HOrnbrod

Got a new (to me) ZJ steering box installed today from a 95 Grand. All the 92-1/2 to 98 ZJs boxes had a quicker steering ratio than our XJ/MJ boxes (12.7:1 vs. 14.1:1). Man, it makes a world of difference with the quicker steering and is much more responsive on the road. Handles almost like a sportscar now mates. :D I'm not sure if the ZJ box is variable ratio the XJ/MJ, or fixed ratio like the YJ. But it sure feels better. Very worthwhile mod, I like it a LOT better. :cheers:

Good thread. I'm getting a consistent 15-16 MPG around town; 19-20 MPG highway cruising 65-75 MPH. Speedo corrected for 4.11 gears and 31" tires. Not bad for the stroker. The new intake manifold helped. :cheers:

Ah, I remember now about the mounts causing problems when I tried to install a rear MJ sway bar that was designed to fit the SWB. Thanks Motion for ringing my bell! :cheers:

Interesting Tim. No room to re-hole on mine w/o changing the spring mounting plates; mine are different than in your pic. That an XJ? Image Not Found

Man, NO way I can take my Leer top off and on by myself w/o help. It takes three average guys (or maybe two Bama Bubbas) to do it manually; it's about 450#. I rigged a come-along block and tackle on a cross rafter in my garage, back under it, hook up straps, and hoist it off.

Checked it again this evening - it now down to .09V. Interesting. The Aussies seem to think the higher the voltage generated by electrolysis, the more corrosion will happen in your cooling system, especially affecting aluminum radiators. I'm not sure, but it kind of makes sense, like maintaining the correct ph in your fish tank. :eek:

Glad you got 'er done JT. :D

And I'll take the last large longsleeve Taz. :cheers:

That's exactly why I went w. the OMEs. Also have new MT packs, and haul heavy pretty often. The OMes work well smoothing the ride unloaded, and really excel under load. JMHSHO. :D :D

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:agree: Yeah, looks like the load sensing valve diff cover bracket 2nd bolt hole has been sawed off 'cause it wouldn't fit on the 9-bolt cover. Then when they mounted the load sensing valve the arm was mounted 180 out. Amazing how rust and time makes everything look "original". :D

The OME N40 is actually an OME shock spec for a ZJ w. 0-2" of lift. So if it works w. a ZJ w. 0" of lift, any stock ZJ rear shock should work for an MJ w. 2"-3" lift. I worked quite awhile w. the OME engineers for the correct OME application for an MJ w. 2"-3" lift. http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/shockchart.htm

With the 9-bolt cover and shape what else could it be? :D

That will work for ya Wahoo. I have about the same lift and am using OME rears with the following specs: OME N40L (15.6"-25.8") (Actually a ZJ shock). :D

A little steeper than mine, but looks okay. I have the Tearflex shackles. Image Not Found

Yesterday I changed out the stat and hoses then filled with fresh 50/50 Prestone/distilled water mix. My voltage reading (+ in overflow tank, - to ground) is now .41V. That's higher than the before reading of .25V. In reading articles concerning coolant electrolysis this is normal when first changing out the solution until it stabilizes after a week or so. I'm going to keep my eye on this.

Do you need it? No. Just like you don't need a headliner, fender liners, the air dam under the front bumper, and a whole lot of other stuff I can't think of at the moment. Heck, you don't need a passenger's seat if you don't have a passenger. :D But if it's rotten and falling apart, replace it with the 1/4" thick molded thinner hood insulation from the 99+ XJ models instead of the older stuff that was about 3/4" think. The newer pad really does work better than the old pad; insulates the hood, protects the paint, and reduces engine noise better than the old one. The engine noise and radiated heat was much more noticible after I put the hood vents and did not reuse my hood pad. I picked up a NOS 99 pad on Ebay for $20, stuck it in and all is well. Image Not Found

Should be. Both the longer yoke and your driveshaft use the Dana 1310 ujoints, so you'll have to get a new ujoint to change the yoke. You never said (or I might have missed it) if your original driveshaft is too short or too long since you swapped trannys. Which is it? In any event though, you'll still need a new 27-spline yoke for your new tailshaft.

I've always heard that the alcohol and purines in beer, even in low levels, could trigger a gout attack. That would be freekin' horrible. Not the gout, but not being ably to drink beer. :beerhead:

Drove it all around town again today, temps ran normally and no more hose collapsing. WTF? Well, I'll pick up the new stat tomorrow and flush, replace the new parts and add new a/f. Prolly needs it anyhow - been a couple of years.

Meant open, sorry. :nuts:

Had to order a new regulation stat from the stealer and it will be here tomorrow. So I'll change that, replace the upper hose (it feels mushy even though it's fairly new), replace the cap, and the coolant. Hopefully this will correct the problem..........

Nope, no coil in the upper hose. Had an old one laying around too w. no coil either. Lower has the coil though..........

This just started yesterday after running some errands around town. Engine temperature was normal throughout. After parking the truck and it cooled down, I popped the hood to do something and noticed the upper hose was flattened end to end. I cracked the rad cap, heard some air released, then the hose went back to normal. This hose is almost new. I stuck on a spare cap I had, took a spin, and the same thing happened again after cooldown. The line from the rad cap flange to the overflow tank is unrestricted, and this is a closed cooling system. Going to pick up a new cap anyhow, but what else could cause this? Thermostat?

AAAAAAAAAAARG. Too late as usual. :D Shipmate, that looks great!