HOrnbrod

Then use a small dab of dielectric grease on the clean contacts or they will bugger up real quickly again.

Like they say - "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder". Like the tailgate handle though with the built-in hand. :D

My new MZ is my DD when the weather's decent. If it's raining, cold, or I'm on a beer run, the MJ. :cheers:

If you do not know how something is wired, you have to trace out the wires using a continuity checker or meter. It sounds like someone picked up a hot wire from your interior lights circuit and used it to power the fogs thru a separate switch and it possibly blew a fuse. W/o tracing out the wires you can't know. I don't trust anyone's wiring, including the factory. Suggest you start from scratch and wire the fogs up correctly through a relay.

Pi$$ off mate. :cheers:

Easiest way I've found is to get a 3rd Brake light module from JC Whitney ($6), wire it in, then wire the trailer lights parallel to it's outputs. Thus no feedback and groundl oops to the normal brake/turn circuits. Beats running new wiring up to and thru the pedal brake light switch. Simulates the factory trailer light package. :cheers:

Here they are Jim: MJ rear flare retainer plates (3-pieces per side): 5500 4991, middle piece, L & R 5500 4994 forward L, rear R 5500 4995 forward R, rear L

Yeah, and you should know Pete. :D There are plenty of rust free MJ "projects" down south sitting in fields w. easily fixable mechanical issues. And Rob, I'd much rather have mechanical issues than a rust bucket w. incurable body cancer. And it's best feature is the non-original buckets? As much as it hurts to say this, and since you asked for advice, I wouldn't waste my time on it mate. :roll:

Yeah Taz, but Timmaay learned a lot, so it's all good, right? :cheers:

I used the 1999+ XJ 4.0L w. A/C belt. Remove the old idler pulley and save it for a spare; use the new P/S idler pulley to adjust the belt. Routing is like below: Forget the red "BELT TOWARD REAR" text; that's a reminder to myself since I have a 7-spline Dodge 134A alternator mounted.

I think you're missing the ground connection. You need to ground the BLK/GRY wire in the left kick panel where the TAN power wire is.

I have all the factory rear flare mounting plates; sucked them up years ago. They might still be available, but doubtful. If you need the p/n's let me know and you can have your friendly local dealership do a scan. And no, IB keepin' mine. :cheers:

Dave, I did the same several years ago, super mod. Here's an old pic I saved and might get Rob off your butt:

Got 'er done. Congrats. :cheers: Was the HB visibly wobbling under an extreem eyeball test at varying RPM, or just visible deteriorated rubber?

No, you gotta have shackles. On your 2-hole shackle, what's the measured distance between the center of the top bushing hole to each of the two lower hole centers?

Don't let these bastids talk you out of what you want to do. :clapping: The shackles you have look like the knockoff Ebay Chebby truck drop shackles (but lift shackles for an MJ). They usually don't fit right as they are wider than the stock shackles. If you want to make your rig level, either obtain a set of the original MJ shackles, or if that's still too high for your tastes, install a set of XJ shackles for another 1/2" drop. :cheers:

In my skewed way of looking at things, I was counting the leafs from the bottom up, excluding the overload that doesn't change. So #4 would be the MJ main, #3 the new XJ leaf, and so on. Guess I tend to look at things backwards? Bigger numbers for the bigger leafs. :hmm:

Aye, SUA, no lift due to leaf thickness. Mistake noted. Beat head again. :doh: XJ main length compared to MJ main 3rd leaf? The XJ main leaf would be placed in #3 order over the MJ main as #4, existing thick overload underneath w. a probably 33% load increase capacity. Sound very good. Hasn't anyone done this yet -seem to recall a previous post? Probably another dead brain cell trying to live again...........

While I'm not a big fan of AAL's, that concept should work just fine IMHO. The only lift experienced initially would be the thickness of the new XJ main until settle-in, and that's negligible. You would just need the new u-bolts. The actual added load capacity would be the unknown, but will definately be increased, and it should help handling too. Go for it! Would be a very good (and economical) way to increase the load capacity a lot of us on the forum would be interested in. :cheers:

Sorry Eagle - got ya mixed up w. the Wahoo-man's posts I guess. :doh: NO one should do that! :D Anyhow, what I stated before about the rear 2-1/2" lift after the MT pack install makes better sense after Tom's post detailing the MJ spring differences in free arch. And I measured the before and after results according to the axle-to-chassis method detailed in my FSM for 2WDs. So it worked out well.

I'm in Arab, AL. That's ĀĀĀ-rab. 'Bout three hours from you Tom. Got to get over there one day and check out your operation. :cheers:

I stand corrected Tom. :bowdown: Always though the free arch was close in all the MJ springs. So, since my originals were the 980 lb. capacity = 7.62" free arch, OEM part #89-52-002-312, 3+1 configuration base springs, and I put on the MT 1700 lb. capacity = 9.50" free arch, OEM part #89-52-003-676, 3+2 configuration, that's nearly 2" lift with the difference in free arch alone, less settling. Correct mate? Leaf springs are fascinating. :cheers:

I have the TeraFlex greasable shackles on the back too to make up for the 1/2" settling effect and even it up w. the front w. the OME 3" lift coils.

Got that right Rob. :thumbsup:

Eagle is correct by stating the free arch of all MJ springs, including the MTs, are within 1/2" of each other. When I installed my new 3+2 MT packs about four years ago I did get a full 2-1/2" of lift compared to what I had before. This was due to the saggy condition of my 980# stock springs and the extra weight of the Leer camper shell I carry around. They eventually settled down about 1/2" in a year or so, and have remained there.