ratrapp

can it be done by a beginner?yes but the only thing that really can be a problem is if the manifold bolts break off.usually its either the very front or very rear bolt that breaks on the exhaust side.the gasket itself is pretty inexpensive but shop time could range between 2-4 hours billable if any bolts break then of course that would be extra.if its only leaking on the exhaust side then that may not effect the running of it.

i thought about ordering the gauge sending unit for an 86 s10 or sblazer but i havent yet.i wasnt sure if the resistance for the sensors would be the same.my cluster came out of a 4.0 jeep and don't know if the 2.8 cluster needs a different resistance switch to read correctly.

I'm going through the same thing myself.i think most catalogs list the 4.0 sending unit instead since the 2.8 was the first and only available in 86.i have been toying with idea trying to find an adapter to use the 4.0 sending unit in the 2.8.

well unless hes actually worked on older mjs or xjs the i would avoid a dealership since most of the techs probably there now have never worked on a 4.0.a good garage would like to know what you've done so they know where to look because obviously since you cleaned your injectors it hasnt run right,correct?i own a garage and yes i very rarely install customer parts for several reasons.1st is ususally the customer buys cheap crap off of amazon or ebay that may or may not be good and then they aske me to warranty parts they bought.if i sell someone something all the local stores i deal with stand behind it and usually give me a labor claim.2nd thing is yes most garages do mark up parts to stay in business including myself.i could charge the cost of parts but i would just have to increase my labor rate.

if you get it towed to somebody please tell them exactly what you've done andvwhat you've replaced.it will help them.we have to interrorgate customers to pull the truth out of them.

i think m/c rebuild kits have been mostly done away with.its like wheel cylinder kits.hardly nobody rebuilds those and for the price difference most of the time i don't think its worth it.

I'm not sure it would even start if you had them reversed.i may be wrong but i thought they were 2 different size lines.somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

i would try it.and i wouldnt worry about slotting/modifying it.this is what happens when you have a problem and just start replacing things.you end up with more problems than you started with.i just fixed a customers car that had a broken ground wire on the coil harness.he replaced both cam solenoids and sensors because of a no spark condition.i told him the best thing to do is put his oem stuff back on sice there was no problem with it before.

well if you still have the original cps i would reinstall it and hard wire it.once again if it ran fine before look back at what you replaced or worked on.it possible the o2 sensor could be stuck so if you just unplug it you can eliminate that.also tps could be out of adjustment or just going bad.at least you have it idling now.

this may sound like alot of work but if the front three don't seem to making much difference when you unplug them i would take the fuel rail back off and swap the front three with the back three and see if the front three cylinders start showing a difference.if it does then the injectors are bad,if not then you have other problems.if it ran fine before you done this then i would try this.ive learned over the years that if its not broke then don't fix it lol.

if your holding fuel pressure and the pressure is in spec i think you could rule out the pump.how did you go about cleaning the inectors?i have a friend that actually has an injector flush machine that cleans and flows them.cps are pretty sensitive on the 4.0s.i don't know what brand you used but i do think the oems are discontinued for the renix unless you can find a nos one.

did it run like this originally or did this start when you swapped the injectors?truthfully it may be time to let someone else look at it.there is no shame in it.I'm afraid theres only so much members can tell you to try or check without being there.

is it possible the front three arent plugged up in the right order?or maybe the intake gasket has a vacuum leak around the front cylinders?

the nexen roadian a/t is also a very good tire for the money.

i havent heard of people doing that before but its possible .it could work.you could check into that.i like the smoke machine because it pumps smoke into the system.ive seen people you shop vacs flipped in reverse to check for exhaust leaks using soap and water mixed in a squirt bottle.it may be a little more difficult to find vacuum leaks with this method.

yes thats exactly what I'm talking about.check the manifold for cracks(pretty common for 4.0).if the manifold gasket itself is leaking it can cause it to run rough being the exhaust and intake share the same gasket.i have a smoke machine i bought off of amazon.its the autool brand i think.i wasted money before buying a pos one off of ebay that is made from an old paint sprayer that was a waste of money.the smoke machine is invaluable for finding exhaust and vacuum leaks.

by the video,it sounds like an exhaust leak on the manifold but i could be wrong.it kind of sounded like it was trying to idle alittle better as it was running.i think 30 psi may be on the low end of the scale but i think its acceptable.you could try unhooking the injectors 1 at a time and see if it idles worse or stays the same.if it stays the same at least you know which cylinders are giving you problems.you could unplug the spark plug wires one at a time as well but the injectors won't give you a shock.

my rear prop valve was bad on mine.i never could get a good pedal until i bypassed the valve.i replaced wheel cylinders,master cylinder,hoses and lines until i finally bypassed the valve.

I'm definitly buying some when they come out.its all thats really keeping my from getting my 86 on the road.

you may still have other issues even when you fix this but it needs to be addressed before anymore repairs or attempted starts are made.after you put the regulator on and see that it holds pressure you may want to hold the throttle open some to see if it starts.it may be partially flooded from the leaking regulator.and no,holding the throttle open an an efi vehicle won't flood it.the throttle body is nothing but an air flapper.

my bad,i thought i read you didnt have fuel leaking out of it.damn i shouldnt read without glass's on lol.and no there shouldnt be any fuel in the line ,period.this causes fuel to go straight in the intake every time the key is cycled on.thats probably why the fuel pressure drops so suddenly.

just get a cheap set of copper plugs to get it running.it doesnt need or will benefit from platinum or iridium plugs the stores will try to sell you.try new plugs before you spray carb cleaner in the holes.this is just a test eliminate that you don't have fuel on the plugs to combust.

have you checked under the distrbutor cap to make sure that the rotor button hasnt come off the shaft.ive seen that before as well.

i do stress a very small amount of carb cleaner.I'm talking like the amount that comes out of those battery powered air fresheners.too much will either flood or hydrolock the engine.

thats a good sign.if all the plugs look good and your sure your getting spark then spray a small and i do mean small amount of carb cleaner in each spark plug hole,reinstall the plugs and see if it starts or try to start.