HOrnbrod

What year?? https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=c40904cfda278a46&id=C40904CFDA278A46!115

It does sound like the switch is misaligned. The alignment procedure is in the link below, about half way down: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/90-4-0l-won't-start-after-tilting-steering-wheel-36223/

:agree: I pull the plugs randomly and regularly to read. Throughout the years I've tried the Iridiums, NGKs, and others. Nothing gives a more consistent plug pattern the the standard Champion copper cores. The only thing I've changed is to drop down one heat range with the stroker due to the slightly hotter coil and the Unichip I have. The Champions give the best plug pattern and A/F ratio throughout the RPM range. Nothing else I've tried work as well. EDIT after reading the above. The only alloy head manufactured you can get for our I6 engines is from Hesco. For $2K. They recommend using the copper core Champions with Permatex silver grade anti-seize. Air-cooled engines are not a problem with MJs, so who cares? (Obligatory multiple exclamation points)

We all have the same heater core and the supply comes in at the top, from the thermostat nipple. I doubt it makes any difference, but that's how it is.

The image below is from the 1997 XJ parts manual. It shows how the heater hoses are supposed to be run w/o the water control valve. The supply hose goes to the top fitting on the heater core. Eliminating the water control valve is what we are emulating, si?

This is the way they should go. I used the molded heater hoses and there's only one way to install them. But I don't think it makes any difference except change the coolant flow direction through the heater core.

Keep us posted Jim...i remember someone a while back who, iirc, got a company to make some, but needed several confirmed orders to start. My mj wasnt even running at the time, but wish i would've got in on that. don't even remember how it turned out, actually. Yes, I remember that. I think it was Bo (shelbyluvv). As it usually works here, everyone was rah-rah to do it then when commitment time came down, utter silence. Maybe Bo can fill in the blanks.

True on fewer turns lock-to-lock. But the ZJ box internal travel stops are tighter than the XJ/MJ box. 38deg 45min travel for the ZJ steering gear vs. 40deg 30min for the XJ/MJ. Less * on the total travel arc = less rubbing.

Water pump comments? It looks fine and is stamped R on the impeller vane for the correct ccw rotation looking at it from the front. You haven't changed any pulleys recently on the serp belt drive to change the rotation RPM of the H20 pump have you? You're not getting enough flow through the system for whatever undetermined reason at higher RPM as you know Charlie. There's alway the option of a Hesco High-Flow pump. Expensive option, but it seems like you have exhausted every other possibility.

I sure hope he parks it in the winter. That little MJ is in for a hella culture shock going from Nevada to the Great White North. :eek:

Stock height and no spacers? looks awesome by the way :thumbsup: Thanks. The pic above is with a 2.5" lift, but I also ran the Ravines before lifting it, and no spacers up front. I did have the quick ratio ZJ steering box fitted which has less turns lock-to-lock. It just barely rubbed for me when cranking the wheel fully into the stops. The WJ LCAs stopped that, and with their bigger bushings made the front end tighter too.

Stock height and no spacers? looks awesome by the way :thumbsup: Thanks. The pic above is with a 2.5" lift, but I also ran the Ravines before lifting it, and no spacers up front. I did have the quick ratio ZJ steering box fitted which has less turns lock-to-lock. It just barely rubbed for me when cranking the wheel fully into the stops.

What's the HF IR gun read at the temp gauge sensor at the rear of the head?

I used to run Ravines and they would rub slightly with 31" tires at almost full lock. Wasn't bad though. After swapping in the WJ LCAs, no more rubbing at all.

Kudos on a great job Ryan. :clapping:

Some questions to the OP: You swapped from stock ~27" tires to 30" tires. Have you installed the correct speedometer gear based on your new tire diameter and rear axle gear ratio? How are you calculating your MPG? By dividing the gallons used between fill-ups into the total odometer mileage? If you haven't installed the correct speedo gear, the odometer results will be skewed. First thing you should do (if you haven't already) is get everything calibrated, then check actual speed and mileage against GPS if you can. Establish a valid MPG baseline and work from there. Your mileage might not be as bad as you think.

This place HERE says they have p/n 83504415. Maybe, maybe not. It's worth a shot to email them if you can't come up with a used one.

I added a larger reservoir when I installed cruise, but probably didn't have to. I had the stock ball tank, not the football.

can't help with the XJ weight distro, but here are the rear leaf specs: http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Jeep_Cherokee_s/1953.htm

Here's an option: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoFlareExtensions.htm

:thumbsup:

Crackable too.

Thanks for the response. The firm cutoff line on the Ecode Hella H4 housings is one of the things I really like. Good to hear the LEDs might be similar. I for one and I'm sure many other members would love to see real world comparison pics between the H4s and the LEDs. Personally not interested in the HIDs. Thanks again. :thumbsup:

I think he took it wrong. :yes:

That's all good to know, but this thread concerns the HVAC system vacuum reservoir, not the emissions system charcoal cannister.