ratrapp

definitly do the booster/mc upgrade from the 96 cherokee.i did and it made a good difference to me.it definitly cuts into the braking,especially at higher speeds.

4.7 in a truck may seem underpowered but i worked at a chrysler dealership for 5 years and the 4.7s in a wj have plenty of power for a suv.maybe by the time they hit an auction and have been neglected they are underpowered.

i don't know about all that.i did the swap with a 93 ho -head fresh out of the machine shop.i used a 99 up intake,ho style tb and already had the newer style 4 hole injectors and used the mopar mls head gasket that is a few thousands thinner than the paper gasket.i didn't really notice any extra power.i didn't swap the from renix style exhaust manifold so maybe that's holding me back.we'll find out soon since my atp ho style header and downpipe and new o2 sensor just showed up yesterday afternoon.so we'll see if that's what's holding me back.i already had a 2 1/2 exhaust and 2 chamber flowmaster and k&n filter on the truck.strangely when i changed the exhaust,air filter and switched the axles and transfer case fluid to redline synthetic i did feel a slight difference in mpg and power,but not with the head/intake change.

the o2 sensor can definitly cause your problem.mopar actually recalled some o2 sensors from the comanche.i had the one on my 88 replaced free when i worked at a chrysler/jeep dealer about 9 years ago.

yeah,i did the swap and even used the 99-up style intake with a 93 ho head.i spent a couple hundred dollars and all i succeeded in doing was fixing my oil leaking head gasket.i laso believe the power increase from a ho is mostly in the pcm and electronics of it.

4.0 belts have to be pretty tight to not squel.i use the cheaper brand bando belts on my vehicles and haven't had any problems.the glazing is probably from the belt slipping from not being tight enough.the belt dressing stuff is bad for serpentine belts.i would just get a new belt and gradually tighten it.

i swapped to a 93 ho head and the newer 99-up intake on my 88 and seen very little gain in power and no increased fuel economy.besides fixing an oil leaking headgasket it was a waste of time.

you'll really start getting into the money when you start swapping from a non jeep drivetrain.nothing is as easy as it seems and always cost more.not saying anything isn't possible but the extra few mpg's you may get is going to take along time to recoup from money spent on the swap.just my two cents.i would just rebuild the 2.5 and be done with it.

you can just connect the two ballast resistor wires together temporarily to see if it fix'es the problem.i would still bet on a fuel pump though.the factory mopar pump is discontinued so you'll have to get a parts store replacement.

i have just about completely quit using reman master cylinders.i try to use new ones in my shop that i work at.even if i have to wait several days to get it it's worth the wait.

looks like more trouble and money than what it's worth to me.i'll just keep looking for some cherokee or mj seats.

my driver side seat has about had it.my gf complains when she drives it that it leans(i'm used to it).i've searched the j/y and they don't have any cherokee or mj seats that are any better shape than mine.they do have plenty of zj seats that are in nice shape.i don't care about the recline feature as my driver seat quit reclining years ago.what's involved in swapping out to the zj seats?thanks.

if there is anyone in the lynchburg/rustburg area that needs a good mj tailgate there are 2 nice shape tailgates at the cunningham brothers pick n pull in rustburg.there are no taillights though.the trucks may have some decent parts left.one is a 2wd the other 4wd.one is a 4cyl and the other is a 6 cyl.the trucks don't stay long as they constantly crush and move inventory.just wanting to let members know.

i think i'll just stick to a one piece axle swap.it needs to be taken apart and the seals replaced anyway.

you just need a big torx socket.i think it's a 50 or 55 to get the lower bolt out.there not very hard to do.

if you don't have intermittent wipers then i don't think you have a wiper module.so probably not that.

check your wiper module under the dash below the steering column.if it's not plugged in all the way it'll act funny or it may just be bad.also did you bolt the motor completly down?thats where i think it grounds itself.

your more likely to find them in a cherokee than a mj.

my front axle seals are starting to leak alittle after 23 years and i thought i would replace the two piece with a one piece while it was apart.i've got a friend with a tj that we replaced his axles with usa alloy axles and he said i could have the passenger side one since his original drive side broke anyway so that should be a near freebie.does anybody have a part#for the kit to replace the passenger seal and actuator housing.i've looked under randys and just differentials but didn't see anything there.i'm probably not going to replace the transfer case as it still works great and hasn't been touched in the last 23 years except for change to redline fluid about 10 years ago.i would just to do away with the actuator and damn mess of vacuum hoses.

i'm thinking about removing the two piece cad axle and seeing if you can just install a newer single axle and add some type of seal to the old two piece housing.also has anyone noticed a decrease in fuel economy when changing from a cad to non cad style axle?also is there a transfer case that doesn't use vacuum that will bolt straight up to my aw4 without changing driveshafts or anything esle?i know the vacuum only runs the front axle and would be not needed anyway when or if i go to a single passenger side axle but i would like to eliminate some more useless vacuum hoses and junk.

i did use the 91-up fuel lines and tb.i bought the hesco tps adapter to reuse my stock renix tps.i had already replaced the injectors with the four hole pintle style awhile back.i had already put a high flow catco converter and 2 1/2 exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster on last year.i am going to replace the exhaust manifold and down pipe soon and see if it's really holding it back any.

not all zj's had cv style axles.my gf's 95 zj has regular u-joint style axles and 3.73 gears.

i did the head swap using a 93 head and 99-up intake.aside from fixing the oil leaking head gasket i seen no improvement in power or fuel economy.i do need to change my exhaust manifold to a ho style but i can't see it holding it back that much.i wasted a couple hundred dollars on the swap.maybe my shortblock is that worn out but i wouldn't waste my time doing it either.

mine overheats on the interstate only with the a/c on.well,it doesn't overheat but climbs farther over 210 than i like to see.it has a new waterpump,radiator converted to open cooling,mopar 195 t-stat.i can run 55-60 mph with the a/c on all day long but once it hits 65-75 mph with the a/c on for more than 5 miles it slowly climbs up.i even replaced the headgasket and head and it didn't make a difference.without the a/c on it doesn't get any warmer than normal.i'm thinking partially clogged cat as it's about 11 years old and does seem a little low on power.

my gauge reads full when i fill it up but it doesn;t move until it's down to about half a tank then it starts working.it reads full and empty right but anything inbetween is sketchy.i figure as long as empty and full are right i can live with it especially since they don't make new gauge floats assemblys.