HOrnbrod

Yes, I'm sure he did.

Hey Pete. Bet you're drooling over that super clean Cali bed. :drool:

I've put my comments in CAPS. Front sway bar from a V8 ZJ ('97, other years?), get bushings and mounts: thicker than the MJ (1.25" vs 7/8"), better road manners in trade for off-road flex. AGREE Front coil springs from a V8 ZJ (years?) OR Up-Country XJ coils: a bit stiffer and about 1" (give or take 1/4") higher than stock, it would be a good match for the MT springs I put in the rear in both height and stiffness. AGREE ZJ (all 93-98) power steering pumps (steering gear box) (reuse MJ pitman arm) 12.7:1 vs. 14.1:1 ratio. AGREE (GEAR BOXES). GOOD MOD, DIRECT BOLT-IN. BUT THEY ARE BEING SUCKED UP FAST AS A CHEAP MOD BY THE 70's-80's GM CAR RESTORERS FOR THEIR QUICKER RATIO. GOOD IDEA TO ALSO SWAP IN A NEWER MODEL PUMP (1997+) ALONG WITH THE GEAR BOX AS THEY HAVE A HIGHER OUTPUT PRESSURE. THIS CAN BE DONE BY INSTALLING THE 99+ INTAKE MANIFOLD AND 97+ PUMP BRACKETS. ZJ pitman arm? (unknown years/models). NOT NEEDED W. YOUR LIFT. IT'S 1" LOWER THAN YOUR MJ PITMAN ARM. ZJ tierod? (unknown years/models). THE v8 ZJ TIERODS ARE A GOOD UPGRADE. V6 ARE THE SAME AS MJ. Upper control arms from a WJ ('04, other years?): tubular design, (maybe) better bushings. NOT SURE, MAYBE. HAVEN'T TRIED. :hmm: Lower control arms from a WJ ('04, other years?): tubular design, better bushings . ANY WJ IS OKAY. GOOD MOD FOR PREVENTING RUBBING W. WIDER TIRES. EXACT SAME LENGTH AS MJ LCA.

Yep, I always vote. But lately it's more of an exercise in futility as my guys seldom win anymore. :roll: About the only thing that went right in the last few elections is finally making our redneck county wet and I can buy a case of beer w/o driving 30 miles or so and paying taxes to the adjacent county. WooHoo! At least it's not all bad. :cheers:

Simple solution. Quit whining and blamimg someone else, and do something about it, or get the hell out. It's your turn.

I don't buy any aftermarket part, especially concerning suspension, steering, and/or brakes, that requires drilling into and enlarging the stock mounting points, unless of course rot has destroyed the original mount and you have no choice. If you do, you usually eliminate an essential point of return w/o a whole lot of work I really don't want to do. :cheers: And yes, Locktite, while not a complete guarantee the fastening will ever loosen and fail, does help to put the odds in your favor. :smart:

Man, I'll NEVER use United Package Smashers for shipping anything anymore. They lose stuff, they smash stuff; too many times I've been burned by these fools. They bent the frame of a set of bucket seats I shipped, they lost two out of four tires/wheels that I shipped AT THE SAME TIME, even destroyed some NOS Plymouth/Dodge upholstery pieces I shipped by using a box cutter on the container for some reason. I pack very carefully and have never had a problem with Fedex or even Greyhound. Truly a suckage maximus outfit. :mad:

Dayem, you were lucky. The axle end Joe? I just reused the original bolt w. locktite when I put my Teraflex track bar in, because you don't have to take one end off to adjust it. Or did you have to drill out the holes w. the JKS bar?

I did tell him about the CC and how interested we would be in anything MJ he had. That was over a month ago. Last thing he said was he'll check what's in the warehouse when time permits and get back. I'll shoot him another email.........

I just corresponded with Greg last month regarding an MJ-specific header and some Lund sun visors he had. He still has some MJ fiberglass body parts in his warehouse - says he will probably put them up on Ebay when he gets the time.

Yeah Rob, it's beitch to be on-call on a Friday night when everyone else is on Miller time. :bowdown: I'll have another one just for you mate. :cheers:

Just a wild guess here James750, but since you ask, I suppose the reason 87mjdriver makes it public is because he never hears any response from Pat until he does make it public? But I could be wrong.........Get real man.

The rear leaf spring mounting brackets (and the fronts) are legitimate replacement parts, but they differ between the LWB and SWB models. The p/n's are: 5500 6826 (7 Foot Box) or 5500 9170 (6 Foot Box) Have your local dealer run them and see if they are still available somewhere.

Friendly advice to you WFC. I'd forget posting up your progress status here as most of the turkeys replying have zero clue as to your ultimate build goal and what is required for your run, myself included. But if you're looking for specific MJ parts you need or resources to obtain them, we can help. If your rig isn't safety ready when your run finally happens, the Bonneville inspectors will let you know, not the jerks here who are badmouthing what you are trying to do. I'm following your build on the strokers forum; looks good so far, tremendous progress. Wish you all the best in your ambitious and expensive effort, and I applaud you for giving it a go. :cheers:

My mate Marcus has built many types of trailers down in Oz - maybe you can get some ideas HERE CW.

:agree: New 3+2 MT packs (9.5" free arch, 1680 lbs load capacity, p/n 52003676) netted me a full 3" of lift and I was exactly level w. the front using 3" OME lift coils. After a year or so the rear springs settled down about 1/2", then I put on TeraFlex 1.5" lift shackles and remain level. No SYE needed although I did use 3-degree shims to correct the pinion angle. Rides and handles better than new. :cheers:

Unless someone wired in a primitive anti-theft device. :brows:

Thanks Rob. It's actually quite easy to keep the old girl right down here when you don't have to deal with the issues y'all have to face unless you park your rig all winter. Being originally from Vermont, I know how it is. It SUCKS!! It's amazing to see the body and frame work you guys do just to keep your rigs intact. I salute you all. :cheers: :bowdown:

87Warrior, I think you may have hit the nail squarely on the head. That's exactly what I'm using on the front. New Wagner calipers from O'Reillys that came with the semi-metallic pads, and new Wagner rotors, also from O'Reillys. And yes, I think the knuckle being worn down where the pads and calipers contact the knuckle surfaces is a good possibility. I have some extra anti-rattle clips left over from when I installed Explorer rear disks that look like they may work on the front knuckle too w. a little trimming. Why the hell Jeep did not use these replaceable stainless clips to prevent wear on the knuckle as most other manufacturers do is a mystery to me. Thanks for the input mate. :cheers:

I know Rob. Different strokers for different folks. :D MJs are versatile animals and can be built to suit many purposes. That's why I love them. Maybe some day I'll convert, but right now it just seems like it would be hauling around extra weight that may hurt in my never ending quest blowing ricers away. One thing I sure am looking at next is swapping the D35 for a D44. Already snapped one axle, and it makes me hesitant to really hammer it at times........ :eek: And beaterjeep, just do what makes you happy. That's all that really matters. :cheers:

No, they did not Verne / Joe. :D Ran w. the 96 master/booster at least a year (maybe two) w/o squeeling. Actually it started shortly after I installed the SpiderTrax spacers on the rear wheels. It has me completely buffaloed, makes no sense..........

Me too. I'd dump the dealer installed "swoosh" on my 91 to install the 91-92 Elim decals, but that would be cheating and illusionary I think. Kind of like putting a cowl hood on a 4-banger, or similar. :cheers:

Calipers are brand new from Wagner Joe. New front hoses too. I looked hard for shiny spots on all the pad/knuckle/caliper mating surfaces and saw nothing. All the new stuff I put on has done absolutely nothing to get rid of the cold morning squeeling. Brakes are much better now though and most of the stuff I replaced was original, except for the rotors and pads. :D Like I said, the noise is over in a block or so, but I just want to get rid of it. It bugs me. Know what I mean Vern? :D

I'm 2WD. But I think it must be knuckle/spindle related as everything else is new. If I remember correctly, Jake (Akula69) had a knuckle problem on his 2WD, but I've forgotten what it was. Maybe he'll chime in here later...........