HOrnbrod

I don't blame you. If it's working as it should, keep it. D44 D35

http://comancheclub.com/topic/34228-ranger-6040-bench-seat-installed/

Just make sure you mount them with the bell mouth facing down. I put some aftermarket horns on from a 63 Buick Electra 225 once and stupidly mounted them with the mouth up. They were LOUD! But after a rainstorm I tried them again and they sounded like a drowning cow with both HI and LO tones. Both horns were filled with H2O. Live and learn.............

Pacers were advertised as "wide bodies". Thus the ample booty. Original post edited. :yes:

There are proven medicinal benefits of weed as evidenced throughout history, but these benefits have been overshadowed by the losers who use this as an excuse only to get stoned. In one country I was in for quite some time I've seen it used to help overcome the loss of appetite of cancer patients suffer while undergoing chemotherapy. This wasn't some dime bag of street crap; it was legally prescribed to the patient by their physician. And a lot of these physicians were formally trained in the US, graduated, then went back home to practice. In quite a few instances I've seen it help and enable patients to remain strong throughout the chemo treatments and survive for many more productive years. One of those patients was a member of my wife's family. If legalized weed is used for medical applications like this, I'm all for it.

Mopacer. AMC Pacer w. 4.5L stroker engine. Seen her a few times - THE PACER is georgeous. http://mopacerc.dot5....com/page7.html

Jim, check your PMs please.

The voltmeter is a parallel connection and there is little current flow through the meter movement; no fuse required. Now if you had an ammeter like we used the old days instead of a voltmeter, it would need to be fused since it's in series with the monitored circuit.

Yeah, it's freaking over. Mostly due to the to the Rust Belt states, NY, PA, and the New England states, and of course Cali and the rest of the PAC states. Looks like a rerun of 2008. Ah well, now we have to live with it..............

Probably didn't want rabies. Nice first post here mate. Where you from?

Of course it's not like up Nawth, but in N. Bama we get 3-4 weeks at a time below freezing, ice storms, and the occasional snow that paralyzes the whole state. I don't like it cold, and don't put up with it if I don't have to. Good insulation also keeps it cooler in the summer.

In a much more important vote than that, four years ago our town went "wet" by a slim margin of twelve votes. :group beer:

What Cruiser says above is always good. What you want from your dash VM is to read correctly. It's easy to test by hooking a couple of test leads to the terminals in the back of the meter and see what it reads across a known DC voltage, such as your battery voltage as verified to a known good hand-held multimeter. Also the indicated voltage on the dash VM depends upon where the positive sensing lead is connected to. Also, the VMs changed their sensing points several times throughout the years. For instance the HOs use one of the large MAXI fuse outputs in the PDC as the VM sensing point. I changed the VM sensing lead to a common point in the PDC directly connected to the battery's positive terminal. This way I can see the actual charging voltage to the battery rather than watch the voltage drop affected by loads like fans, headlamps, etc.

Just voted, in and out in five minutes. It's pretty quick here as everyone is voting for the same guy. I think y'all smart enough to figure out who that is.

Insulated mine after finishing the wiring and before the sheetrock. Even insulated the overhead and garage doors. Even on the coldest winter days I just fire up the propane wall heater and in 30 minutes it's nice and toasty in there. Well worth doing IMO because I hate working on stuff wearing heavy clothes and freezing my azz off.

I've changed out fog lamps many times with no problems using a universal joint, extension, and socket from underneath. It's tight, but isn't hard. Pulling the bumper can be a bear if the Torx bolts are rusted badly. One time I remember just loosened them up so I could tilt the bottom of the bumper forward a bit to get a little more room.

Uh. Okay, I edited my post. Edited Joe's post too. I'm sure he will concur. :yes:

:thumbsup:

I purchased it about 1-1/2 years ago. Mine sure had the bung because after I installed it and started to fill it, coolant was leaking out of the bung plug. It wasn't tight and I didn't check it - my bad. I pulled the plug, wiped some Permatex thread sealant around it, and reinstalled. No problems. :thumbsup:

Neat! I had not seen that before either Mike. Ever seen a dual switch config panel as in Power/Comfort and Roll bar (Sport bar) lights?

For me it's a no brainer for garage lighting. When I built my garage, I wired all the overhead 6' dual fluorescent for 220V single phase, then used the wall switches to break one phase to turn them off and on. I used 220V commercial fluorescent fixtures and ballasts, as used in service stations, warehouses, etc. These are dirt cheap at salvage houses everywhere since nearly all residential lighting uses 120V fixtures and nobody buys them, although it's easy to convert existing 120V lighting by simply replacling the single pole breakers in the service box with dual pole breakers and changing the wiring in the box. And since the ballasts are 220V, the amperage needed to fire the bulbs off is roughly 1/2 that required for 120V fixtures. This means they are less sensitive to cold temperatures since they fire up quicker. Thus they are cheaper to operate, and you get nearly twice the lumens output than an equal number of 120V fixtures for the same cost. No brainer........

Super! Is the camber off, or just the pic?