HOrnbrod

What ratio is the axle now and what ratio are you going to?

I've never seen a Goodyear Wrangler tire that wasn't square. Nearly impossible to balance and if you're lucky enough enough to get them close, 4K miles later they are out again. Never again.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/distributor-gear-83504635.html

Yes, about 1/16" up/down play is normal. There should be no side-to-side play. How's the drive gear look? If it's okay I'd say your distributor is okay.

Pull it out and inspect it.

Possible solution? http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20758&p=215400&hilit=window+seals#p215400

I suppose. As long as I have a computer for the net, a cell phone that works reliable, and a good digital camera to take pics, I'm happy. The "i" stuff will all be obsolete soon and some new craze will take over. I don't even try to keep up with the latest fads anymore. Except for MJs. :cheers:

I used the Ford brakes on the D35 years ago because the Teraflex conversion kits were cheap then. They are easily swapped over to the D44, and knowing that some day I'd get the 44 someday, I went with the Exploder disk set. Suppose I could have used ZJ brakes too, but the Fords were an easier option at the time and the cost was about the same. :cheers:

Michelin LTX A/T 2 On-/Off-Road All-Terrains. Cost more initially, but last twice as long as the rest in their class. Best buy over the long haul. :cheers:

All I can say on this topic is "Who gives a ratz azz"? Sorry, I frankly don't care. Can't understand why folk get so excited either. If they made an "i" MJ fuel filter or something, I might check it out, then would probably bash it. :cheers:

Naw Joe, I'm glad I held out for an MJ D44 in spite of the problems I had. I wanted to "keep it in the family" so to speak and never considered a Ford axle. :ack: Oh, wait! I've got Ford Exploder disk brakes on it. So much for keeping it all in the family. :doh: :agree: w. Joe.

Yep, that's an excellent price for an MJ D44 axle. I found one closeby in TN for $225 (also came with an extra Trac-Lok diff), mileage unknown, which I thought was a good buy. I had to go to 4.10 so I knew I'd have to regear BUT I wasn't counting on the bent left axle shaft, ruined axle bearings, pinion leak, right side axle leak, etc. etc. So yeah, I had the whole thing rebuilt, and the cost can add up fast. :eek: Such is life.............

Make sure they check the pinion yoke shaft for grooving/scoring where the seal rides. If it is, new seal and all, it'll probably start leaking again.

Shaft bearing(s). You can still buy the gear replacements.

I've been unsuccessful finding parts to rebuild distributors. :( You may luck out find a good used one at the yard (doubtful), or shop around and buy one new/rebuilt.

Pull the rotor a check to see if you have any side-to-side slop on the distributor shaft. The bearing may be worn out.

Get them from Tom at Hell Creek. For me it was the best deal and quality out there and included everything. :cheers:

D35 u-bolts should be 1/2" fine thread (1/2 - 20), 2-3/4" wide, and 7" long. It's best to use HI-nuts (taller nuts) for more thread engagement. Grade #8 if possible. :cheers:

Yes, both coils tested within specs according to the FSM. The FSM details a coil performance test using a test machine the dealership supposedly has. The bad MSD coil only lasted about six months. Made in China stamped on it. :fs1: You just can't beat genuine OEM parts anymore.......

Getting 1.4 ohms on the primary, 12.5K ohms on the secondary.

Sure did, a couple of times. It's dead - nothing's getting passed from the primary to the secondary windings, and both are within specs resistance-wise. There used to coil testers around at service garages, I remember using one made by Mallory at a gas station I worked at years ago. Haven't seen any lately though.....

Heading home today about 1/4 mile from the house and the MJ dies, instantly. It would crank and crank and never fire back up. I walked home, grabbed a spare coil and my meter and drove back with Mama's car. Checked for voltage to the coil, it's there. Check for spark, it's not. Swap the coil, it fires right up. Drove home and pulled out the bad coil (it's a fairly new MSD Blaster coil). The primary and secondary resistance readings are fine and there nothing externally wrong with it. I've never seem a coil go bad before and still test good. I'm snowed. :dunno: Anyone had this problem?

What year/model?

Pull your left tail lamp off and check the ground connection behind it for rust/corrosion. Your pump grounds there, as well as the relay. It's a sheet metal screw ground. Pull it apart, clean the rust off, and put it back together tightly shiny metal on shiny metal. Then use a little dielectric grease over the connection.

Lucky kittens Jeff. I'm sure they will be well taken care of. And they'll take care of y'all too. :cheers: