ratrapp

i replaced all 3 solenoids and they read the same as the old solenoids.it still doesn't shift unless i unplug the tcu and manually shift it.i'm now wondering if the used tcu i tried is good and i may try to find another used one.i think it only fits up to 90 as i i found another used one out of a 91 and it wouldn't plug up.

checked ohms today.shift solenoids 1 &2 are both 18 ohms and the converter clutch solenoid is 33 ohms,ouch.i haven't felt the converter lock up in years and that may be why.may also contribute to 15 mpg on the highway.anyway i ordered a complete set of solenoids new from tranmissionpartsusa for $158 shipped.i checked mopar and the 1 and 2 solenoids were $135 apiece and the converter lock solenoid was $240 so i went another route.i'll manually shift it until they come in.it worked fine today manually shifting it.thanks for the help so far.

i unplugged my tcu and i can manually shift it fine.i'm going to check the ohms on my solenoids today after work.at least i know my tranny itself is good which is a big relief.still seems funny when it's cold it'll shift fine until it warms up but i'm checking the solenoids today.

i tried a filter and it does it in every gear.it starts in overdrive first and works its way down to drive and then second.i let it sit a few hours and it starts shifting again when it cools down.

i think my 186k mile aw4 is dying.in the morning it shifts perfect.when it warms up it progressivley takes longer and longer to shift each gear until it quits shifting.it doesn't slip and always goes in gear,just doesn't want to shift.i tried a fluid to change but it didn't help(didn't figure it would but i tried anyway).after you let it cool off it 'll shift again for while.you can't manuallly shift it when it does this anf both tcu fuses are good and i even swapped the tcu out for another but it does the same thing.i don't want to try a used tranny as most in our local yards have as many miles as mine.any suggestions as where to get a new one?i checked at team cherokee and they have ones for the 91 up xj for 1425 plus shipping.

if all you were going to get was 5-10 extra hp i don't know if it's really worth it.i don't think i got that much if any.

you may have different results than me.your short block may not be as worn as mine.i even used the ho throttle body with the pricey hesco tps adapter.at first i thought it ran a little better,but that was just hope.after 2 days i realized it really didn't run any better.i did need to pull the head to replace the lifters and and fix the oil leaking headgasket.i'm not trying to discourage you from doing this,you may have better results than i did.

i actually did this.i took it one step further and used a 99 up intake manifold as well.besides replacing the lifters when the head was off and fixing the oil leaking head gasket it made no difference whatsoever to my truck.i had the head(95 ho head)freshened up at the machine shop so it wasn't like i was using a worn out head.it could be because my renix engine is pretty worn out why i didn't see any improvement as well.you will need to use the ho exhaust manifold and downpipe as well. i used the renix exhaust manifold and in 2 weeks it blew the gasket because of misalignment in the ports.i hope this helps some.

they are called pintle caps.used to you could buy replacement ones(maybe you still can)if they became hard and brittle and cracked or crumbled when removed.they do need to be on there.

jusr replace the m/c.we just put a new clutch,flywheel,master and slave cylinder in my friends 88 toyota p/u.everything came from advance.after 2 months he would have to pump the pedal every morning to get it in gear and then it was fine the rest of the day.we replaced the m/c again and it's fine now.thankfully thats what they make warrantys for.

i bought the brown dog mounts(just the mounts,not brackets)because i've broke 2 sets of stock mounts in 12 years during every day driving.i don't think i'll ever break these mounts but i do wish i had bought the slightly softer of the 2 mounts for everyday because they are a little harsh but are livable.

it looks just like hesco's overpriced housing that i've got on my 88.

it is a renix thing.in the morning my mj cranks for maybe a second,second and a half and it fires up.now in the afternooon about 9 hours later when i leave work it cranks 3 to 10 seconds before it fires.it's been doing this for years and i have replaced the dist. and a new updated straight wired mopar crank sensor to no improvement.my gf's 95 zj and my grandmothers 96 zj fire on the first crank even after sitting several days.the renix stuff is different than chrysler electronics.i've just learned to deal with it.

could be low on freon which would mean you have a leak.

compressors are tatally different as how they mount and even hose hook up.

if i remember right there is a o-ring behind the wires.you'll have to take the assembly out of the tank to fix it.new sending units aren't available for the mj either and cherokees are different than mjs.

it's amazing what a valve cover redesign can do.i did it myself on my 88 mj and to be on the safe side i changed it on my gf's 95 zj as well.

we use 1-800-radiator at our shop because they deliver the same day usually if we order early in the morning.the only bad part is 1-800 will only warranty radiators if they are defective at the tank seems.if a core rots out or busts,then tough.i've only had it happen once in the 10 years we've been dealing with them.i bought an all aluminum radiator from radiator classic off of ebay and i've had it on for about a year so far and was very happy with the price and fit.i think it was like $160-$180 shipped.

i work in a tire shop/garage and we see alot worse than that every day.as long as it doesn't appear to leak there then you should be just fine.

my mj used to get hot on hard pulls in hot weather as well.between a partially clogged radiator and crappy expansion tank it would get hot.i switched to a new all aluminum radiator off of ebay and done away with the expansion tank,it stays a consistent 195-200 degrees on the interstate now,even at 75-80 mph at 95 degrees just yesterday.

i've got an apn and it needs the intake grinded down alittle to fit around the 99-up intake as well.it fits 98 and lower intakes fine.

the zj's don't have any type of valve like the mj or older xjs.by the time chrysler took over jeep they done away with the valves.i never saw a point of these valves.

i've already got factory mj buckets and want to put zj buckets in it.if i used the mj bracket and adapters would everything be a simple bolt in procedure?i would like it to be a simple bolt in and no cutting up the floor.if so put me down for a set.

the only real problem they made in the bumper was having a reciever hitch made in it.let's really be practical about this,mj's aren't made for towing.the brakes are only modest at best without having to stop extra weight behind you.very few people have trailer brakes hooked up to there trucks to aid in stopping.i hauled 1800 lbs of scrap to the recyling yard yesterday in the bed of my truck and i prayed no one would pull out in front of me.i never intend to hook any kind of trailer to my truck as i got other friends full size trucks i can borrow for that purpose.i've had my rear bumper on now for a year and a half now and have hooked several chains and tow straps to the rear to pull out stuck larger trucks and it has worked great.i don't feel like i got took but glad i got to get one of the last ones before they ceased production.i actually put a flip down license plate frame over the hole to hide the reciever hole.

glad i got my rear bumper from jcr before 1 person on here stopped that.