HOrnbrod

The temp sensor can't ground tied inline on a rubber coolant hose. You need to thread the sensor into an all metal location tied to ground.

Good fix! :thumbsup: I've never seen non-continuity happen through the steering shaft u-joints. This is how horn grounding happens in most any vehicle with a column horn button.

All temp sensors have to be grounded or they will not function. A single wire temp sensor (I suspect this is what you have) is grounded by the sensor body threads. Did you install it with a "T" fitting on the tranny coolant return line? Use Teflon tape or similar? Sometimes this can kill the ground. Verify the sensor ground by checking the resistance of the sensor body to a good ground point, like the engine block or the neg battery cable terminal. The tranny coolant lines have nylon quick connectors on each end - not a very reliable ground. The best location IMO for a tranny temp sensor is a bung hole in the tranny pan.

The AW4 robs about 25%-30% of the HP to the rear wheels. With the intake/exhaust/fuel/ignition systems mods and the Unichip, I've eliminated that loss and then some from the original engine dyno readings on the rack. It's nice to have a baseline to work from to see how much performance improvement (or degradation) the modifications you make actually do. I'd be very interested to see the numbers on your engine before then after supercharging. Hesco does a good job running a dyno test. They take it up all the way past the HP peak, like 6000 RPM or so. Several times, after making FP, MAP, and Unichip adjustments. It scared the hell out of me the first time. :eek: So far so good with the JKU. We have about 11K on it now, it's running great, and we haven't heard the dreaded ticking noise from either the right or left side. 10K-12K is normally when the head issues have been showing as far as I can tell. It looks like the head issues were mostly cleaned up by the mid 2012 vehicle year. Our is a late 2012 model. :crossfingers:

Good choice on the Ravine wheels. Me likee. :thumbsup: To dress up the two front center hubs, you can pick up a pair of these: http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-2485-Chrome-Dust/dp/B000CMD5BM The 1.790" diameter is close to correct for the 2WD MJ dust caps. I had them on my rig when I had the Ravine wheels. They are a little loose w/o a shim; I simply cut out a 1/4" strip of aluminum from a beer can, formed it around the edge of the cap, then tapped them in. Better than painting the old rusty dust caps.

Image stolen from Jimoshel. :yes:

Replace your O2 sensor.

Nothing else except a vacuum leak can cause the HVAC system to default to the defrost vents when the engine is under load. The usual culprit is a worn or broken vacuum hose where it passes through the right front bulkhead under the battery to the vacuum reservoir behind the front bumper. Or the reservoir itself could also have a bad check valve, or a leak. The fix is to move the reservoir into the engine compartment, replacing it if bad (link below), or run new rubber vacuum lines out to the cannister replacing the rotten original plastic lines. This may or may not cure your lack of power under load issue, but I would get the HVAC system fixed first. http://comancheclub.com/topic/16154-vacuum-reservoir-relocation/?hl=porsche

No axle code in the VIN. 99% of MJs with the AW4 have a 3.55 ratio. Only sure way to tell is pull the cover and divide the # of pinion teeth into the # of ring gear teeth. Should be 39T ring gear & 11T pinion.

How do you know? Ever had it dynoed? I have. I want more too. Didn't realize it was way back in 08 after the 09 intake manifold and Unichip install. You can see how everything jumped up from the previous run. The BLUE lines are torque, Red is HP. Peak HP is at 4400RPM. The PURPLE O2x100 lines is A/F ratio.

Excess armor and lead stacks? :dunno:

New bolt and tabnut from the dealer when ready: 34202463, Nut, Retainer, $2.80 34202640, Bolt, $7.14

Consistent 21-22 MPG highway with the stroker @ 75MPH / 2700RPM, 4.10 & 31" tars. Better than the 18/19 highway pre-stroker. But it's de-balanced out by an abysmal 13/14 MPG around town, maybe 75% of my driving. Gotta fool with the FP regulator and Unichip again to find the best balance.....

Tires - Tars Grill - Grille Manual - Manuel Metal - Mettle

It disappeared in 1992. 91 models still had the switch. Not available.

To add to this, the rear flares from both 2DR and 4DR XJs are identical. How did this 2DR XJ rear flare misinformation start? To the OP, understand your intentions were good making this post, and there's some good info there. No one is picking on you; just making sure the information is factual. :thumbsup:

I've had both OME and Bilstein 5100 shocks. I junked the Bilsteins after 2K miles because they rode like a buckboard. Went back to OMEs - happy now. Hope you like the Bilsteins. :thumbsup:

Not a build thread per se. This is about it on CC: http://comancheclub.com/topic/35463-vortec-powered-mj/?hl=scott

Been doing that for years. On Ebay too.

A lot of people are flat-out lazy, and stupid too. And since Comanche is an uncommon word it just compounds the problem.

I'm with Johnny. Sometimes you find super deals for MJs because Comanche is misspelled. Comanche isn't a real popular word with the general population, unless they're aware Jeep actually made a Comanche vehicle or they are familiar with the various native American tribes. Most people are not in either case. Wonder how many people can spell the Paiute or Kumeyaay tribal names correctly..........

Their rubber ones do the same. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36873-bd-motor-mounts-rubber-or-poly/?hl=brown+dog&do=findComment&comment=370263 I went with OEM Mopar mounts.

If it's blue with a molded elbow fitting it's probably the vacuum line to the coolant water valve located in-line with your heater hoses. But you didn't provide any info of what year/model/engine you have.

Mileage on my 2012 JKU with the 3.6 isn't great, about 22 MPG average. My MJ gets almost the same on the highway (21) but is horrendous around town (13 max). But the MJ will blow the doors off the JK at a stop light. Of course we're talking about an almost 5500 lb. vehicle vs. a 3000 lb vehicle with a stroker. And the JK is one of the few vehicles less aerodynamic the the MJ/XJ. The 3.6 Pentastar in an MJ if the electronics issue could be overcome (it could) would be freaking awesome. The 3.6 with it's alloy block weighs in at 383 lbs. The 4.0 weighs 515. It would be a hell of a swap performance-wise. MPG in a lightweight MJ would increase at least 25%. Would love to see someone do it.