HOrnbrod

Nope - completely missed that good pun. :doh: Brain fart.........again

Looks like it's got a little rake on it. :D

Pretty easy. Here's a short "How To", courtesy of the fabulous Mr. Wildman: Pull out the seat(s), makes it much easier. You have to take off the large B pillar plastic trim to get to the take up reel. Take off the top seat belt support/holder for the shoulder belt (#50 Torx), the interior light below that, and the plastic plug below the light, for the one screw holding the top of the trim piece. There are 3 speed nuts holding the trim to the back wall of the cab (behind the carpet pad if you have) and the B pillar should slip out. Then you take the small filler plate out where the belt goes thru, and slip the upper shoulder belt support, and the lower belt section thru the slot. Then you can remove the B pillar trim piece out of the cab. There are 2 torx screws holding the take up reel on the side of the B pillar. And of course, reassemble in the reverse order. :D

No. The 93 has the electronic speedo; your 90 is mechanically cable driven. Plus the fuel gauges are different polarities.

Pat, nothing was directed to you, snidely, sarcastically, or otherwise. It's cool, I tell it like I see it too. If I thought you were a jerk, I'd say it. Don't be paranoid. My point was I think Pete and the other mods do a great job, unpaid, on their own time. I'm sure you agree.

Not sure. But I had a torque converter lockout switch installed on my rig by Hesco when I had a dyno run done a couple of years ago, and it came in and out of O/D randomly. It was wired into the POWER/COMFORT switch at the lower steering column (column shift) and the TCU wasn't involved at all. The brake switch also had an input to this switch. I did not like it, pulled it out, and sold it. There are several ways to wire a torque converter lockout switch in; I think the best way is directly to the #2 and #3 AW4 solinoids w. a manual bypass. Don't know how your is wired; I'd suggest you take it out, go back to the original AW4 control wiring, and see what happens.

I have zero problems following the rules. :D This is a great forum and rules are necessary to continue this tradition. The moderators are doing their best to adapt the rules to be fair everyone, but of course this is impossible because of the increasing number of posters that ignore them for reasons only know to themselves, or think the rules are BS, or are too "military", and/or feel they are above the rules. I suggest we follow the moderators' guidance, respectfully offer suggestions, or quit whining.

IF the RPMs you report are correct your AW4 is never seeing O/D. And if this is a D/D you don't need a torque converter lockup switch. This switch is not a factory "installed in the harness" option in the HO harness; it's an add-on.

I just replaced both outside pillar belt assemblies with new OEM ones. The new ones lock instantly with a sharp pull; the old raggety belts I replaced did not. So I ASSume they should lock up. :cheers:

Yes, we all see all the weather damage inflicted on different parts of the country on the news every day. But when It affects you personally on your own property, it all comes home. Luckily most all turned out well in my case, all I've got is a lot of cleanup including a couple of trees that came down. Took a drive around the county today fording some roads, and saw that a lot of my neighbors were not so lucky. We had almost 12" of rain in 30 hours; very rare here. But it's still better than a tornado; those things are common here and scare the crap out of me.

Gee, I think I said that about six times above. :D

This may help: Image Not Found

Yeah, the rain quit a little after midnight and it's draining out quickly. The pier is setting on the bottom again and still solid, although there is a slight port list to it. :D

Aye, one of my favorite groups back in the day mate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxnb1syj3p0 You may remember this one better. Good therapy back then in the bad old days. 8)

I've winched the old 60's vintage Alumacraft up as far as it will go on the underwater shoreline, and it's secured so it's not going anywhere. So much for the integrity of the vintage underseat floatation tanks. Good to know for future use. :eek: The house is 20' above the lake, so we be good to go. :cheers:

Aye shipmate I did. :D The pier has broken loose from the concrete moorings I had on the stanchions and has floated to the top still secured to shoreline tree. AAAAARRRRRGH.... Least I don't have to worry about any tides. The rain be slacking off a bit now though, :bowdown:

Hey Wolfpack, you calling me a liar zoomie? In case you haven't noticed it's dark now? :eek: Anyhow, here's one I snapped ay 1630 just before it got black. Excuse the quality, didn't have my night vision camera at the ready. Water's about 2' higher now and still rainin'. :nuts:

lol. :D Got the cooler locked and loaded.

The boat is underwater, only thing visible is the top of the bench backrest rail on the pier. Still raining like a beeatch. About 6" more and water will be over the bridge getting into here. Going to be a long night.......... BUT, we do still have power and plenty of cold Miller HL. :cheers:

I keep the drain plug pulled so the boat doesn't fill up with water - didn't work this time. :hmm:

At least 12 more hours of the wet stuff coming. My pier is going to get underway......... :eek:

About 6' higher than normal and still rising. Pretty soon that island out there will be under. Damn will this rain ever stop?

Dirty, we have what's called Uninsured Motor Vehicle coverage (it's optional here, but varies state by state) and your insurance company picks up the bill if you get hit. This you better have especially in a state like mine where motor vehicle insurance is not mandatory. Your insurance company will fix your vehicle if it's not your fault, then go after the idiot that hit you. It's happened a few times to us. :headpop:

This is something I've worked a lot with in the past. It a version of cathodic protection for vehicles. Cathodic protection is used extensively on metal piers and other metallic marine infrastructure, and underground petroleum pipelines and tanks. Basically it uses a rectifier (in vehicle applications a battery) to create low amperage DC current flow (milliamps) through the metallic structure to an anode bed buried in the ground or the sea. Anode beds, usually zinc compound rods, are cabled into the circuit and have less resistance to corrosion than the protected structure, thus they oxidize (rust) and deteriorate faster than the protected structure. They are "sacrificial lambs" and must be constantly replaced to keep the DC current flow flowing and continue the cathodic protection on the structure. I used to work at POL (Petroleum, Oil, & Lubricants) piers and tank farms in the Philippines and other places (Nam) and part of my job was maintaining the cathodic protection system for underground/undersea structures. All this being said, I have no experience with vehicle cathodic protection systems, but these systems have been around for many many years and they work very well if maintained correctly. I don't see any reason why a well designed CP system could not work on a vehicle. 'Course I don't need one in 'Bama. :smart:

Maybe Pete can marry em together like he did with "Scumbags". :D