HOrnbrod

Okay, then you will have to swap out the slip yoke for a 27 spline yoke, like this one HERE. This yoke is longer than the stock yoke, so you can cut it off to the correct length if the driveshaft needs to be longer than it is now.

I just tested, readings below. With a DVM when I put the positive lead in my over flow tank submersed in coolant and ground the negative lead to block I get 0.64 Volts, ignition ON&OFF. .25V If I put one lead of DVM to radiator housing and other to block I get 0.23 Volts, ignition ON&OFF. .04V

I think stray current in the coolant is BS, but I've been wrong before. Several times in fact. :D The rad is supossedy electrically isulated; rubber hoses, rubber grommets on the lower pins, and rubber pads on the top fasteners. Mine is. If you're getting a voltage reading in your coolant, I suspect it's being backfed into the coolant from the engine block because of bad chassis/engine grounds.

Crap JT, didn't even look before I sent. Yes, I used the dash switch to apply a 12V trigger to the relay, not a ground. And no, that is NOT how it's wired from the factory; the 12V signal to the foglight switch goes thru the headlamp dimmer switch first to prevent the foglights from being ON when you have the headlamp high beams on. I chose to wire it like that so I control when the foglights are on. And yes, I'm aware this is illegal in some states, and I don't care. :D

Yes. If the display is working but dim, probably needs a new backlight bulb. They got rid of the bulb in 91 and it's much brighter.

UB right - unfortunately that harness is not there. :D

They use an LCD display, and that's what usually burns up when they fail.

Fuse okay? If so, all there is to know about clocks HERE.

So it is spline count. More splines = larger diameter shaft. Can you count the # of splines on the AX15 tailshaft? Then we can find you the correct slip yoke. :cheers:

WHY won't it work? Spline count, length, what?

Brent is correct; the Renix uses the smaller filter w. M20x1.5 metric threads. Here's a how-to w. part numbers on how to swap to the more common (and larger) SAE3/4x16 threaded filter found on 1991+ models. http://www.jpmagazine.com/howto/5421/index.html

I still think your cowl hood looks like crap Chief. Out of the goodness of my heart I will do you a great favor and take it off your hands; I'll even make the trek to Hampton Roads to do this. And give to a great hood in return! What more could you want?? (I don't think he'll buy it..........) :cheers:

Here's a pic. They were either used for a safety thing to keep the hood from blowing off in the wind or for a grounding strap. But they are pretty stout and work well to adjust the up-travel of the hood.

This is good feedback and should be heeded. It's not pleasant to learn the hard way by using dubious parts to save a few $$ and then experience premature failure and/or they don't work at all. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose, but most often you lose; at least I have by not buying parts with a proven track record. :cheers:

The wiring I'm referring is from the fog light switch (or driving light) connector tucked up behind to dash bezel out to the engine compartment only. Never seen an XJ or MJ that did not have this. Saves running yet another wire thru the firewall..........

Yes, this is how the factory wiring is, fogs only on low beam. But I'm talking about utilizing the existing fog light switch wiring in the harness present in all MJs/XJs to add fogs, instead of doing it from scratch. That's because I'm basically a lazy bastid. It's surprising how much unused wiring is present in the existing wiring harness that can be used for various options and accessories that have not been factory installed. Might as well use it.

The factory fog light switch doesn't have power to it. It's used to apply a switch a ground to trigger the fog light relay. I'll send you the wiring diagram then it'll be as clear as mud. :D Think I still have your addy somewhere......

Same here. Got a couple of 4' ratchet straps at TSC and criss-crossed them around the tire anchored to the frame.

That's correct. However, Keystone does stock the Reflexxion hood and will sell you one if you have an account with them. My local Keystone quoted $356 for one.

True, the Felpro composite gasket is expensive, but it's very forgiving, unlike the cork gaskets. I don't have a torque wrench that reads that low, so I use a 1/4" drive short ratchet w. a 10mm flex socket and just snug it up, starting from the middle and work out. Run it 50 miles or so, snug up again (usually it's the same). Recheck after another 50 miles, then eyeball for leaks after that. Done quite a few, and never had a leak. :cheers:

I just put the Redline struts on and had the same problem. You might already know this, but an easy fix is to shorten the hood cables on each side equally to limit the hood up travel so it stops about 1/2" from the wiper arm. These cables run from the firewall to the hood hinges. :cheers:

Yeah, but you would be screwed if you stroked your engine over 4.0L. :D

Yep. We had about the same last night and this morning here too. Mostly gone now though...........

Same-o. That's what I'm looking for too. :D

Well I know for sure the YJs are fixed ratio boxes. But what you posted Eagle is something I've been thinking about doing for awhile. My 91 steering box (14.1:1 ratio) has some slop and I am looking for a replacement. I am almost sure that the 90s ZJ V8 box (12.7:1 ratio) would be a direct swap. This would quicken the steering a bit and it's also beefier. Have read about the Durango and YJ box swaps, but the ratio is higher or the same (unless you get one rebuilt as you suggested). So what do you think Eagle - will the ZJ box work? I've done a lot of searching and have not found anyone who has done the ZJ box in an XJ/MJ, but the GM hot rod guys swap them all the time for the quick steering ratio.