HOrnbrod

Rednecks completely ate up with dumbazz.

Crawl under, remove the inspection plate from the bottom of the bell housing, and check the flexplate for cracks by rotating it.

Good video Jim. Troubleshooting electrical problems is not that difficult IF you have the correct electrical diagrams for your rig. This is the emphasis and major point of the video. W/o the correct factory electrical FSM, not a generic Chiltons, Hayes, or some other junk, you're really just guessing. You can get away with troubleshooting mechanical problems usually without an FSM, but not electrical stuff as there were subtle differences throughout every year you would never find w/o the correct electrical FSM.

MJ spring specs. Figure it out. :cheers:

That's not "him". http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/Finds/FindsJeepFarm.html

Check the ignition starter switch, left side of the lower steering column. Press the switch by hand tight to the column and try to start. If not, remove and look for burnt contacts on the switch and it's connector.

Posted for Jimmy (jpnjim) in memory of Lenny: It was a year ago today that he passed. Just felt like I should bring it back to the top. :(

Of course. But I quit using hard copy maps long ago. So who needs map lights?

I had that same map light mirror mounted for awhile, but with the under-dash courtesy lights, the LED B-pillar lights, and vanity sun visors, I was overwhelmed with excess cab lighting. So I swapped out the map-light mirror with a Home Link auto-dimming rear view mirror I pulled at the yard. Much more usefull opening either garage door and/or unlocking the house entrance door. Plus the auto-dimming feature is great at night when some turkey behind you is running high beams.

I had a battery do exactly that Jim, it was about three years old. After I verified there was no parasidic amp draw, I brought it to Autismzone and they load tested it - checked satisfactory. But overnight it would go stone cold dead every time. I brought it to our local GM dealer, and they had a modern tester that did a lot more than load test. One was a timed test that lasted about 30 minutes. It tested bad. Most dealers have these high-tech testers, and they will check it for free. Worth a shot.

:yeah that: Best answer yet. Move.

That's not a bad price for a good working ECU. :cheers:

Pulse Air Feeders were used extensively on the old 4.2L AMC engines, and some of the GM V6's and carbed 2.5's. They were never used on 91 and above OBDI and OBDII systems. So if you bought an ECU (computer) for a 92 you got shafted mate.

A six cylinder stroker SCCA replica would be more cooler. :yes:

Butchershop, hopefully you're a Tide fan who lives in GA? :yes: I took the liberty of editing your Bama hit list, in RED: 1. Auburn: No problem, Auburn sucks this year. But it's the Iron Bowl - anything can happen & usually does. 2. Georgia: Will be the toughest Tide game this year. But in Atlanta, a "neutral" site. I'll be there. 3. Notre Dame: Really? Highly Doubt it. But really wouldn't mind it. Me too. Good to see them contending again. If they make it, Bama will crush them.

The retainer plate pushing against the seal is not what holds the axle in the tube. The plate or spacer thickness is critical to apply the correct load on the axle seal to prevent leaks. The axle itself is kept centered and secured in the axle tube by the pressed on axle bearing, bearing collar, and T-bolts that mate the axle housing to the bearing retainer plate. It's better and more secure than the c-clip axle retaining system used in later axles IMO.

:thumbsup:

Not a brake light, called a cargo light, and it was an option. Operated with a dash switch.

That's one way to do it. They sell them at Teraflex for cheap too.

Preload spacer for disks, or brake backing plate for drum brakes fills in the gap.

Loud is relative. Some people even like the sound of fart cans. Gibson exhaust sound clips: http://www.gibsonexhaust.com/sounds/

Kansas State Choke + Oregon Ducks Choke = Done deal. :thumbsup: ROLL TIDE!

I see that now on the OEM schematic that there were originally two 12V inputs to fan relay pin 2; one from the original radiator switch, and one from the A/C controls. Installing the additional relay as you did did not affect the A/C switched 12V. Excellent job figuring out the wiring for that additional relay. :cheers: I'll have to remember that. It's a good way to transition from switched 12VDC to switched ground and vice-versa. The HOs are completely different as they use switched grounds from the A/C and the temp sensor to turn the fan on, not switched 12V inputs since the signal goes through the ECU computer.

Okay, I can see how that will work. You're using the switched ground signal from the Autometer gauge to trigger the new relay. When the new relay latches, it applies a ground to the original fan relay pin 2 to turn on the fan. Do you have A/C?