HOrnbrod

Nope, Wade doesn't suck (in this case anyhow :D). He was sharp enough to jump on it when no one else did.

From my notes: Code 12 = Battery disconnected. Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles. This is applicable to your 86 MJ 2.8L dog engine, as well as the newer OBDI 91-96 engines. After a problem has gone the code will be removed after 50 on off key cycles or if the battery left disconnected over night which will cause a code 12. This means as I interpret it that the code 12 will remain until 50 ON/OFF key cycles are completed. Discoing the ECU or Batt will just continue the code 12.

:agree: X1000. :thumbsup:

Let's see. 952 MJs produced in 1992, and I'm guessing maybe 10% were Eliminators, and maybe 25% of these 95 Elims were 4WD. And your build date is right at the end of the MJ production cycle. You have a good chance of owning the last 4WD Eliminator MJ ever produced. A winter beater!! No way mate. This rare gem deserves a full and proper resto. And from the looks of it and only 112K miles, won't take much work and/or $$. Lucky bastid.............. :cheers: I admire you for jumping on it immediately too. Excellent buy.

Eagle is of course correct about the Marchals, I think the were optional up to 95 or so? Some of the early Ford Mustangs also used the same Marshal fog light. There were also similar-looking AMC available fog lights that had ROL stamped on the glass lenses. The nickname for them was Rust Out L-something (I forget); the steel housings were crapola. Marshals are still around because they are "correct" for Mustang restos, but as Eagle says, expect on paying at least $100/ea. H4 bulbs. I think the Marshal and Cibie lighting products were the only thing the French got right. :cheers:

Yes, I don't remember the p/n for the tubular bulb, but when you pull your lights, pop the bulb out and it will be stamped on the bulb. Then do a seach for LED xxxx, and there will be many options. The Porsche/VW Hellas I put in use the same bulb, and I have LED's in them. Plug and play w/o the heat. :cheers:

Hope it works for you, and do understand you're wanting to keep the originals. I did too, but the PO had replaced the stock 6W tubular bulbs with "upgraded" incandescent 15W bulbs, and the extra heat they generated on the old housings toasted/cracked the plastic copper contact holders - there was no repairing possible, only replacement. The Hella Porsche/VW lamps are just built better than the chessy French Renault originals. Just be very gentle when you clean them up. And consider junking the incandescent bulds for LED's; more light output minus the heat. :cheers:

Your cluster has to be bad then. The PC flex foil is probably damaged and/or shorted (who knows), and how can the temp gauge be at 7 o'clock unless someone removed/reset the gauge needle? Normal travel for the volt, oil, fuel, & temp gauges is roughly 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock; the gauge needle travel is limited by pins. I've got a bunch of gaugeless cluster shells complete w. foil, but I'd strongly suggest you obtain another complete cluster suitable for your year MJ and not mess with this one anymore before serious damage occurs to the dash harness and/or the fuel sending unit. :cheers:

If you can't repair your originals, here's an alternative: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5929&p=57630&hilit=porsche#p57630

Actually the front track and rear track (distance between the wheels) is the same on MJs if all four wheels are the same width. But because the rear bed fender wells are about 2" wider than the front, it looks like the front wheels stick out farther than the rear. If your front axle has shifted to the left it's most likely a lot of slop in the track bar.

Very nice work BlueXJ, but maybe you should change your name to GreenMJ? :D Glad to see you went with the chrome grille. Looks outstanding. Did you do your electric fans yet?

Understand that. :D The spindle is replacable on the 90 and below 2WDs I'm pretty sure, but on the 91-93 models it's not. I have a 91, so if the spindle goes, you need a new knuckle, it's one piece. I have to dig into the parts manuals to be sure on the 90 and below models, but I'm sure on the 91-93's. But the newer 2WD 94+ drive knuckles should fit both of the 2WD axle beams, and they show a replacable spindle. Wish I could be more helpful, but maybe someone who has actually done this can chime in.

AFAIK, based on quite a bit of research, the newer 1994+ 2WD knuckles should work fine on the older 2WD beams. I would like to do this also because it would allow the use the universal 94+ 2WD/4WD front brake rotors and calipers. BUT, since I have not done it, can't say for sure. Best place to find the knuckles of course is from a low mileage XJ at your local PnP, unless you want to go new. Why don't you give it a shot and let me know? :cheers:

You're welcome. Super group on that forum, just like here. :thumbsup: Give Jason a call here: http://www.completeautorecyclers.com/. He's a Comanche guy. They are in Brownsboro, AL, specialize in Jeeps, and usually have up to 100 XJ's and 25 or so MJ's there. They don't crush them until there's nothing left. :D Good folks, and they can ship most anywhere. :cheers:

I'm thinking he's thinking that no one on this forum would pay the price he's asking. Not saying he's asking too much, it looks like quality work, just a thought...................

You need p/n 53002907. Here's one on Ebay, CLICK HERE The illustrious Wildman prolly has one he might let go cheaper too. :cheers:

Well James, the only accurate proof of the pudding of any performance mod are before and after dyno tests. While some may think the olde butt dyno is accurate, it lies. :D Luckily I live close to Hesco, and I do a dyno test after there every major performance mod. For me, a dyno run @ $60 is worth the piece of mind. But the strokers forum is by far the best forum to post performance questions for our 4.0 engines; a fantastic knowledge base resides there and they are always willing to share the wealth. And as far as real world experience w. the UniChip, YES, ITS ABSOLUTELY WORTH IT!!! Noticed your avatar. Back in the day I did a little moto, mostly on Honda 650XRs, but getting too old for that stuff now. :yes: I just sold my old Husky 360CR 'cause that old 2-stroke was getting too dayem hard for me to start. The current project bike is an 95 MZ SilverStar w. a Rotax 500cc single (electric AND kick start) that I'm slowly converting to a pseudo cafe racer when time permits. Love the 4-stroke singles. :cheers:

CRF136N, James, your question was an excellent question. I was simply pointing you in the right direction to get a better informed answer to your question. Some of the answers you recieved were not quite right. Ask all the questions you want - none are stupid. You will get answers and advice as you asked. Sorry if my advice offended you. :dunno:

I've done quite a bit of research (and looking at them in various countries) on export XJ/MJ's to everywhere and never saw anything about D44 fronts. Do you have any additional info? Thanks. :cheers:

Thanks Fiat. :doh: The pics decieved moi.............. Awesome rig.

Beautiful pics Pete-man, thanks! Haven't done any research, but is that a blown Mopar slant six w. a ram air in the Lakeview MJ, or what? 175 MPH is a dayem good run. :cheers:

No offense, but everyone who replies on this type of thread has little or zero experience regarding performance chips. If you are serious with your question and want informed advice yea or nay, this is really not the forum to look for advice on topics like this, unless you're just phishing for basically useless advice, like " don't waste your money", backed by "expertise" of something they have read somewhere. Like someone mentioned, go to the Jeep strokers forum and get an informed analysis w. dyno results on the many performance enhancements available for the I6, then you can make an informed decision. However, I do agree w. the suggestions to do a header and other mods to a stock engine first. Performance chips will have much more effect on a built engine, even if it's only the proven bolt-on performance mods, that it will on a stocker. I have zero experience with the JET chip, but have have a little with the Unichip. If you really want to know how performance chips can help performance, check this thread: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387&hilit=unichip. While you are there, also do a search for the JET chip; there's considerable info on these too. :cheers:

Your original valve has probably been bypassed and discarded then. Look under there and see if you have two brake lines running from the combo valve under the master cylinder to the rear axel. If it's been bypassed one of the lines will be abandoned (or removed).

Yep, you got the REAL story right. :rotfl2: BTW, that tree rat looks like my Cocker Spaniel now. :shake:

Does that include the voltmeter? The voltmeter can be easily removed from the cluster by three screws and manually bench checked using a 9VDC battery. The + and - terminals are clearly marked on the gauge PC board. If the needle deflects to the right on the gauge, then somehow the input voltage polarity is reversed on the cluster. I've never seen or heard of this before. :hmm: