ratrapp

thanks for the info

unfortunately he hasnt mastered the manual transmission yet.i think ill just keep an eye out for a 700 r4 out of a 2wd s10 unless there is something else i can get it out of.

its a 2wd truck.mainly i would just love to add overdrive to the truck.i gave the truck to my nephew but it needs overdrive so bad.i had thought about maybe going the 700r4 route but just found a good deal on a low mileage 4l60e out of a 95 v6 camaro.its not a good deal though if it costs thousands to got it to work though.

has anybody converted a 2.8 carbed engine to a 4l60e from a camaro?I'm not wanting to change over to a efi 3.4 at this time but found a good deal on a trans out of a 95 camaro.i know shifter,driveshaft crossmember will need to changed but I'm not sure about adding a tps to my weber carb or getting the speedo to work.if anybody has done this let me know.

i would reinstall my old tps and try that.you could possibly have a sticking or failing iac.when i worked for jeep back in the 90s/earlys 2000s we had an iac exerciser that you hooked to the iac and you could manually increase or decrease the iac to make sure it worked.

without reading over the last 10 pages have you cleaned the throttle body out?does it run and start fine, just stalls out at low speed?

if you have arcing wires then theyre bad.it doesnt matter how new or old or what brand they are.ive been a mechanic for over 30 years and it doent matter where you bought them or how much you paid for them,we get bad new parts every day or they don't last long,its just the way the world is.i really think your overthinking it on the plug wire problem.it may not be your problem that your having but seeing arcing is not a good sign.

how did this happen?did you lose brakes suddenly or were you replacing parts and then lost your pedal?

how tight are your rear shoes?if the adjustment is backed off too much you'll have a low pedal.once again i had to delete my load sensing valve to get a pedal on my mj.i had plenty of fluid flow to the wheels but no pedal.there is a possibbilty you have a bad brake booster.

my load sensing valve was bad and i never could get a good pedal until i bypassed the valve.also make sure your caliper bleeder screws are on top or youll never get a pedal.

its going to be too nice to drive lol

i can guarntee if its this bad from the bottom its worse in the inside.

ive done this to my 86.i hate to say but I'm on my second carb after just a year.the one thing i did learn was it is picky about fuel pressure.ive got mine set at 3 lbs by webers instructions.i bought a cheap mr gasket gauge and regulator but in hind sight ive shouldve got alittle better set up for the gauge and regulator.it took a good while before i got the pressure to stay consistent and match the gauge.also if you have an automatic then you may have to modify the kickdown cable and to fit the carb .ive passed the truck on to my nephew and wish there was a better alternative but i havent found a simple alternative.

i think a member on here makes them.i bought a set several years ago and they fit fine.

well the first step is you have to pull the lower dash panel off to access it or at least i did.the other hard part is pushing the release button to get the knob out.there is very litttle room to pull the switch down to unplug it.

thanks,i just messaged him.

did some maintenance on my nephews 86 today such as replacing the harmonic balancer that came apart and when i went to replace the headlight switch i found the connector had melted which really wasnt a surprise.ive looked my normal avenues but i havent found a replacement for the connector.does anybody know of a good source for one?thanks

very nice work,itll be worth it when your done.

i used some sound deadener off of amazon called siless that was pretty inexpensive.it really takes alot of road noise out of the cab.i even put it in the roof under the headliner.

thats not a bad price to balance a rotating assembly if done right.when building any kind of stroker or even using aftermarket parts it needs to be balanced.checking weights of rods/pistons doesnt tell you much.i have had enough stroker engines in my life that i don't skip that step after the first time it happened to me.

i used some brand of sound deadner off of amazon .i think it was called siless or something like that.it was very inexpensive and did a great job of deadening sound noise.i even put it in the roof while the headliner was out.

definitley resurface the flywheel and the 2 little bearings in the kit are pilot bearings.you just have to see which one you have.they can be a pain to get out sometimes.

i think for the price of pellas theyre not a bad buy.of course theyre nicer windows out there but i have a 75 year old 1100 square ft house and its not worth spending crazy money on expensive windows.

did you have the rotating assembly balanced?i bought a stroker kit once that said it was balanced and ready to go.it was not and it had to come back out again and taken to a machine shop to be balanced properly.

when i was about 30 and hadnt purchased my home but about 5 yearsbefore.i got an installer that i seen on tv and that was a mistake.they replaced 7 windows in my house and had a quote lifetime warranty.they were double hung and gas filled for supposedly to help with heat savings.the cost seemed alittle high to me but i knew nothing about installing windows so it seemed okay.after a few years several of the windows had started discoloring from the gas leaking between the panes.well guess what,the place that the company gets windows from went out of business so i had no warranty on them.the installers did a fine job on the windows but the windows were overpriced junk.i learned my self how to replace windows and have one at a time done them.i went to lowes and got some pella replacement windows for around 200 bucks apiece.that was over 20 years ago.ive learned to do many home repairs without calling some one every time something goes wrong.