HOrnbrod

http://jeepgarage.free.fr/OWN/drive%20belt%20routing.pdf

Dayem - got up this morning, it was 12 degrees. We are redoing a bath, and the tile cutter water recirc pump and lines were frozen solid. After two hours of pouring hot water on it, finally got water running thru and finished the tiles up today. The temp only got up to 30. I could have used your jacket today Taz-man. :cheers:

I think you mean the Panthers...the Steelers played the Titans... ;) :D Yes, that's what I meant. :D Fixed it. Thanks Taz-man.

Man, super smash-mouth football game last night in NJ. The Giants got home field advantage throughout the playoffs by knocking off the Panthers in O/T. Great game, both teams played tough. EDIT: Crap, fixed now. :oops:

No vehicle inspections? Didn't know that. You have emissions checks though right? In 'Bama there ain't no inspections of any kind. :D Lot's of junk rolling around here..........

Curious if your finger works for the Cali inspections? :D

Reality finally caught up with them Taz............

Yeah, too bad GM didn't pick Jeep up. :nuts: They probably would have junked the AMC 4.0 immediately and stuck in the anemic Isuzu four cylinder engines on the low end models. In the higher end models, they would have ressurected a TBI version of their crappy LR2 V6 engine like the 86 MJs had. If someone had to pick the Jeep nameplate up, I'd just as soon have it be Chrysler. At least they kept the MJs going until 92. Their unfortunate fatal mistake was bringing out and promoting the dayem Dakota. :(

Better batten down the hatches Pete - some hellacious rains are coming your way............. :eek:

That looks like that the Fel-Pro VS50522T gasket that works with the aluminum covers up to 1996, the one I use. They had the lip around the gasket so the grommets are not used. But I'm pretty certain you need the one with the separate grommets as above if you use the late model steel cover.

Yes, the late model steel covers will work Jeff, as long as you use the Felpro VS50458R gasket (or similar) that comes with the grommets. Should breath well too. It's good you also got the CCV hoses too. I prefer the earlier cast aluminum ones though that do not use the grommets. :D

Dayem Eagle, sounds like you're dropping the ball on preventing the nasty CT corrosion intruding in the door lock cylinders and the other inner door parts. A 30% work/non-work ration sucks..........

NEVER happens at my house, which is why my wish was for it to be over... :mad: Need more alcohol to make it remotely bearable... :ack: :agree: I start getting pissed right after Thanksgiving (and drinking even more) thinking about the upcoming "holidays", impatiently waiting for the glorious best day of the year, New Years day, officially signifying the end of the damn "holidays". Bah Humbug 2.

If "one of the wires on the solenoid started smoking" and "so i checked the fusible link that smoked" is happening, there are more basic problems than the fuel pump ballast resistor getting hot or not. You have a primary power mains problem; i.e. bad mains grounds, battery cables partially shorting out, or something that a thorough visual inspection of your primary + and - cables might just solve. Inspect your + battery cables to the starter, relay center, and whatever else might be hotwired in, and check the engine and body grounds for corrosion. I think the fuel pump problem is a a sub result of a hell of a short somewhere else since solenoid wires are smoking, fusible links are blowing, and your ignition switch went out. Or it all could have happened out because you left your rig in the Walmart parking lot. Strange things happen there because of the weird creatures that lurk in these locations......... :cheers:

99.96 dollari compreso trasporto. http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=WHS-002

Aye. Just finished my first seven MHLs, and got impatient to jump in. I get a little reckless when that happens. :eek: That's prolly what SW2 does too. 'Course them Cali boys prolly use white wine or some other girly crap to get a buzz. :beerhead: :beerhead: And yes, I'm still pissed about Bama losing to the Gators...........

Lesson Learned: NEVER let a dumb a$$ cousin (or any other relative or non-relative) dumb a$$ person drive your truck. This includes about every person I know. :D If you really want to be cheap, just swap the cylinders from the passengers side to the drivers side. :cheers:

To get back on topic Wahoo-san :D ; I just ordered a pair of the SpiderTrax WHS-002 1.25" spacers. When I put in the rear disk brakes awhile back I had to install slightly longer studs (1/4") in my rear axles to compensate for the disk brake backing plates, so I may have a little grinding to do on these for clearance. I have no idea if the bolt holes on these spacers will accomodate the longer stud. Will let y'all know how this works out shipmates. :cheers:

That's southern for resent. :cheers:

Hey Jeff, I resemble that remark. I have no such thing! Who make's 'em? :D

No, not sweatin' it, just would like the 1.5" on each side to best match the front. But probably I couldn't tell the difference anyhoo..... :D HEY! I just realized t's MILLER TIME!! I been layin' tiles all damn day and am ready!! :cheers: :cheers:

After doing some research I agree 100%. It does look like though the only vendor is SpiderTrax for the Jeep hubcentric 5x4.5 spacers, and in only one thickness, 1.25". I'd prefer some 1.5" thick hubcentrics if I could find them...........

I have looked for Ravines with a smaller BS and have not been able to find any. But I've heard good things about the billet spacers below on Ebay, $60/shipped. It would be hard to find a couple of decent wheels w. the correct BS at that price, even if they do exist. Has anyone used these particular brand spacers? CLICK Here

I was looking at the wheel stance on my MJ today. It has stock 31" BFGs and stock Ravine wheels w. 5" BS. The front tires stick out 1/4" beyond the flares, and the backs are set in 1-1/4" inside the flares due to the width of the rear end. I realize MJs were designed this way for reasons that I do not know. I am thinking of putting a pair of good quality 1" or 1-1/2" spacers on the back wheels to even the stance out with the fronts. Any reasons why this should not be done (besides the obvious use of spacers)? Seems to me it would widen the wheelbase a bit and might allow better road handing and cornering. Please correct me if I'm all wet here....... :hmm:

The fuel gauge inaccuracy is due to the difference in the resistance value of the fuel gauge sender potentiometer. This can be corrected by adding a resistor in series in the output to add resistance, or adding resistance in parallel across the pot to lower the resistance. I posted the two pot values some time ago here, but can't seem to find them now. :eek: