HOrnbrod

I'm fairly certain all Jeep OEM wheels, steel or alloy, are all hubcentric. I've had four different sets of Jeep wheels on my truck over the years, steel, Canyons, Ravines, and 10-spoke GC wheels and all were hubcentric.

Forgot: Be sure to grab the 1/4" booster to firewall alum spacer plate from the donor vehicle - keeps the booster off the firewall seam and depending if you have the auto or manual shift will allow you to use your original pedal assembly. :cheers:

Also, while they do look nice, they are not hubcentric for our Jeeps. For me this is a no-no; puts all the forces that be on the studs. I'll stick to Jeep specific hubcentric wheels. :cheers:

Tom; The four and six cylinder gas engines used the same booster/master. The only thing different is the vacuum hose. So the 95-96 dual diaphram booster/master combo from an XJ will work for you as it did for me. :cheers:

No one is offended mate - simply stated - again - so hopefully y'all can understand, this is not the correct platform for topics like this. Take it elsewhere. I'm here because I have an MJ, and enjoy give and take of discussing what this forum is all about. My MJ has no "negative or positive impact on my personal life" (althought it's frustrating at times :D ). There are plenty of forums that specialize on "healthy" topics like this one so everyone can spout their views. Do it.

Dayem, this is an MJ forum; the Pub is the Pub, but not a free license to post this crap if it's not even remotely MJ related. There are many other better suited forums in which you can post forever your views and get arguments pro/con ad nauseum, bring it there. Kill this thing please mods. :cheers:

Why? Guess I could see a need if you need to remove and reinstall the topper multiple times a month or something, but what's the lifespan? Summer sun and frigid winters would eat it up petty quick. And $600? No thanks, I prefer my hard fiberglass shell. :nuts:

One of the pulleys has to be a larger diameter. I'm thinking it's the A/C pulley. It looks a bit larger and higher up than mine. Everything else should be the same w. the possible exception of the alt pulley. But that's real good stuff, 99+ intake on a Renix.

Nor do I. :hmm: Should have worked. Guess you removed the old idler pulley and routed it as in the diagram? I don't get it mate. But anyhow, glad you got 'er done! :cheers:

The old style square blade fans are the noisest, move the least CFM of air, and draw the lowest AMP rating because the motor is smaller. The new 97+ 10 curved blade fans pull more air, but also draw more amps on startup. They are all interchangeable except for the connector. But if the square blade fan works for you and keeps everything cool, UB okay. :yes:

Yeah, keep it Mini. They are getting very popular with the old GM muscle car crowd. :D

Suggest you visit the jeep Strokers forum; http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/index.php, do a search for Titan, read and heed, then make up your own mind about their products. Realize you are asking about a rebuilt 4.0, not a stroker, but I've been running a Hesco stroker for four years now, and you get what you pay for.

Toe looks fubar, but I know you're just starting on this one. Optical illusion? Looks great, love the LWB Elims. :cheers:

Yeah - that's betta! I'm an old blues instrumental fan; love BB & Lucielle, Stevie Ray, Buddy Guy, even Clapton. And when I listened to your first YouTube, I thought hey! these should play da blues. Well, they can Jeff - sorta. But I likee............

Another reason why all XJs and MJs have a rather wide turning radius relative to their wheelbase is because of the internal stops built into their stock OEM Saginaw steering gear boxes. The box is limited by these stops to an 80 degree pitman arm arc stop-to-stop. When I swapped in a 96 ZJ steering gear box that has an 87 degree pitman arc, plus a quicker turning ratio (12.7:1 vs. 14.1:1 on the old box), I also got a much tighter turning radius. And did not have to touch the axle stop nuts. Any mid 92 - 98 ZJ box will bolt into the MJ, and it's a super upgrade and highly recommended, especially if your stock box needs to be replaced. :D

An o'scope is also useful for checking the squarewave output of speed sensors and can be used for calibrating the 91+ electronic speedometers. :D

Yes, this really hits close to home. My wife's older sister (just 52 years old), the rock of our family both here and in the Philippines, passed away this week from similar causes; her funeral was last Saturday. She got sick a month and a half ago, and was gone 45 days later. Sad day for all of us here.....

Yeah Bob. They looked great and dominated the game - up until the last four minutes. Then Brady woke up and threw two touchdown passes in a 1:16 span late in the fourth quarter. But Trent Edwards had a great game for the Bills, no fault of his. What's that now. 12 straight Pat wins over the Bills? :yes:

WELCOME BACK TOM BRADY! Wow! Super effort by the Bills too.

Welcome aboard! :cheers: While I really admire your desire to bring another MJ back from the dead, especially an HO, it's not worth the effort. Look for a nice southern MJ with a good body and blown engine or tranny, Renix or MJ, and transfer all your pristine running gear into it. You'll still save one and work a lot less hard. It sounds like that 91 is a terminal cancer victim mate.................

Just noticed you have an 89? I believe in the Renix they call it a Latch relay - maybe some of the Renix gurus will jump in. But still check the FP first so you can perhaps eliminate that. :cheers:

:agree: The factory gauges are notoriously inaccurate. Mine reads at least 70PSI all the time while running over 1500 RPM, and pegs for five minutes or so after starting. Idle is about mid-scale after warmup. Always run a Purolator Gold oversize filter. It's been doing that for about four years now w. the Hesco Hi-flow oil pump. Hooked up a mechanical gauge; it reads about 20PSI lower. So don't believe the dash gauge until checking w. a known good standard.

39PSI w. vacuum line disconnected from the regulator, 31PSI w. vacuum line connected.

I have two 1997+ 10-blade fans mounted. I load tested these fans and they pull about 16A/ea on startup and run at about 9A-10A/ea. Since I saw your post I went down and checked my fuses as it's been awhile. Both are running on 25A fuses (not 20A as I posted before UNL1MTD, so p/u 25A fuses if you have the 10-blade fan) with no problems. Also am using standard 30A relays for both w. 10AWG wiring on the load side of the relays. This is heavier wiring than stock. The smaller the fuse you can get by with the better protection you will have. :cheers:

Not to change the topic, but I likee the recessed lights in your front bumper. How'd you do that? :cheers: