HOrnbrod

Well, the OP is from SC so maybe it's not too bad. :thumbsup:

Just get a piggyback Unichip. Then you can map the IAT, CPS, TPS, and MAP signals any way you want them to match your engine. .

Several folks have done the 1997 and up dash swap by swapping in the OBD2 harness, PCM, and sensors. Lots of work for little gain IMO, unless you just have to have the newer dash.

Do that, then also make sure the linkage rod has a full 90* bend at both the outside and inside actuators. Might even try 91* to apply more leverage.

Ah, okay. There's enough weight there to last her quite awhile. Try pulling all the lead off and re-advertise with new pics. Might help? Si?

I would think there's not a whole lot of love out there for chrome 20" rims with hammered on wheel weights.............

Check where the track bar mount on the frame side. Sounds like the mount might be wallowed out or even the bracket bolts are loose. If all is well, then check the steering gear box bolts for tightness.

There was a HD 2-row radiator option for the HOs for sure, and most of the exports sported that radiator. No 3-rows ever that I know of from the factory. The 2-row HD radiator also had plastic side tanks.

Must be dealer take-offs. :yes: Last week I picked up a new front and rear JK bumper with the silver inserts and fog lights, a steering stabilizer, rear spare tire holder, and stock JK shocks from Rustys for $125. It's just a matter of time until the wife runs into something. :brows:

The valving, or "stiffness" spec is not provided in the Monroe specs. But based on the weight difference of the two vehicles, it's safe to assume the JK stock shocks would be somewhat stiffer than the MJ stock shocks. But not to the extent that say an HD Bilstein 5100 series shock would be. I have both an MJ and JK, and think they will be just fine.

So am I. More "senior" to you I imagine. Here's the site: http://www.monroe.com/en-US/catalog/ Here's the results: 2011 Rubicon, Unlimited Rubicon, Front, Reflex Monotube Shock, 911536 2011 Rubicon, Unlimited Rubicon, Rear, Reflex Monotube Shock, 911539 1990 Comanche, Front, Sensa-Trac Light Truck Shock, 37083 1990 Comanche, Rear; Sensa-Trac Light Truck Shock, 37029 911536, Compressed Length 14.020", Extended Length 21.930" Mounting is correct 911539, Compressed Length 14.760", Extended Length 23.150" Mounting is correct, remove bar pin 37083, Compressed Length 13.250", Extended Length 21.125" 37029, Compressed Length 14.375", Extended Length 23.000" Based on this, the 2011 Rubicon shocks will work just fine on a non-modified MJ. If you need any help interpreting the data, let me know.

If you reboot and it's still pops (obviously it is) it could be loaded as a startup program. Try this: Click on the START button, then RUN, then type in MSCONFIG. Click on the STARTUP tab and look to see if anything is labeled FLV, then disable it and reboot. Also check the SERVICES tab while you're in MSCONFIG for anything labeled FLV and disable it. If there's nothing there in the MSCONFIG window, go to Control Panel / Uninstall A Program. Look through the list for a program called "DealPly". If you see it, uninstall it.

Yeah, looks like the little front coming up from the south will slide by just east of Huntsville. It's losing steam too.

Might be good to wait a bit. The humidity is pretty up there today, like 75%. Rain coming too........

Jim, Norton sucks. Try downloading Malwarebytes (free edition), update it, then do a full scan on your hard drive. It's a great malware program and has removed everything that I've come across for years. http://www.malwarebytes.org/

Look it up yourself on the Monroe shock site. The tables on the site list stock shock lengths and mounting details for both vehicles. Pretty simple Old man.

Axle tube diameters: XJ/MJ D35: 2.62" XJ/MJ D44: 2.75" TJ D44: 2.62" Chrysler 8.25: 3.00" Ford 8.8: ?.??" xj D44 axle tube is around 2.75 in dia. and the 35 was somwhere around 2.62

Probably not. When I saw your quick response to my "Wanted" request I got all excited hoping you had one. :cry: Oh well, if I can't find one I go ahead and relocate the shifter to the floor console.

Figure it's worth a shot. Stupidly I sold mine years ago. :doh:

As long as it was worth it to you, in the long run, that's all that matters. How old are you now? I'm 25 now. In hind sight, I should have been a little more savvy with my money back then. I certainly wouldn't go and spend that much on a horn now lol. No sweat. All of us have made expensive impulse purchases we may have regretted later. And you really never outgrow it. :yes:

As long as it was worth it to you, in the long run, that's all that matters. How old are you now?

Caddy horns are silent compared to the Buick Electra 225 horns. Different animal. The 225 used 6" all-steel horns made by Sparton. Very loud electric horn.

Hopefully these motors were not used for endurance testing on the stand.

Yeah, uh, unbelievable. :hmm: In fact I don't believe it. A much cheaper solution w/o buying air horns is to troll the yard or look on Ebay for an original HI/LO horn set from a 1965 or thereabouts Buick Electra 225 land yacht. These horns when wired in using a 30A relay for each sound louder than a NYC bus. The Electra 225 horns were the loudest of the time before noise pollution was even concept.

:hmm: