HOrnbrod

You heard wrong. No worries - yet. Manziel is like a little rat scurrying around so far. We'll get him...........

Even if your MJ did not receive fog lamps from the factory, the wiring from the dash out to the 10-pin connector located of the left front bulkhead is already there. All you have to do is add a stock ON/OFF switch in the dash, plug the existing connector behind the right dash switch plate to it, then pickup the IGN switched 12V at pin 10 of the 10-pin connector. Use this switched 12V to trigger the first relay on Skidoo's wiring diagram. The factory fog lamp dash-to-front bulkhead wiring is already there - why not use it.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/26645-hornbrod-has-97-doors/?hl=doors&do=findComment&comment=274851

A clogged condenser would most likely cause an air flow through the radiator problem, not a coolant flow problem. That should cause overheating while idling in traffic more than going up hills at speed. In any event it should be cleaned, and I hope it does the trick. Let us know how it does bro. Also, since I don't remember reading this, do you know which speedometer gear you have installed? For 31" tires w. 3.07 gears you should have a 27T long shaft gear in there, p/n J3212727.

Some time in ancient Athens! Then the Romans perfected it by eliminating the opposition violently. Political advancement has been that way ever since except by utilizing more subtle methods. Fully protected of course by the rules and regulations in place at the time.

If the "breather" was clogged, assuming carnuck is referring to the CCV orifice elbow in the rear valve cover, the first place oil would blow is into the air cleaner. I've always had high oil pressure too, about the same as airspeed referred to in a previous post, and don't have any leaks. Well, maybe a bit at the RMS, but don't we all. OP, check to see if your 86 distributor has the shaft o-ring seal first. I'm not sure the 86 2.5 dizzy has one, and am curious to know.

You can order the fittings at the link below also. Ace Hardware has turned to crap now. http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part_family.php?id=8

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm

Lol. No, I was doing some housekeeping on the site and accidentally deleted my own post. :doh: Good to hear from you - don't stay away so long. And yes, I'd start with the obligatory new plugs, cap, and rotor, and eyeball the plugs carefully for rich running and uniformity on the color on all plugs. Probably need 'em anyhow. Take care Wahoo.

I did. The load on the alternator doesn't depend on the alternator RPM, but the load on the alternator sure as hell increases as you increase the amperage draw on the system. A heavy load makes the alternator pulley work a LOT harder. And that's when that minimal contact patch probably won't cut it. Oh. Then maybe Oyaji should have quoted you above, not me. :yes: Speaking about alternator RPM Eagle, when you get a chance could you measure the diameter of the stock alternator pulley on your late model XJ with the Denso alternator? I think the 7-rib pulley I'm using on my 136A ZJ V8 alternator is bigger than the 6-rib XJ pulley. Thanks.

There is a seal (o-ring) on the distributor shaft, p/n 33004595, about $6.00. To get to it you need to pull the distributor, then the drive gear, slide the shaft out, and replace the o-ring. When I rebuilt my spare distributor I replaced this seal. BUT, according to my parts manuals, this o-ring was not used until the 87 models. I think this may be just an error in the 81-86 parts manual since the 86/87 2.5's used the same distributor. Before springing for a new distributor, pull your old one and see if the o-ring is on the shaft. This may be all you need.

That would be the best swap Jim. The 97 harness has no wiring provisions for an AW4 TCU. And since it's an OBD2 system, swapping in the 93 ZJ OBD1 harness would be a PITA. As far as the 42RLE interchanging with the bad 42RE, I have no idea. This link may have some info on the tranny swap. If it does not, it's interesting reading anyhow: http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/showthread.php?t=4740

Yes.

The load on the pulley does not change with regard to alternator RPM, because the voltage regulator determines load regardless of RPM. Therefore whereas high alternator RPM does not help, higher engine RPM would increase linear belt speed and would thereby reduce slippage. What does matter is the size of the contact patch between belt and pulley as well as the linear speed of the belt, and since linear speed of the belt is determined by the driving pulley and not the driven one, alternator RPM is immaterial. In this case a larger alternator pulley would offer a larger contact patch and thus reduce slippage... but then the alternator would be working itself harder to provide the same charge rate at less RPM (thus bad for the alternator). Who said anything about alternator load? Belt wrap is the subject.

30% belt wrap around the OD of a pulley is the minimum for a serpentine belt. And since the alt pullley is so small (a little over 2" in dia) it spins at a high RPM. It's a bad angle on the pic, but that doesn't look like 30% belt wrap.

Yep, and they sell as fast as they can turn them out. Plus they hold their value as well as any US vehicle there is. Why do you suppose that is? I guess everyone who can afford a new JK and buys one is either crazy and/or stupid.

Funny you should mention that Eagle. This is not my truck, but a guy I know on the NAXJA forum. I asked him the same thing about the alternator when I was looking at ways to reroute my belt with the 01 intake manifold and 97 steering pump. He said it's not a problem.

Like the below? Yes, I think you would have to grind off the nub on the timing chain cover where the timing marks are. Depends on what cover you have though.

A little Dremel grinding is required on a corner of the alternator bracket and some metal above the 0* timing mark for belt clearance.

You can use a 6 rib x 2045mm serpentine belt (Bando 6PK2045 or equivalent) and route it this way:

Why do you "feel" like you are running rich? Your plugs say no. You have no clue as to what your actual MPG is, you have no baseline established because your fuel gauge is fubar, your speedo gear is not correct, and you have not checked the odo and speedometer against a calibrated known standard like GPS or even a local cop. Until you know what you have, the parts you are randomly throwing in mean nothing until you can verify an improvement based an accurate baseline.

It already is. Look at Cruiser's signature.

Down here in 'Bama, nobody worries about hitting a deer as most are just slightly larger than a standard poodle. The feral pigs are a different story however.

Look at the title. Please guys, edit your profile signature detailing exactly what your ride is. Use the drop-down menu on your username (upper RH corner) -> My Settings -> Signature. You'll get better answers to your questions. Like cpa tim did. :thumbsup: