HOrnbrod

The only rev limiter you need is your right foot.

^^^ Agree. If the 91 has been "beat to gel" as you say, get under it and really go over the unibody, frame, and suspension components. Sheet metal is easy to replace; repairing undercarriage problems isn't. And if you do decide to repair the 91, please lose the stupid front bumper and light bar on the hood. That stuff is okay on a Renix, but not an HO. :thumbsup:

Factory Service Manual. You can download it here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/

You need to invest in an 88 electrical FSM...........

http://tomasz.korwel.net/2006/12/19/replacing-ignition-distributor-in-jeeps-40l-engines/

How do you know? Ever look at them using an A/F meter over varied conditions?

The "703's" are optimal according to my A/F meter for my stroker engine also. I run them at 49/39 psi.

I put a 136A alternator in years ago and it required no cutting or grinding on the bracket. It was tight getting it to squeeze in, but it fit. Others have reported slight bracket grinding was required; mine didn't. And the plastic piece doesn't need any trimming; just needs to be reclocked. That will be obvious when you reconnect the wiring harness to the new alternator. The "fast idle" option switch applies a ground to ECU pin 30 on the HOs. You can't do it with the 91 and 92 4.0 models, as ECU pin 30 doesn't exist on these models. Might work if you swap in a 93 or up ECU or open up and modify the stock ECU.

Good troubleshooting article for 2.5 TBI HERE. I'd start with a fuel pressure test with engine running.

Carb or TBI? Can't tell in your pic.

For what??

Pretty confident? :rotf: Buy it or don't. I say don't. Eventually you'll find a complete shell for far less than $500.

I put one of these FFD radiators in almost eight years ago. Haven't run hot since. I used to use Modine radiators. They used to be one of the best you could buy. Now all they make (or have some foreign outfit make) for our trucks is a $100 aluminum single core unit with plastic side tanks. Probably a C.R.A.P. too. :shake:

http://ffdynamics.com/products/jeep-cherokee-aluminum-radiator

:thumbsup: Too bad Chrysler didn't make a FSM set for the XJ/MJ vehicles only instead of having to wade through all the 91 YJ and SJ stuff I don't need. Learning to navigate the FSM's takes some time, but it's a lot better than doing guesswork without them.

That's about the average price for a set, although quite often they go under $50.

CSF. Chinese Substandard Fabrications.........

I'm skeptical of that 4-6 hour install time, but i'm also not the worlds most competent tech so heh, still a cool looking kit though. Yep, I think it could easily double that time, especially since for the side mount you have to pull the intake manifold and hardwire the controller into the ECU harness.

Idiot light clusters have different flex circuit boards than the 4-gauge and 6-gauge clusters, and the foils are not interchangeable unless the part numbers match. I have a stack of foil circuit boards left over but unfortunately all are for HO clusters. The blue housings for the various types of Renix era clusters all carry different p/n's, and I don't know if they are interchangeable or not. Bridging torn foil traces for repair is quite easy using short pieces of ~22AWG or lower stranded copper wire. Just tin each wire end, scrape the varnish off both sides of the foil break down to the copper using an Exacto (sp?) knife, then solder the wire bridge across the break.

Invest in a Factory Service Manual set. Best friend you will ever have.

No, I don't have an LED replacement guide. I used the trial and error method and really didn't have many errors. Just stay away from the cheap "off-shore" LED junk. I used the Superbright site for most all of the LED stuff.

I talked to him and he said the drivers side floor was toast. Said he's had it for three years but doesn't know it's original history. And the paint is original. It's pretty close - I may slide up there and eyeball it.

How much boost do you think will happen when everything's hooked up and tuned? Maybe 5-6 psi? I'm looking at THIS kit - no hood cutting. And only $3K. :ack: The wife will kill me, but that's nothing new. :yes: