ratrapp

you can tell its been replaced before which actually means nothing.I'm sure a lack of greasing it can have made it go bad if its bad.if you do replace it you'll need to rock the steering wheel to get the bar back in place as the front end will shift some when its removed.

is the cam gear chewing up as well?unfortunatly think about where the metal from the gear has went through the engine,twice now.

thats actually the joint end,the other end has the bushing.

i second the luk clutchs.good clutchs if you use them for what there intended to be used for.thats the only clutch i use in my shop for the last 10 years and i havent a had single one die or fail prematurely.

been having brake light issues.found the culprit.the original spacer,2 plastic bushings and bolt have been replaced with just a bolt.looking for everything minus the switch,thanks

this is just another example of used is better than new.i see it everyday at my shop.

yeah you used a 78 dt which has both side and top terminals where a standard 78 has just side posts.

thanks guys,i 'm going to make the 58 fit but if the poor 2.8 survives long enough to outlast this battery ill go with a 34 or 78.

I'm finally getting ready to put my 86 on the road monday.i had been just putting any random used battery i had laying around to get it started and running.i went and got a new group 58 battery yesterday because thats what according to all the parts stores that its what it takes.the 86 battery tray is different from the 87 -up trays.the 58 fits but it just doesnt seem right as it doesnt lock in the tray like its not the correst size.even my hold down bracket says standard and one size and heavy duty flipped over.curious to see what other 86 owners use for battery size.i can cut up the tray but would rather just get the right battery.

you shouldnt need adjustable ball joints and you wouldnt know which ones you needed unless you went to an alignment shop and they said you needed them as thats the only way camber is adjusted on the jeep axle.

the 88 i had showed a good volt less than what it actually was.my grandmother bought it when it was a year old with only 10k miles on it and it had always been off some.factory gauges arent always the most accurate.

the last two customers we had that brought in detroit axle parts were a simple cross drilled rotor and pad combo that sonded like 2 rocks grinding together when stopping.they stopped fine but sounded awfull.another was a lincoln town car that customer wanted all 4 ball joints replaced.they lasted around a year before the lowers were going bad again.i don't know about them being reboxed moogs,but ive installed enough moog parts over the last 25 years that i'm pretty sure they werent moogs.moog also doesnt make as good a product as it did 10 years ago either.

i know the wj arms are solid arms and do allow for more turning clearance turning but you do have to grind the bushings down to make them fit.you seem to be on the struggle bus at times so i would just go with the stock arms and keep it simple.yes,most of the detroit axle stuff is crap.it either doesnt last long or simply doesnt fit.its one of these things that you get what you pay for.

i second not using the detroit axle crap.we've installed some of there crap that customers have brought in and its mostly crap.

i know this is a dead thread but i want to thank fiatslug87 for the part number for the clips.i found them at summit racing for 2 bucks apiece which beats the crazy prices that they have on them on ebay.i ordered 10 today just to have a spare one or two.

yeah i would get a noid light and see if the injectors are pulsing.if they are and you have adequate fuel pressure i bet the injectors have froze up from sitting.its not that uncommon.

if you have fuel pressure at the rail then the injectors have probably froze from sitting all those years.

well,i finallly got around to installing the carpet today.needless to say the acc kit fits like crap.it isnt molded in any way shape or form.I'm resorting to slicing and glueing to get this in place to look half way decent.on a side note the division seals on the doors i got from team cherokee fit great.

thanks,i waiting on them now.the pics look alittle rough but i don't mind if i have to sand and paint them.I'm hoping they get here because i afraid usps may have lost them already which unfortunatly is becoming pretty common anymore.if these don't work out ill hit you up.

found a set on ebay

definitly new bushings.as others said a grease job can sometimes temporarily tighten up a bad joint.the harbor freight grease guns arent bad for the price.

looking to see if anybody has a set of fiero v6 valve covers for my 2.8,only found 1 set on ebay and they want $300 bucks for them.would like to dress the 2.8 upalittle and eliminate some of the underhood clutter from the factory covers.

honestly,I'm computer/phone illiterate.i don't have the first clue on how to do it.you can see the difference in the pieces when laid side by side.

i can tell by the rust on the track bar joint thats bad.

well some what good news.the passenger side is now leak free using crown weatherstripping for the 97 up cherokee.the driver side i did have to still adjust the door up and inward some but its now leak free as well.my one gripe is when you install it i wish it had been just an inch longer because when you get it installed you have about an inch gap at the bottom in the middle of the door but ill cut a small piece out of the other weatherstripping i got from team cherokee and fill the gap in.does it cost more?yes but it does seal up the doors better.i don't care if it has wind noise but the water leaks had to be fixed and it did the job.now to replace a few pieces of weatherstripping around the glass and be done with it.