HOrnbrod

The end plates are definitely shaped and drilled differently on the Drawtite 75014 hitch. Image Not Found

Amazing! I thought those things dry rotted instantly when exposed to air. Thanks for the pics. :cheers:

Woo-hoo! Someone referenced my build! :rock on: Okay, my ten seconds of fame is over. :roll: :nuts: And a fine build it is. :cheers:

Mike, do those lights say Hella on the lens perchance?

Google? What's that? :shake:

Pretty hard. http://comancheclub.com/topic/39492-the-truly-custom-86-mj-custom/

Jim, the Drawtite hitch you bought (p/n 75014) was designed for the 86 MJ longbeds. When the 87's came out with the shortbed MJs, the design was changed and the Drawtite hitch p/n changed to 75021. The 75021 fits both long and short bed models. I have the 75021 on my 91 longbed, and used the spacers that came with it. Looking at pics between the two models, you can see that the side plates are cut very differently. I'm guessing there are some differences between the 86 LWB and later model LWB rear frames, or Drawtite simply changed the design to accommodate both models. :dunno:

The AMC M23 is the FSJ version of the M20 used in AMC cars, CJ's, etc. It is stronger and does not have the 2-peice shafts like the M20. They have flanged shafts and are 6 lug.

I love Yoda.......... Image Not Found

I had mine made by Tom Woods. Excellent work, great reputation, and not outrageously expensive. You must provide the dimensions you need from u-joint to u-joint cntr's. http://www.4xshaft.com/

If Bo says this happens, then it does. However I have placed many orders there and all went well. :dunno:

http://teamcherokee.com/front-arm-rest-mounting-plastic-metal-retainer-4-pc-set-oem-cherokee-comanche-1984-1996/

Where's the push rod? Was the rocker arm nut loose?

Are you located in Canada? That would explain the shipping discrepancy.

Call the thread "Widely believed false MJ statements", or "BS Comanche false facts", or something.

You can get the Bosch 69302 much cheaper than Napa's price. For instance Amazon or Rock Auto.........

^^ Those statements are all true, not false or untrue. :hmm:

If you do, be sure to do a good writeup with lots of pics for the DIY forum. :thumbsup: I'll be doing the same if/when my Bosch pump goes belly-up.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Fuel-Pump-Electric-In-Tank-Type-OEM-Equivalent/_/R-BSA69302_0416976150

This hole? That in-line block heater / circulator pump is slick. I've never seen one before. Easier install too the the freeze plug type. Here's a radiator hose in-line:

http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Digital-Power-Programmable-Switch/dp/B008999RYY

When the timer turns on, it's + output goes goes to one of the coils pins of a NO (Normally Open) AC relay. The other coil pin is hardwired to the - side of the timer. Then the relay load contacts close, and pass the hot AC line from the outlet to the heater. The neutral side of the AC outlet is hardwired to the heater. Easy peazy. :yes: Just your everyday relay circuit turning on a load.

Just use a cheap timer to trigger the coil side of an AC relay. Use the relay load terminals inline with the AC hot wire going from the outlet to the block heater.

If you live in Western Maryland why do you need a block heater? A 50/50 antifreeze mix is all you need to prevent freezing. But with that said, a warm engine does save the strain on the batteries & starter when the temps go down below freezing. And the engine warms up much quicker and you'll have heat & defrosters almost immediately.

Mopar 82201506 http://www.amazon.com/Cherokee-Engine-Heater-Mopar-82201506/dp/B007NPL3OM Download Installation Guide HERE