HOrnbrod

Guess he's going to mount it into his 99-01 XJ. That's what it fits.

Understand. When I said I got a 3" lift in the rear by installing new metric ton leaf packs, it was 3" over what I had before with my old springs. Suggest you do the measurement below to check exactly what you have now as compared to new stock measurements to establish a baseline. It could be you are already an inch or maybe two below stock factory measurement ride height. If you have done this already forget the above. :D COMANCHE STOCK HEIGHT Front: Measure from top of axle tube to underside of frame rail, inboard of the coil spring. Do NOT measure from the diff housing or shift motor housing. 2WD models should be 6-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 7-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". Rear: Measure the vertical distance between the top of the axle tube and the underside of the frame rail inboard of the jounce bumper. 2WD models should be 8.2" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 9.2 inches plus or minus 1/2".

New leaf packs are the best (and only) way to go IMHO. Your 20 year old springs are probably shot anyhow. New metric ton springs in stock configuration will give you about 3" of lift in the rear, plus added load capacity w/o hurting the ride. They'll settle down about 1/2" in a year or so. AALs are bandaids - might do it right the first time.

Cut it off. It'll rot off soon enough anyhow. :rotf:

The second pump is a spare. I ran wiring and fluid hose from both and capped one off under the hood. So when one burns up I can just switch over w/o pulling the fender liner out. And actually some export XJs had the leveling headlights, but they run with vacuum motors - like my old Benzs did. :D

Disagree. Try spraying polyurethane in high humidity w/o a retardent. Pure milk finish.

Sam, I think it clearly shows there are two pumps as above. But I guess you were asking about the common fuse?? JT, it pushes to the rear after you loosen the two mounting screws.

Hey Rich, I know how difficult it is to find an MJ specific camper shell for the longbed. After looking for a year and a half, I got mine by flying to PA and buying a whole truck and driving it home. Kept the camper shell, took everything off the PA 89 Pioneer I wanted, then sold it which more than paid for the trip and paint job w. a few $$ to spare. Luckily the shell was a Leer flat top unit, and I've been toying with putting a rack on top as you did. Since it's a flat top unit it should be easier. I like the looks of your rack - thanks for the ideas. How long were the rails on the XJ roof rack? 'Course, my rack will be chrome. :D Don

Any pics and/or measurements rworks? Thanks :cheers:

The hood pad insulation is not an issue. Maybe adds a pound of extra weight if that. The 97+ pads are even lighter by half and fit the same. Your problem is in the hinges. If anything an aftermarket hood would be a lighter gauge metal. Sure your rig hasn't been armored? :cheers:

Here's a pic: And here's the best (cheapest) place to get them: Rock Auto, ANCO Part # 6723 You'll have to drop the reservoir to pull out the pump as there is no room to pull it out. It's a push-in fit.

Thanks for the tips Tim. There's a bunch of original plastic around the light, been there since 1991, so I'm not really concerned about heat damage. There's a hood vent just above it too. GM mounted these on the fender well in a hotter spots and they are still hanging. :D And I am slowly changing out my incandescents for LEDs for more output w. less current draw as I find them for cheap. :cheers:

You could always do this: CLICK Here

FYI: This light does not have a mercury switch.

I had the Autopal E-code housings with an upgraded relay harness for awhile but didn't like their dispersion pattern; kept getting flashed even on low beams. And yes, they were aimed right. :D Switched to Hellas E-codes and the cutoff pattern was much sharper, and there was more usable light on the road where I needed it. I used IPF 90/60 H4 lamps in each. Frankly, I think Autopals suck.

I liked that reel-up Chebby underhood light and found a new one on Ebay for $20. Stuck it where my windshield washer tank used to be. In case you want to look for one on Ebay don't look for "Chevy or GM truck hood light" 'cause they want too much for them, look for a Hobbs light. Hobbs has been manufacturing these things forever. Image Not Found

Great story Jeff. Sounds like the Goodyear shop down here. :D What I'd like to know is how these clowns even discovered the ball joint was bad? Using the old crowbar a wiggling it? Or was it noisy?

Pat, it would sure be nice if all your pics didn't look like there's a smoke fire going on in your garage. Any way you could upgrade the pics? I'm interested in what you are doing, but it all gets lost in the pics - zero detail. A newer digital camera might be in order? :cheers:

Thanks for that link Joe. I'm still running my stock unit; sooner or later I'll need another - hopefully later. :cheers: Good to know they can be rebuilt if I can't rebuild it myself. I'll file this away. :D

I use the 23.8# @ 49 PSI Chryco gray tops in my stroker. The Ford 24# ran too rich at WOT. Most all of the common injectors are made by either Siemens or Bosch. Mercedes, BMW, GM, and Ford injectors can all be used in our engines. The important thing is to get the flow rates and fuel pressure dialed in for the optimum A/F ratio across the power band for both performance and economy.

That's what I'm asking. :hmm: Overenthusiastic moderator?

What's with the password to view the Classifieds forum?

Sounds like you have a open ground wire at the fuel pump connector. Do you have a multimeter? Check for continuity between your black ground wire and a good ground point on the frame.

:agree: The Quadrajunk carb filter is nearly useless. Put a quality inline filter in similar to what our MJs have. :cheers:

That can happen during shipping. Do not try to pull the needle off, you might damage the meter movement. Remove the gauge from the cluster, gently pry the needle back so it will just clear the post, then reattach the gauge. EDIT: Just re-read your post. You're saying the needle is off? If this is the case, fill up the tank, then gently push the needle back on so it aligns w, the FULL mark.