HOrnbrod

:thumbsup:

Yes, I agree w. Taz, must be the motor itself. While you're in there also replace the linkage nylon bushings (3), they are in the Autismzone HELP! section. But in looking at another post of yours in which your brake switch connector was fried, also check the motor connector, CHROME PAINTER! :D

Ingenious! That makes you smarter than I since you figured a way. :cheers: Any chance you can post some pics of the finished product?

I have a 91 and swapped in a 95 full gauge cluster. I had to use the white case HO cluster because I have the electronic speedo, and that speedo does not mount in the Renix blue case cluster (wish it would). AND the white cluster has no provisions for mounting the column shift indicator, so I was basically screwed. Would have much preferred to keep the original indicator in my new cluster as you did but could not figure out a way to do it. So I ended up doing it like the below:

Good job and thanks for the pics. That cleared up a mystery for me; the shift indicator mount is only in the blue 1990 and below gauge cases, not the white 1991 and up case that I had to use because the electronic speedometer. The newer speedo won't mount (easily) in the white case. :cheers: Old Speedo Image Not Found New Speedo Image Not Found

I've shipped a lot of stuff via Greyhound; rollbars, bucket seats, tires/wheels, body parts (err, CAR body parts), etc. Have never had any problems, as long as you pack it reasonably well. Delivery is pretty quick too. The downside is their max weight of 75 lbs though, so no engines, diffs, etc.

Drip pans for the hood vents.

Installed the Redline Hoodlift kit today - like it a lot. Good instructions w. accurate measurements and quality parts. Image Not Found Image Not Found The only thing they don't tell you is that you have to notch out a little bit on the underhood so it doesn't touch the fender mounted strut bracket. Also you have to adjust the hood hinge cables a little tighter to stop the lift or will touch on the wiper arm. The hood goes up a lot higher now than with the old prop rod so I won't be creasing my skull anymore on the hood latch. :D Image Not Found

Yes Joe, you read it right; I read it wrong. :nuts: BTW, did you try reversing the sending unit pot wires to change the polarity input to your gauge? Don

The clusters from 1990 and below are not compatible with the 1991 and above for several reasons. One is because of the different polarity on the fuel sending unit that you have discovered, and several of the gauges are different too, the fuel gauge is one of them. You can either go to the fuel tank and swap the two sending unit wires (but the gauge will still read wrong as the sender pots are different values), or better yet, get the correct cluster from a 91-96 MJ/XJ so everything will read correctly and you'll have a working electronic speedo too. :D

:eek: :no: It's a joke Jim............ :D I just hate waxing stuff.

Just kidding James. :D Seriously, I still think you might be able to get them new, part numbers 56001354 -5 (L, R).

http://www.hesco.us/customergallery.asp?action=form&formID=1725&recordID=90227

This is true. :D

Use the regulation Ford clevis, slot it, insert ebrake cable, then adjust as required. Works well. Image Not Found

Hey David, you have far too much spare time - USAF ain't workin' you hard enough. :D Can you come up north a bit and wax out my junk? Hasn't been done in three years or so. Heck, I'll even meet you half way. :cheers:

To make sure it's the relay, lift the cover of your Power Distribution Center (PDC) and ID the Aux Fan relay by the diagram on the cover. Pull it, then swap in the adjacent relay, it's the same part number relay. If the fan still runs, the problem is elsewhere, if it doesn't, the aux fan relay is bad.

In the 1997 models and up the water control valve was eliminated entirely. I junked mine years ago and installed a set of 1997+ heater hoses, and plugged the vacuum line. I get better heat now, no ill effects from excess heat in the cabin in summer, and the constant flow thru the heater core adds a bit more coolant volume to the system. Junk the valve, just another potential source of problems. We have enough of these as it is.... :cheers:

SOLD!! For $350.00 to the man from Newnan, GA! Terms: Cash only, and includes a mint red pair in trade. Local pickup only. :D

I remember CW modded his Bilstein shock mounts. Maybe he'll chime in on this. :D

I have put one on the top of the shell. :D

Not a PITA from the cargo light location. :D PITA from the rear of a camper shell.

Good idea I think Wahoo. You could mod the cargo light with a dual filament bulb socket; use one for the original purpose and the other for the 3rd brake light. Since the cargo light is in the cab so to speak, it would be easy to run a new wire and tap off the brake pedal switch for the additional bulb filament and you wouldn't need the logic module. I have a wiring diagram in MS Power Point if you need though for the 3rd brake light. :D

Caesar's shorter than that. In fact he's shorter than most of the dogs he dominates. 8)

I think this topic belongs in the Pub. Maybe you (and me as well) too. :D :cheers: