HOrnbrod

:rotfl2:

The vacuum hose goes from the front of the booster to the intake manifold? I am not sure if that is what you are asking. And ill post more pictures of how I hardlined from the MC to the valve. No, sorry - was referring to the vacuum line that passes behind the booster and in front of the firewall, it's shown in Hornbrod's pic and since there is no firewall modification with his (spacer used) the lines run pretty much as the factory intended. I'm guessing that since you didn't need to modify the firewall, that those two lines (one is steel, one is plastic) are pretty much where they were before the new XJ booster. Correct. Another good reason to use the spacer. :thumbsup:

The 1/4" spacer between the new booster and firewall locates the brake pedal at the same level it was before the conversion, and eliminates the need to bend the firewall seam for booster clearance. Recommended it to be used if you can find one.

Fortunately not. I had a lot of Volvos and Saabs in the past - all Lucas House of Darkness junk.

Vet said he would grow it back, but it may be crooked? We'll see. He has now stopped glaring at me. Maybe that's a good sign.

Gus the Cocker Spaniel was doing his usual backyard sweeping duties Sunday yesterday clearing out about 100 or so geese intent on feasting in our vegetable garden. He did his usual stellar job, but came back up the hill limping badly. His right rear tire was bleeding pretty badly. I cleaned it up the best I could and assumed he had cut his pad on a stone or something. It's happened before, and he's always just shrugged it off and continued on. Brought him to the vet this morning in the MJ as it was still bleeding and he wouldn't put any weight on it. The vet checked him out and said he had ripped out one of his claws from the pad somehow, probably making a hard right turn while his body was going left (made sense because he does have understeer), and he needed surgery. They put him under and did the work, cauterized his wound, and I took him home about two hours later. Needless to say he's in a lot of pain, he's angry, and blames me for his misery as he lays there glaring while licking his right rear tire. Of course he accepted and ate his usual hearty dinner on three legs, and every hour or so he's moving better and better. He's getting older but still thinks he's a puppy. I figure he'll be back to his yard sweeping duties in a few days, hopefully at half throttle for awhile.

You're right. He didn't. She probably saw right through his obvious ploy, as most wives do. They are all smarter than us..........

Roger that.

The thread topic is ATK 4.7 stroker. Are you referring to an ATK stroker engine? If so, was it warrantied?

Asking for opinions here for stroker options isn't the right place. Cruise the stroker forum and you'll hear that ATK, Golen, and Hesco stroker motors are junk, then hear just the opposite from a different batch of folks. If you haven't run all three for several thousands of miles, or used your own stroker recipe to built your own, you can't intelligently recommend one over the other. But as you know, the Hesco motors get the least complaints by far, except for their cost. So I'll reply based on my experience. Your stated goal "I am not going for a powerhouse motor but rather a built one that will be reliable" was the same goal I had. I read all I could, weighed the pros and cons of each, and decided on a Hesco 4.6 crate motor. This was about five years ago, when they cost less than half the price they do now. I have over 35K on it now, and it's still going strong and has caused no problems. Over time I researched which bolt-on performance upgrades actually worked, and eventually installed the mods I wanted, including the 99+ intake manifold, bored throttle body, Modified K&N FIPK intake, Mike Leach headers, dual 2.5" exhausts, Unichip, and lots of cooling and gearing modifications to get the most from the motor and add longevity. After each major mod, I'd cruise on down to Hesco and compare the before and after dyno results to be certain I was going in the right direction. Overall and over time I'm very happy with the Hesco engine and it has proven to be the right decision in my case, even though the Hesco engines were about 25% more than the competition even five years ago. Now the cost differential between Hesco motors and similarly equipped strokers from the competition is even more than 25%, and I might do things differently. From what I read on the various stroker forums, I'd consider the ATK over a Hesco strictly because of cost, but would not be interested in anything from Golen or the others. The best warranty/guarantee is one you never have to use. I've heard horror stories when Golen or ATK engine owners have requested warranty work, but not much regarding Hesco aftercare. And since you live close-by, even if you needed tech support, you won't have to go far to get it. If you can afford a Hesco engine, even in today's economy and Hesco's high prices, over time Hesco is still probably the best option. It sure was for me.

It only holds a hair over two quarts if you fill till it just runs out the filler plug. And 85w-140 will be fine if it's not limited slip.

To me, the classic "turbine" 10-spoke Jeep wheels are the best looking wheels Jeep ever produced. The bright spokes and outer machined rim contrasting with the darker silver/gray inserts between the spokes is what they should look like, especially with the stock bright/black caps. Powder coating them to a single overall color just ruins the wheel. No way would I ever do this. Just my opinion, and not trying to offend. As always, all that really matters is what you like. :thumbsup:

Wow! Had not seen that before. :bowdown: On the second thought, I don't think I want one now.

I'd like a trail rated Prius.

Crown makes them - a bit over $100 shipped. If I'm changing a flywheel and clutch disk or more and there a 50% chance (or whatever it is) I may have problems if I resurface, I'll replace it for a few extra $$ rather than deal with the aggravation. Same with everything else. Aggravation makes me aggravated.

Just quickly searching I found a couple of reasons as to "why" the FSM recommends not resurfacing the flywheel: 1. The flywheel isn't convex but it has a recessed center and if you cut the flywheel too much the flywheel bolts could hit the damper springs. It may not happen right away but as the disc wears the damper springs get closer and closer to the flywheel bolts and won't allow the clutch to disengage. and....... 2. The crown is there to reduce clutch grab and shock loading and it makes for a more gradual clutch engagement. However opinion seems to be divided about 50-50 about ill effects caused by resurfacing the flywheel. Me - I'd replace it, not resurface it.

Don't do that if you ever get castrated though. Or have a hemorrhoid operation.

Yes, the Lund visor works pretty well. About the only time I have to use the sun visors is when the sun is setting dead ahead on the horizon. Were Wink mirrors ever offered as factory equipment on a vehicle? Obviously you don't have a camper shell out back.

I had never heard of a Wink mirror until I read this topic. Assume it helps to eliminate blind spots?

Borrow or buy a fuel pressure gauge, hook it up on the fuel rail Schraeder valve port, start engine and check to see if your regulator is even functioning. You should have 31 PSI with the vacuum plugged in, 39 PSI w/o.

Did this running hot start when you swapped in the AW4? Or before?

I scrolled Wahoo - there was an Apache p/u or two listed with 8 miles. Would kill for one of thise. But with all the pub, prices will be crazy. Worse than Barrett Jackson. Whoever engineered this mysterious auction is either a genius marketeer or a great used car salesman.

I could very well learn to tolerate IFS on a daily driver.

No way would I use wheels like that on any roads with other vehicle traffic. They used to sell these universal wheels for utility trailers back in the day. I suppose you could run them off-road only so the only person you hurt will be yourself. Can you post a pic of these things? From the inner side to see if they are hub-centric? And if so, which hub are they concentric to? Bad idea mate............ Oh, and lol. :shake:

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