HOrnbrod

If it's the OEM aux fan, they can pull about 15A on startup. I use a 20A fuse on both of mine on the load side of the relays, and have not blown one yet. :thumbsup:

Have not mate. Been thru quite a few HO clusters too.

Eagle; I have rebuilt/recalibrated all the cluster gauges, both for Renix and HO, for a long time and sold a lot of them w. no complaints. But I was completely stumped trying to roll back (or forward) the odos on the 91+ electronic speedos. They are in a tamper-proof cage, and I have managed to get the cage off w/o damage, but when trying to change the wheel lineups, I was not able to. After destroying two or three, I gave it up. I suppose it's doable, but not by me. :eek: I do have pics, but will have to dig them up.......... EDIT: Here they are... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Next step, you need to put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail schrader test port, start it up, and see if the pump maintains pressure. Then we can go from there. I'm thinking ASD relay because there's no sustained fuel pressure.

No I got mine on Ebay new for $200 so saved a few coins. :cheers:

Same here. Guess the connectors are different on the Renix. So that's good news SW2 - no new tools necessary! :cheers:

You must be good then. :D I ruined the quick disco internals trying that. :( The plastic ones are real cheap though, and you can also use them on the tranny coolant lines too. :cheers:

You need the tool for the fuel line quick disconnects, 3/8" blue size if I remember correctly. It goes around the fuel line and you shove it into the quick disconnect to open the ears and it pops off. I got an assortment of plastic ones at Napa. Look like this:

Wow, that does look good and clean in there. When I did mine I just re-torqued the rocker and head bolts, retightened the exhaust/intake manifold bolts, and just generally looked for something amiss. You could (but I didn't) pull the plugs and turn the engine over by hand and make sure the valves are all opening and closing and that the lifters are okay.

I'd also be interested in what your caster angle is. Do you have an angle finder? If so, you can take the measurement on the ball joint flat. Buddy, you have to know this stuff to make it right. :D

It was dirt. Old pic. All cleaned up now. :cheers:

Alright, I gotta ask. It's got to be an optical illusion, but it looks like in your pic that you plumbed the two master cylinder ports together! Made me look twice! :hmm: And also noticed the brake lines are squeezing right against your windshield washer tank. A good fix for that is to install the 1997+ XJ tanks inside the fender well. It leaves some room for other stuff. :thumbsup:

Snide and/or smart assed replies are no longer allowed SW2. If it happens, the thread is immediately locked. :cheers: ONLY KIDDING Pete & Eagle. :D Seriously Wade, you should pop off the valve cover and take a look-see inside. Prolly just loose rockers. Suggest using the more expensive composite valve cover gasket (Fel-pro) when buttoning it up; they're basically idiot proof.

There are four column multifunction switches for MJs; for tilt and non-tilt columns, and for intermittent and non-intermittent wipers. It's not easy replacing this switch, so I would not put a used one in there. Also, if you do not have delay wipers, now's a good time to do it. :D

There is no way to answer this definitively. Wire function will be the same on the similar circuitry, but I've seen wire color differences among the same year and models (i.e. BLK/BRN vs. BLK/GRN for the same wire, point A to point B). And there are errors in the Electrical FSMs too. So the answer to your question is no, there will be differences in wire color throughout model years. You can't depend on wire color alone w/o verifying the it's function and terminus points. :cheers:

I'm thinking corrosion. CPS terminals/connector, coil LV connections, throttle body sensors, MAP connections, etc. Cheap and easy to clean them up and retest.

Anyone check if it's throwing any codes?

See this thead: viewtopic.php?f=2&p=153929

Please conduct your business via PMs to the affected parties instead of posting here. Thank you..........

If you do, look up Jason, don't bother w. the others. Take a loooong stroll around; the MJs are everywhere, it's an organizational disaster, and see what you need. Then ignore Jason's first price(s), he'll deal with ya. :thumbsup:

I have a super PnP yard close by in Brownboro, AL. Last time I was there (last month), there were at least 15 MJ's and countless XJs to pick from. The owner is an MJ fan/owner/driver and never crushes them. It's called Complete Auto Parts, and they specialize in Jeeps.

The 99+ belt is just slightly longer than the ODB1 belt. I tried to reuse my OBDI belt and was maxed out on the tension adjustment. The 99+ belt tightens up right around mid-bolt and allows plenty and wiggle-room for future expansion. It's close to the old pulley mount, maybe 3/8" after adjusting, and have been running it now for a few thousand miles now w. no problems. BTW, this is exactly the same routing as on the 99+ XJs w. A/C. I used a Gatorback belt. HTH. :cheers: You got smog tests in GA?

Ahh, the good Doctor Wildman is still the master of search and research. :bowdown: I'd forgotten that post. Added benefits of the 3rd brake light module is that it isolates the not only the 3rd brake light from the OEM signal/brake light circuitry due to the built-in diodes, negates wiring back to the brake pedal switch, and you can also parallel the module outputs for your trailer light connector should you so desire. Simplicity maximus. :cheers:

Nice clean looking rig comanche09. Like the color too. :thumbsup: Just noticed you're in Mobile? I'm not too far north of you up in Arab. :cheers:

Yep. That's why I voted to "leave them in the box". :rotf: