ratrapp

i already got the transmission.the owner said he would take it back if it didnt fit.i was just trying to make sure before i pull the old one.

long story short,the 2.8 a/t tranny is starting to slip in drive.i found one at a salvage yard for $300 with supposedly 92k miles on it.the trans i got has a crank sensor mounted to it but is definitly the same style trans.I'm sure it comes out of a 4cyl comanche.the owner of the yard says he thinks they interchange.what does the crowd say?

i got some fronts off ebay and i agree.they were better than nothing but they were poor quality.

you can pick up cheap noid light sets and fuel pressure gauge sets at harbor freight.you never know when theyll come in handy again.

maybe I'm misunderstanding,so your saying the flywheel doesnt have pins in it or places to install the pins?

i wouldnt run it without them.the bolts don't actually center the pressure plate,they just hold it in place.

was wondering the same thing

i had to get xj pans and beat and trim them too.of course they make mj pans after I'm done lol.

i tried the hesco high flow pump and t stat housing many years ago my old 88 and seen absolute 0 difference except a water pump that lasted no time.the water wetter i tried on different vehicles and it was a waste as well.

i used the siless brand off of amazon.it was in sheets that you just cut and peel.it did a good job of quieting the cab but I'm sure it would be a mess too remove.

ive learned most of the time its best to get a locally owned glass company instead of safelite.we had a customer ask if he could get safelite to replace his windsheld while i was putting an engine in his truck.i told him not a problem but i had nothing to do with it.they broke one of his wiper arms and scratched the crap out of his a pillars.for some reason he thought i was responsible since safelite washed there hands of it since it was done on my lot.i told him to have a nice day and not come back.

damn.havent seen that tool in almost 25 years lol.

a stepper motor exerciser is a tool that you hook directly to the iac and two leads to the battery.you can manually move the idle up and down to break free a sticking iac or test that if the iac moves at all.the dealership i worked at in the 90s and early 2000s had one.thats the only place i ever seen one.

thats seems so much simpler idea.ill check into that,thanks

thanks for the info

unfortunately he hasnt mastered the manual transmission yet.i think ill just keep an eye out for a 700 r4 out of a 2wd s10 unless there is something else i can get it out of.

its a 2wd truck.mainly i would just love to add overdrive to the truck.i gave the truck to my nephew but it needs overdrive so bad.i had thought about maybe going the 700r4 route but just found a good deal on a low mileage 4l60e out of a 95 v6 camaro.its not a good deal though if it costs thousands to got it to work though.

has anybody converted a 2.8 carbed engine to a 4l60e from a camaro?I'm not wanting to change over to a efi 3.4 at this time but found a good deal on a trans out of a 95 camaro.i know shifter,driveshaft crossmember will need to changed but I'm not sure about adding a tps to my weber carb or getting the speedo to work.if anybody has done this let me know.

i would reinstall my old tps and try that.you could possibly have a sticking or failing iac.when i worked for jeep back in the 90s/earlys 2000s we had an iac exerciser that you hooked to the iac and you could manually increase or decrease the iac to make sure it worked.

without reading over the last 10 pages have you cleaned the throttle body out?does it run and start fine, just stalls out at low speed?

if you have arcing wires then theyre bad.it doesnt matter how new or old or what brand they are.ive been a mechanic for over 30 years and it doent matter where you bought them or how much you paid for them,we get bad new parts every day or they don't last long,its just the way the world is.i really think your overthinking it on the plug wire problem.it may not be your problem that your having but seeing arcing is not a good sign.

how did this happen?did you lose brakes suddenly or were you replacing parts and then lost your pedal?

how tight are your rear shoes?if the adjustment is backed off too much you'll have a low pedal.once again i had to delete my load sensing valve to get a pedal on my mj.i had plenty of fluid flow to the wheels but no pedal.there is a possibbilty you have a bad brake booster.

my load sensing valve was bad and i never could get a good pedal until i bypassed the valve.also make sure your caliper bleeder screws are on top or youll never get a pedal.

its going to be too nice to drive lol