HOrnbrod

:thumbsup:

Sigh......... The MO threads continue forever on so many JeeP orientated forums. I'm not saying yay or nay, but who needs the hassle or BS? :nuts:

I've been burned (sic) too many times trying to save a buck w. so-called better aftermarket thermostats. This is a dealer only item forever when I need it, and it's only a few $$ more than the aftermarket junk. :cheers:

No way of telling mate. I don't like "rebuilt" or "remanufactured" parts, always buy new stuff if available, but w. our old junk, it's not always possible. Sure the vendor guarantees the part, but something like a waterpump is a major PITA if you have to swap it out 3-4 times before it's finally right. I'd rather spend the extra $$ to get a new or NOS OEM part if available and save myself the aggravation and/or possible engine damage. Hope it lasts a looooong time. :cheers:

Agree, ditch it. Saves weight too. :cheers: You can re-sell the whole autolube system to the purists why want the original parts. :D

Yes, RD350's were very fast 2-stroke twins back in the day. Still are! I had a Yamy DT400 single 2-stroke around that time. It had the infamous "Autolube" system, same as the RDs, and it crapped out on me w/o first letting me know, and locked the engine up while cruising at about 70 MPH on the steel grate across the York River bridge in VA. :eek: Hairy experience and I vowed never to get another 2-stroke. But I did of course (a 75 Husky 360CR) and just recently sold it because it was such a bear to start. Still don't like 2-strokes. :D Point of all this: DITCH the Autolube pump and mix it in the oil the old fashioned way in the tank. :cheers:

Yeah, that's a nice thing about cafe racers, you're only limited to your imagination (and pocketbook ). Here's my ideal: Street legal 660 Rotax based on a Ron Woods flat tracker. MMMmmm Simple and beautiful. :cheers:

If ya'll really wanted this MI truck you'd find a way. :D

Pete, a microwave that old ain't worth fixing. I still have the same GE model, introduced about 12 years ago. It's failed for different reasons over the years, and I replaced it three times now, same model but "improved" - four year lifespan average. Everytime it fails, I troubleshoot it, zero in on the bad part, and when I look for the part(s) I need, it costs nearly as much as I can replace the whole damn thing for (less than $100). And then you're not absolutely positive the new part will fix it. Not worth the hassle mate. The old m/w's are very power inefficient too. :cheers:

What looks like OEM MJ shackles are there in the OP's pics, left side, when you enlarge and zero in.

WSO (Wizzo)? That's what daughter #2 is looking at. :D Long way to go though, but so far so good. :cheers:

Thanks for the link - added it to my favorites. Seems like all the Rotax expertise is on the West Coast. ........... :roll: I'll be calling them tomorrow.

If you could Rob, that would be great. But I suppose you will be keeping it? And being a "methodical, picky SOB" is all good mate. Kind of reminds me of moi. :cheers:

Good score mate. Got the bed mat too, but not the tailgate cover, did not know they existed. How does it attach Rob? Available? :brows:

Good to hear from you David and glad to see you're almost over the hump and soon to be heading downhill toward your wings. F15E - impressive matey. :cheers:

All true, but the old style one piece hub/rotors are 2 to 3 times the cost of the newer rotors, and are getting harder to find, as well as the old calipers. The wheel bearings are a common size, so they will prolly always be available. Just thinking waaaay down the road it might be cost effective. Not planning on doing it, just thinking. :cheers:

Well, like I said, I had my LWB done by Line-X 5 years ago for $250. Ouch -inflation sucks. But I did not do the over the bed option. Like James said, not recommended for a new paint job. Check out Taz's post on what happened to his new paint job. Not recommended.

Well neighbor, this is like asking what's the best tire, what's the best motor oil, etc. I went with Line-X five years ago, and after much hauling of building materials year after year, still looks like new. :cheers:

Brain phart - thinking power steering pump pulley since I have been working that lately. :doh: But yeah, must be the water pump bearings. Was it a "remanufactured" pump? They are well known for being bad right out of the box, even directly from Mopar.

As a contractor or government civilian? Both Aberdeen and Yuma provide great testing and support for our troops on a variety on weapons, vehicles, personnel gear, etc. Worked at Yuma for a little while, base support though........ :USAflag:

And if you have pulses from the ECU pin A3, then do a continuity check from the connector to the #2 injector end, and twist the connector back and forth slightly while doing it. Not uncommon for the wires to break off the pin internally in the connector, especially if the connector has been removed/reinstalled several times. :eek:

Agree. Water pump pulleys can be had, but I don't think you need one if it's tight on the shaft w. no wobbles or chips out of it. You did press it on the pump shaft properly w/o the use of a BFH? :cheers: If you are sure the noise is coming from the H2O pump and it's a new one, sounds like bad bearings. NAPA should give you a replacement, si?

I used to have 2 ATK's, both Rotax powered. Amazing engines. Change out your cambelt once a year and it will run forever. BTW, in case you hadn't guessed I'm Pantera over on Thumpertalk. :wavey: Yep, seen your posts. :waving: I did check the belt and the timing with a light thru the inpections window (nice feature) and all was okay. Like to get a spare belt though. Guess Ron Woods is the best place?

Old trick that has always worked for me tracing down belt/pulley noises: Get a short piece of 1/2" or so heater hose, ram one end in your ear, start the engine, then place the other end near each pully, including the harmonic balancer. The offending pulley usually becomes very evident. :cheers:

The AW4 POWER/COMFORT switch was dumped in 1992 (although there may be some holdovers :D ). My 91 still has it. I've done several tankfuls in both positions and the POWER position netted a solid 1-2 improvement in MPG, as well as crisper shifting and less searching for 3rd/OD gears at the 2000 RPM range when going uphill. After 1992 the switch was dumped and the POWER position was hardwired into the harness.