HOrnbrod

According to the factory parts manual, the 91-96 4.0 MJs/XJs all used the same FP regulator on the rail. P/n 53030001. Looks like the in-tank units started in 1997.

The Banks header collector end bolts directly to the stock MJ exhaust pipe.

Yup. Ignored too Renix kludge-guy. :yes: Have a good day.

^^ Not yup because that's not the best way. It's another kludge. For great balanced braking on an MJ with a rear disk brake conversion and upgraded master/booster, retain the properly adjusted (key words here) LSV and the front distribution-only block. The LSV does all the portioning as originally designed and still functions as a LOAD sensing valve to regulate rear brake biasing. My Comanche stops way better under all conditions than you can imagine.

Crap - just noticed you have an 87 2.5. Probably a TBI (Throttle Body Injection) model? Or is it carbed? Someone else will have to chime in on how to check the fuel pressure on those........

The small black tube with the elbow on it that connects to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, below left side in the pic.

crumbscomanche, it sure would be nice if you could cut down the size of the pics you post. Takes forever to load them on my crappy DSL connection.

Rent a test gauge from Autozone or similar and check the fuel pressure w. vacuum and w/o vacuum while running.

Unmolested HO (91 and 92) Eliminators are quite rare so that truck, looking at the condition it's in, is definitely worth restoring back to original stock condition. You are a world-class thief grabbing it for $400. :yes: http://car-part.com/ is a great way to search the junkyards in your area to find the parts you need.

Those fuse boxes are some of the worst I've seen. Electrical connections must be clean, bright, and tight to reliable pass current w/o voltage loss and/or intermittent circuit interruptions. The fuse box in the cab looks too far gone to clean up, and the PDC under the hood looks like it spent some time underwater in the Gulf. That's probably why the PO had bastard circuits running all over to bypass the rotten terminals in the fuse boxes. Major PITA, but to do it right they should both be replaced by splicing in clean replacement boxes from a donor, preferably a 91 XJ/MJ, so you could just match up the wire colors. Or better yet replace the complete harnesses, pull out all the foreign wiring, and start from scratch.

I definitely wouldn't try to shorten the 2WD driveshaft. It is double walled with a rubber sheath inside. When I tried to have mine shorted the shop couldn't balance it because the rubber had deteriorated over the years and was moving around inside. The XJ driveshaft should be fine since it will be shortened by the AX-15/NP242 combo install, even though it's on a LWB truck. It will handle anything the stock 4.0 can give it.

Boar Customs also built this monstrosity. They seem to have a problem with vehicle proportioning.

Maybe his wife is a BUFF?

Start by pulling and checking (with a meter) all the fuses in both the PDC under the hood first, then the fuse block.

Yes, exactly. It reduced the prep costs and the truck will still be used for light duty work so didn't want to spend the money on paint only to have it get scratched up immediately. Had a bedliner but got rid of it when I got my rollbar. I did the same after mine was painted. Also put an MJ rubber mat on the bed floor. The bed still looks like new many years later.

Sounds like the vapor canister or the tank vent(s) may be clogged. Try disconnecting the line going to the fuel tank at the canister in the engine bay while running and see if the hissing goes away.

Going to Line-X or similar the bed?

Take charge! :yes: I've had a WD 2TB external for years that I use for backup.....

Greedy stupid bastid. I'd bet their revenue would quadruple if they had charged a more reasonable $99.

I'll grab my die grinder and a few carbide bits from work. Should make short work of that. Thanks for the tip! A 1/2" countersink bit would do the job too.

^^ This. When I did my 99 intake install I chamfered the two dowel holes a little bit with a large drill so the dowels can slide in easier. Worked well.

.....unless you use the meter ground lead on the connector ground wire, not a close-by piece of metal.

Sounds like your new intake is sucking air. Try capping off all the vacuum ports. Throttle body butterfly closing?

Code 54, bad sync sensor - there's your problem. It's the round disk directly under the distributor cap on your 95. P/n 56027023. Pick up a genuine Mopar if possible. Also check it's harness for broken wires and/or connector for bent pins.

Check for fault codes? Also, unplug the ECU 60-pin connector. Check for any bent / recessed pins, and clean both the male and female connectors w. contact cleaner. Reconnect and try again.