HOrnbrod

When you go in gear w. the auto tranny, the hydraulic pump starts, torque converter engages, and creates a load on the engine. When you take it out of gear, the engine abruptly loses the load, and revs up a hair until the idle circuitry kicks in. Perfectly normal w. auto trannys.

They went for $231. And they were nice. :D

Dadgummit, Bill Dance is a riot. :rotf:

Well, I upgraded from 2.0 to 4.0 tonight. Had to go through 3.1 first. It's freaking great! Sites that used to lock up and take forever with scripts (Sears, Home Depot, etc.) are instantly ready now for searching. I use some German sites for the motorrads; Google translator was available for 4.0 and works much faster now. No problems with the bookmarks either. Weird though; it takes a little longer to load CC club after logging in due to the Smilies. But I'm happy with it. :cheers:

AFAIK there were only three switches available for the US MJs (exports had a rear fog light switch), Trans PWR/COMFORT, Fog Lights, & Cargo Lights. So some PO must have added something on a relay.

Most likely your fog lamp relay.

No, it's all-natural citrus acid and extracts. Harmless to paint. But it has to sit and work for awhile to be effective. It's also great to shoot a couple of squirts into your beer for a nice fruity flavor. MJeff told me about using it when he couldn't find any Bud Lime.

What the heck - give it a try. Like you say, you can always swap it out later. When I put in the ZJ box it was easy to see that the 1" drop would upset the parallel geometry w. my 3" lift, so I didn't try. Would be interested in the results. :D

I did try Firefox 3, and it was a downgrade. Slowed everything up; 2.0 performed much better than version 3 except on some utube videos that would not run on 2.0. I didn't care. Maybe I'll give 4 a try............ Later............. Much later.

Apples to oranges. Besides the stocker was using oil. Firefox 2.0 doesn't.

I'm still using Firefox 2.0. No problems. Why upgrade. If it ain't broke, why fix it?

Fight the Pitman beast. A 2" lift is not enough to warrant the use of the 1" dropped ZJ arm. It will knock your track bar and drag link out of parallel and as Correy says, you'll probably have tons of fun with bumpsteer. Mine came off pretty easy w. my 8" vice and 6' cheater bar. :yes:

Hmmm. I knew about Armstrong but not Kruk. Back on topic. Here's how I did mine: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17120&p=221911&hilit=canister#p221911

I've always thought the flat tappet cams can be used with either hydraulic or solid lifters, as compared to roller cams which of course use roller lifters. But what do I know. :dunno: Delo 400 Multigrade 15W40 is CI-4 plus and has 1480 ppm zinc. I get it here locally in 5-gal containers from an independent auto parts house here in town. Only place I've seen it, although I haven't really been looking for it all that hard.

I looked long and hard when I had the bench for a replacement because the tweed cloth sections between the vinyl was toast. There were none, So I pulled the entire seat cover and had an upholstery shop replace the cloth and reused the vinyl. Cost less than $100.

Yep, forgot about the pulley removal. It's identical to the other idler pulley also so you can use it as a spare.

The zinc in motor oil is mainly to help prevent wear on our flat tappet camshaft lobes. Rotella is a good oil, but Chrevron Delo 400 Multigrade 15W40 is CI-4 diesel engine oil plus and still has 1300 ppm zinc (Rotella has only 1000 ppm). So that's what I've been using for years. :D

Agree with that. Didn't stake mine when I installed the ZJ box 3+ years ago. I do check it now and then and it's remained properly torqued. Use some Loktite.

The Pitman arms are not the same. The ZJ arm drops about an inch lower than the XJ/MJ arm, so you'll have to use you're existing MJ Pitman arm on the new ZJ box. The quicker ratio ZJ box (12.7:1 vs. the 14.1:1 MJ box) may seem slight, but but you can really feel the difference. Much better on the road but I wouldn't want it on a wheelin' MJ. :cheers:

Ah, okay. Have used similar universal external delay units like that in the past. Didn't know AMC marketed them as a factory part though. :cheers:

To convert from manual wipers to delay you need the multifunction switch w. delay (extra wire), the stalk w. delay switch function, and the intermittent module at the harness. You lucked out jeepsouth as two of the three parts were already there. :cheers:

All the above are correct. I'm using a NOS 95 ABS booster/master I picked up for cheap on my non-ABS MJ, 95-96 ABS or non are the same.

How about w. the CC graphic? Similar to this only better fonts: Image Not Found

Here's another good link: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm

U-bolts: PM Tom @ Hellcreek. Best deal I could find for quality u-bolts. :thumbsup: