HOrnbrod

Pickle fork tool. Insert between the joint you want to separate, and whale it w. a BFH (BIG Flocking Hammer). :D A must have tool if your work suspension and steering.

Most likely it's the meter movement sticking, common problem. I've never seen a adj. pot go out in MJ/XJ dash gauges, though I suppose it's possible. :eek:

I used the top one (item # ZX138974T) for the LED third nrake light on my camper shell - works fine. :D

Rich, in order to install third brake light in our rigs (unless you have the towing package wiring for a trailer), you'll need to get a logic module so you can easily wire directly off the rear brakes lights. If you don't, the third brake light will flash with the turn signals. If you don't use the module, the only alternative is to wire your third brake light directly to the brake pedal switch, a PITA. The logic madules are cheap and can be had at JC Whitney's HERE.

Call Caesar the Dog Whisperer. :D

Mine popped right out using a pickle fork and a few good whacks w. a BFH.

The sun roof is hinged and opens up to two fixed positions. The cover rides up with the glass but is easily detachable in case I want to get the sunlight in. The glass is removed by pushing a button in the rear handle and sliding it off the hinges. You could always put in an electric slider sunroof but there's not much roof to work with on our MJs. :D http://products.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/A/AP1530B5H_46.html?Origin=

My timing light has a tach on it so there is no guess work when setting the timing ect. Yes, that's what I use too. It's not a calibrated standard plus or minus .001% accuracy like I used to use in the Navy Cal. Lab I spent a few years in doing avionics stuff, but it's accurate enough for our junk with our mass produced gauges. :cheers:

:thumbsup:

It is ridiculous to say the tach calibration pot should be fully left, mid-range, and/or fully right for the particular engine whatever it may be. There are too many variables caused by corrosion, sensor deterioration, voltage drops, etc. etc.. The only way to get it right is to set the dash tach pot to the same RPMs as recorded to a known correct standard, like a handheld tach. This applies to all gauges, they have to be compared to a calibrated standard gauge to be spot on. Otherwise you're just pi$$ing in the wind. :cheers:

Thanks smithe1811, but not at this time. :D

And here's mine, 15" x 30" popup by CRL. the same as Wades.

That's freekin sick and pure greed. I bought a pair NEW from Chryslerpartsdirect a couple of years ago, the 86 ones with the silver borders, for $80 total including shipping.

What do y'all think of this application? This is the way I think I'm going after I figure out what to do with the lower front fenders and flares:

That's great Rick. :D Although at times I wouldn't mind if my wife couldn't speak for awhile. Only kidding! Tell Cin that all of us are her friends here are we are pulling for her. Godspeed.

Yeah, I see what G is saying: Pre 97 Fender: Post 97 Fender I think JB is right - easiest way is to make the new FG header fit the upper fender contour.

That's what I was looking for smartazz. :D I think it would look great with the old style chrome bumper, new style chrome grill and clip. The bumper seems to fit around the corners well too. 'Course, I like chrome. :cheers:

That does look super smartazz. :D Since you have done it, and in looking closely at it, I don't see any reason why I swap out the clip and fenders and couldn't retain the original bumper and flares w/o trimming anything. Do you agree?

Thanks for the info. I think I'll get the fenders too. :D For those of you who have purchased the new fenders, do the earlier fender liners work with them, and can I retail my original flares and bumper w/o any issues?

What if I wanted to keep my old fenders, hood, headlights, and front bumper and just swap in the 97+ clip and grille? Haven't seen this done - doable?

According to my 91 FSM, the GRN lead goes to the "C" terminal on the back of the alt; this lead goes to pin 20 on the ECU and is labeled ALT OUTPUT. The GRN/RED lead goes to the alt "B" terminal and terminates at ECU pin 57 labeled AUTO SHUTDOWN SENSE. They both tie to the same point internally in the alt at the output of the diode bridge, so I can't tell which is for the stator and field. See this link: http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/presto.html

Interesting site on Police Cherokees: http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/toys/PoliceCherokees.html

If the big fuel gauge worked correctly in the original "midline" cluster (no tach), it should also work just fine in the full gauge cluster. Suspect you have a bad fuel gauge. I don't have any spare fuel gauges for the Renix years at this time, just for 1991 HOs and up.

91 and up is correct. :D

Here's the same one cheaper. I just ordered one: CLICK HERE