ratrapp

i used the siless brand off of amazon.it was in sheets that you just cut and peel.it did a good job of quieting the cab but I'm sure it would be a mess too remove.

ive learned most of the time its best to get a locally owned glass company instead of safelite.we had a customer ask if he could get safelite to replace his windsheld while i was putting an engine in his truck.i told him not a problem but i had nothing to do with it.they broke one of his wiper arms and scratched the crap out of his a pillars.for some reason he thought i was responsible since safelite washed there hands of it since it was done on my lot.i told him to have a nice day and not come back.

damn.havent seen that tool in almost 25 years lol.

a stepper motor exerciser is a tool that you hook directly to the iac and two leads to the battery.you can manually move the idle up and down to break free a sticking iac or test that if the iac moves at all.the dealership i worked at in the 90s and early 2000s had one.thats the only place i ever seen one.

thats seems so much simpler idea.ill check into that,thanks

thanks for the info

unfortunately he hasnt mastered the manual transmission yet.i think ill just keep an eye out for a 700 r4 out of a 2wd s10 unless there is something else i can get it out of.

its a 2wd truck.mainly i would just love to add overdrive to the truck.i gave the truck to my nephew but it needs overdrive so bad.i had thought about maybe going the 700r4 route but just found a good deal on a low mileage 4l60e out of a 95 v6 camaro.its not a good deal though if it costs thousands to got it to work though.

has anybody converted a 2.8 carbed engine to a 4l60e from a camaro?I'm not wanting to change over to a efi 3.4 at this time but found a good deal on a trans out of a 95 camaro.i know shifter,driveshaft crossmember will need to changed but I'm not sure about adding a tps to my weber carb or getting the speedo to work.if anybody has done this let me know.

i would reinstall my old tps and try that.you could possibly have a sticking or failing iac.when i worked for jeep back in the 90s/earlys 2000s we had an iac exerciser that you hooked to the iac and you could manually increase or decrease the iac to make sure it worked.

without reading over the last 10 pages have you cleaned the throttle body out?does it run and start fine, just stalls out at low speed?

if you have arcing wires then theyre bad.it doesnt matter how new or old or what brand they are.ive been a mechanic for over 30 years and it doent matter where you bought them or how much you paid for them,we get bad new parts every day or they don't last long,its just the way the world is.i really think your overthinking it on the plug wire problem.it may not be your problem that your having but seeing arcing is not a good sign.

how did this happen?did you lose brakes suddenly or were you replacing parts and then lost your pedal?

how tight are your rear shoes?if the adjustment is backed off too much you'll have a low pedal.once again i had to delete my load sensing valve to get a pedal on my mj.i had plenty of fluid flow to the wheels but no pedal.there is a possibbilty you have a bad brake booster.

my load sensing valve was bad and i never could get a good pedal until i bypassed the valve.also make sure your caliper bleeder screws are on top or youll never get a pedal.

its going to be too nice to drive lol

i can guarntee if its this bad from the bottom its worse in the inside.

ive done this to my 86.i hate to say but I'm on my second carb after just a year.the one thing i did learn was it is picky about fuel pressure.ive got mine set at 3 lbs by webers instructions.i bought a cheap mr gasket gauge and regulator but in hind sight ive shouldve got alittle better set up for the gauge and regulator.it took a good while before i got the pressure to stay consistent and match the gauge.also if you have an automatic then you may have to modify the kickdown cable and to fit the carb .ive passed the truck on to my nephew and wish there was a better alternative but i havent found a simple alternative.

i think a member on here makes them.i bought a set several years ago and they fit fine.

well the first step is you have to pull the lower dash panel off to access it or at least i did.the other hard part is pushing the release button to get the knob out.there is very litttle room to pull the switch down to unplug it.

thanks,i just messaged him.

did some maintenance on my nephews 86 today such as replacing the harmonic balancer that came apart and when i went to replace the headlight switch i found the connector had melted which really wasnt a surprise.ive looked my normal avenues but i havent found a replacement for the connector.does anybody know of a good source for one?thanks

very nice work,itll be worth it when your done.

i used some sound deadener off of amazon called siless that was pretty inexpensive.it really takes alot of road noise out of the cab.i even put it in the roof under the headliner.

thats not a bad price to balance a rotating assembly if done right.when building any kind of stroker or even using aftermarket parts it needs to be balanced.checking weights of rods/pistons doesnt tell you much.i have had enough stroker engines in my life that i don't skip that step after the first time it happened to me.