HOrnbrod

Cut a section of the fuel line out along the frame rail and splice a length of 5/6 steel tubing to make the distant end long enough. Double flare each end (like a brake line), and use flare unions to connect it all back up. Single flares will work just fine too. They are more secure than the factory quick connectors.

No, got my part numbers mixed up. Did some more research and depending on the style of the accerator pedal, the cable will be either p/n 53005244 or 53003652 for the 89 2.5. 53003652 is available at O'Reillys (p/n CA8515, $25.99 Each). Suggest bringing your old cable there and comparing it.

Buy it new. http://www.quadratec.com/products/51300%2011.htm

Thanks Mike. Perfectly detailed answer as usual. :cheers:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MJ-JEEP-COMANCHE-PICKUP-ELIMINATOR-STRIPE-DECAL-2-TONE-/380472227466?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5895e9768a

:hijack: On another matter Mike regarding the left and right vinyl covers surrounding the license plate lights, how are they attached to the bumper? Bolts with nuts, or "sheet metal" screws threaded through the bumper? Gracias.

Simply put image tags before and after the complete pic address. Then your pictures comes up like so:

And that's a big difference for building a performance engine. The HO head flows better, and allows you fairly cheap bolt-on upgrades like the 99+ intake manifold and a varied selection of exhaust headers. Better suck and blow makes a stroker go.

Yes, an HO is the best candidate for a stroker. http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html

Unless you have a stroker. Even with a mild cam. :thumbsup: If you want a Jeep I-6 to sound good ... go Gibson stroke it. :yes:

Whoops. SWB. :doh: Just wanted to see who was paying attention. NOT! :yes:

Here's a 90 Eliminator longbed on Ebay. Maybe a fake. http://cgi.ebay.com/...forcev4exp=true

I don't mind people "hovering" around my truck, it does happen a bit, and enjoy talking Jeep with them. But if I came out of a store or something and saw someone writing down my VIN who's not a cop, I'd damn sure want to know why. And if he/she were a cop, I'd also want to know why, but for different reasons.

I don't name inanimate objects either. What's the point? I do however name my pets. If they move.

What are you asking? What header do I have? :hmm:

I'm assuming you would want a manual override switch in case the switched ground from the Autometer temp gauge craps out? If this is the case, Eagle's suggestion to add a switch in place of the original radiator temp switch will do nothing because it switches the 12V IGN switched supply to the relay coil. This supply is to be wired constant. You want to switch the ground signal on the other side of the relay coil, because that's what you would lose, not the constant 12V IGN switched supply. I would add an additional dash switch that would apply a ground to pin 5 of the fan relay, because if the switched ground from the gauge were to blow, you could still turn the fan on manually by applying a ground to the relay coil with the dash switch. Make sense? Also, if you have A/C, you realize that by using the switched ground from the Autometer temp gauge you are changing from a switched 12V to a switched ground to turn on the fan relay. This will cause the aux fan not to come on automatically as should when you turn the A/C on. The aux fan won't come on until the relay receives the switched ground from the gauge that is dependent on how you set the gauge trigger point.

That's correct. The fan will not run until it receives the switched ground from the Autometer temp gauge. When the ground is appplied to relay pin2 (preset by your temp setting on the gauge), the relay coil energises, closing load contacts 1 and 4, and applies a ground to the fan motor, then the fan motor runs. When (if) the coolant temp goes down, the thermostat temp sensor opens, the ground to pin 5 is removed, and the fan turns off. It's going to take time to get it all adjusted right, but should work just fine.

Double negative. He must mean DO buy a 92.

Sounds like you want to control the aux fan with the switched ground output from the new Autometer temp gauge. Where do you plan on locating the Autometer gauge temp sensor? In the radiator bung where the existing fan temp switch switch is? If so, yes it will work with the existing fan relay, you don't need another relay. Just apply a constant 12V ignition switched voltage to one of the existing fan relay coil contacts, and your Autometer switched ground signal to the other coil contact. The aux fan relay connections will stay the same. The switched ground from the new temp gauge will turn the fan on and off. That's how I control my second electric fan in my rig.

What are you trying to do? Activate the electric aux fan with a dash switch? Or with a switched ground through an Autometer gauge?

No, not according to the schematic. Pins 2 and 5 are the relay coil contacts; pins 1 and 4 are the load contacts. Since pin 5 is tied to ground, you would have to apply 12VDC to pin 2 to activate the relay. That's what the radiator temp switch does when it reaches the HI set temp.

I had one, couldn't stand the obnoxious drone. It didn't last long on my rig. I think it was caused by the 2.5" pipes all the way and the header though.

The vinyl looks decent. Why not pull the cover a bring it to a local upholstery shop and replace the interior fabric with material of your choice?

I think you can list four vehicles per year for free on Ebay. Then they sock it to you on listing fees. So what's this, the 3rd time he's listed it? Won't be seeing it for too much longer........

Fixed the link. "A factory built MJ motorhome." Must be the Spirit factory.......... Check out the rear overhang past the axle. Wonder if it's on a MT MJ chassis?