1249106 {#55175008 Quality: Standard} fender liner; Right Hand Front inner panel, $14.48 Subtotal $29.17 Shipping: Ground ($17.86)3 Business Days

Wow - just saw that on the news. Looks bad. You okay Jackel? Guess you are if you're posting on the forum. :cheers:

I think they are available only through special order only Bob. :D The snow never amounts to anything near enough to need a shovel. We do get more of the freezing rain variety though, like last night. Bad stuff......

Mister Smarty Pants? Clever! Have not been called that in years. :D It's good to know you are semi-aware of Ohm's Law too. If you bothered to read my post, it's all to do with voltage drop in the distance from the battery to the headlamp load inherent in the stock headlamp wiring configuration. Power starts from the battery thru small gauge wiring to a couple of small brass switch contacts on the headlamp switch, then thru the HI/LO switch, thru more small gauge wiring to the load. All this distance adds voltage drop, and the corrosion on tie points caused by the age of our trucks compounds the voltage drop, which causes heat, burns stuff, usually switch contacts. I'm not about to waste my time getting into a pissing contest with you, instead I'll just direct you to the link below that explains it much better than I can. I really do not give a rat's butt how you wire your own lamps, I just do not like you spouting advice on this forum claiming there is no reason why you should not upgrade your factory wiring when you increase the load on the headlamp circuit. This circuit was inadequate to begin with. And that applies to ANY electrical circuit. Jeep, as all manufacturers do, designed the electrical system for economics; to power adequately the supplied load devices in the vehicle's electrical system. You increase the load, you decrease reliability of the circuit. And Beast, cut the USA vs. CAN crap. That has nothing to do w. this "debate". ;) http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

Crap Akula69, that means we'll be getting it this evening too. It's in the forecast starting after 2400 hours. Damn we've had two dustings already one about 2"! I think I'll move back up north with Mr. Wildman where it's warmer.........

Glad to hear you got your relay wiring straightened out, finally. :D

Well, slapping H4 conversion housings w. 65W H4 bulbs in w/o upgrading the stock 18AWG wiring will probably work for awhile, but it's pushing the amperage limits on the headlight switch and wiring, and it's not really not much of an improvement over the stock setup because of the voltage drop inherent in the stock headlamp circuit. I damn sure wouldn't do it. For a few bucks you can wire in a decent aftermarket headlamp harness w. relays, like the APC or make your own, and get the full voltage to your new headlights w/o voltage drop and protect your headlamp switch and stock wiring from burning up. Just adding the harness w. relays will dramatically upgrade the lumens output of the stock sealed beams. And swapping in anything over a pair of 55W H4 lamps w/o upgrading the harness and adding relays is just foolhardy and asking for eventual problems. No XJ/MJ from the factory used relays in headlamp's circuitry (all sealed beam headlamps), but the optional foglights (H3 or H4 bulbs) did use relays. Could this possibly indicate that there's a difference in the amp draw between the two? :nuts:

Yeah, be different all right since nobody knows what you're asking.............

I know, I know. Soon JT-man, it's a nice rig. :cheers:

Still sittin'. I think I've seen it moved twice in the last six months. Been meaning to get back with the guy, but haven't yet.

I doubt it Taz. The ad uses the term "restored" loosly. Just looking at the pics, it's far from a restore. It's been cleaned up, detailed, and a few new parts were added, and probably a $1000 of bondo. I think they will make about a cool 50% profit if someone pays them what they are asking. Sure won't be me....... Hell, I've got more than $4300 just in the engine. But I'm about where I want to be. That is, until the spring. :D

What plastic hose? JeepCo is talking about using an electronic gauge, i.e. the stock oil pressure gauge to measure fuel pressure. Stewart Warner makes senders that can be used for both fuel and oil applications. But in order to use a sender like the below with the stock dash gauge, you would need to know the resistance and voltage polarity outputs of the sender to determine if it is compatible with the stock MJ dash gauge. http://www.sw-performance.com/index.php?page=details&p=114875

I realize you are talking about bucket seats, but when I had the bench the upholstery was ripped only where the plaid center seat bottom was and where the seam joined the two sections. The surround vinyl was in good shape. So I removed the seat bottom and back factory skins and had an upholsterer replace just the plaid pieces w. rolled and pleated good quality cloth. Seat covers always look like, well, seat covers.

I had none of that except the receptacles for the under dash lights. But I have them all added by making my own harnesses. Sure would have been easier though if that wiring was there.......

Yeah, that should work fine JT. Seems like the long way around, but if that's what you want to do it's good! Hmmmmm, wonder why my truck never had the cargo light circuit prewired in. I could have used that for the vanity mirrors and the rear view mirror power.............

Here's a couple of pics courtesy of Ron of what he's been up to w. his ZJ pickup #2. Dana 44 and Ford 9" out of 1977 Bronco with Yukon alloy axles, 4.88 gears, OX locker and 5.2L V8. No progress on the MJ yet. :D Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Hey JT, just saw this! On my rig, wiring for the cargo light was not present, so you would have to install that. And you are correct, the interior lights are controlled by a ground applied by the NO door switches when you open the door. Instead of a separate cargo lamp switch that are nearly impossible to find, you could run two wires from the cargo lamp forward and ground one. The other wire could tie into the interior light 12V hot that is applied when you turn the headlamp switch all the way ccw. This way your interior lights will work as designed and when you rotate the headlamp switch to the ccw stops both the interior and cargo lamps will come on. I think that's what I would do. Just a thought........

The old washer bottle fits fine too if moved forward about an inch. But the whole purpose of using the new bottle inside the fender is to save space in the engine compartment. The ZJ bottle would still take up space IMHO. :D

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200314166_200314166

You can always use the Hesco relocation kit to move the CPS up front on the harmonic balancer. Easier to work on....... http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=details&inventoryID=43097&catId=

My 91 uses #55 Torx bolts for sure. I just finished putting in new seat belts.

Can't do that one here Jeff-man. The locals would never get it, and would run up your butt less than 4' trying to decypher it, unless they were wearing mirror sunglasses. KISS very much applies here............