ratrapp

i did the valve cover upgrade and it cut my blowby down by over 50%,maybe more.plus now more crappy valve cover leaking.it's an upgrade well worth doing.

alot of people use stock 19lb 5.0 mustang injectors.on a side note i replaced my injetors one at time as they went out and even the stock borg warner injectors i got from advance auto has the newer style 4 hole nozzle.i'll be honest that aside from fixing a fuel leak,there was no increase in fuel economy or hp.it is cheaper to buy 8 ford motorsports than buy 6 new ones from advance auto.

got the local welding shop to tig it.cost $45,ouch, but it's going back together now.

they won't give you anymore hp or mpg but the price of 8 new ford injectors is pretty cheap compared to other ones.

if it can't be fixed tomorrow then i'll take it.it's my only running vehicle at the time as the mustang and nova aren't quite roadworthy yet.

i've found them online used for $15 plus shipping.trying to find one close so my truck won't be down very long.already got old one off,may have to try and get it welded up maybe.

looking for someone close that has a 4.0 timing chain cover.my balancer wore a hole in mine.

exactly.it's really hard to take used gears and swap them into another housing and not disturb the wear pattern.it can be done,but it is so much easier to swap the whole housing.my 35 rear axle has 180k miles on it and i replaced one wheel seal and bearing.i don't wheel the truck but when 4 wheel is needed it doesn't let me down.for normal use the 35 is a fine axle.

i've got the reflex liner in my truck.the body shop beside our shop does them.he usually charges $400 but he does mine for $250.definitly better than if i had done it myself.

more than likely the switch on the bottom of the column.my 88 mustang did this to me a few years ago.i had to hold the switch and drive home about 4 miles.what made it worse was it was a stick shift and i used 2nd gear to limp home.

the shop i work in we use either raybestos or wagner but i personally use cheaper brake pads on my truck.cheap brake pads will last along time depending on driving habits.even the most expensive pads will be short lived with a brake riding or slam and go driver.

i did something backwards.i used a 99-up intake on a renix block with a ho head but kept the renix style exhaust manifold.it bolted up but within 3 weeks it blew the exhaust gasket completely out of the rear of the head where the ports don't line up correctly.i switched to a ho style atp header and a new downpipe a few months ago and all is well.you may get lucky and it doesn't blow out gaskets but some of us didn't.

that borgeson looks like a nice piece but for my truck i can buy 2 of the stock style crown pieces and last a long time.i really don't wheel my truck unless it's you count the snow so a stocker should work fine.

i believe next friday i'll bite the bullet and order one.

my little brother took the rear speaker assembly out of the rear of an 90s model xj and molded it into the headliner of his 79 malibu wagon.it turned out sweet.i'm trying to con him into doind something similar like you did for my mj.

anyone use the crown steering shafts?i found them on ebay for $98 plus shipping.mine is pretty well shot and every one in the j/y is worn at as bad as mine or worse.

seems to be more trouble than it's worth to me.

those boxes are the biggest piles of crap.they'll let you down at the worst time.there quality control has sucked lately.about 20 years ago they were great,no so much.

anybody ever use rustys air intake for the xj?thinking about buying one but not sure.

i got my complete setup(booster,m/c and prop valve)for $45 from a junkyard.i spent like $20 buying lines and fittings.it was one of the best upgrades i've done to the truck.don't forget to bypass the rear brake valve.

i bought a s-10 handle and it didn't work for me.it was an aftermarket handle though.

do yourself a huge favor and have the head checked for cracks and resurfaced at a local machine shop.it sounds like your wanting to do it right so don't short cut yourself.

as hornbrod stated,they are a factory two piece a/t trans tube on the aw4.also if your making a bad connection at the wiper module under the steering column it will cause a slow wipe.

wheni got my booster from the j/y i made sure to get the booster spacer with it.

i got a professional products one for like $80 bucks.a dorman brand from advance or federated autoparts may be a little cheaper.