ratrapp

i just did the xj booster/mc/brake valve swap and i'm very happy with it.it takes alot less effort to stop now.i've already done the xj instrument cluster swap and the newer model valve cover and open cooling system conversion.my next steps are zj sway bar,wj front control arms and ho head with 99-up intake.i've had this truck for 10 years and haven't made this much improvements ever since i've had it.i was going to retire her but i'll think i'm going to hang onto he until she(or me) dies first

i hate to say it but you should bite the bullet and replace the tank.i had to about 6 years ago.i didn't realize how much crap was inside my tank.i also went through 3 pumps ina year and a half before replacing the tank.the first 2 were mopar pumps as well.

will any 4 bolt tb work or any ho fuel rail?

i'm going to do the ho head conversion and need a few quick questions answered.what casting # head is the best to get,are all 4-bolt tb's the same(size mm) and will ant ho fuel rail work?i got a bare 99 up intake but no fuel rail.my local j/y has plenty of 91-95 cherokees to rob parts from.

yeah,is there an easier way of adapting the renix tps to a newer tb?that's all thats really stopping me from swaping to a ho head and 99 up intake.

i've got the hesco pump and high flow t-stat housing as well.they are good upgrades over stock.stick with a mopar t-stat.i've used several different brand high flow t-stats and different temps and none of them do as good a job as a mopar piece.i've had several of the supposed fail safe t-stats stick closed in less than a year.

i run 15w-40 diesel oil in my 88 4.0 as well.i notice it takes some of the piston slap noise away and it burns alot less oil.

if the amc 20 was like the one in my old 77cj5 and 79 cj7 then i'm not impressed with them.the stupid 2-piece axle is junk.i replaced them with moser 1-piece axles and then the next weak link was spider gears and center pins.they might be fine for everyday driving but they have weak links for serious off roading.

my 88 4.0 with aw4 and 235s only gets 15-16 mpg.i do do most of my driving around town though.it may get alittle better on the highway.this is 165k mile tired engine with a k&n,redline in the the diffs and t-case and a high flow converter with 2 1/2 exhaust.

i went through about 3 new bottles in my mj.the original bottle lasted 12 years.i was working at a mopar dealership then so i got a new one and it lasted 7 years and broke.i got another new mopar one and it only lasted 2 years.i finally changed over to a newer style cherokee radiator last year and haven't looked back.

i have no lift on mine and i never dropped the d/s on mine to take the fuel pump out.

yeah,my g/fs 95 grand 4.0 temp gauge kept flucuating up and down so i put a local parts store t-stat in it.it ran too hot so i got another and it ran too cold.i finally broke down and got a mopar one and it doesn't flucuate and runs just under 200 like it's supposed to.i'll have to order one from mopar and i'll just have to wait until tuesday for it.

my 195 mr.gasket t-stat stuck on me today coming home from work.i had one stick in my mustang and thought it was a fluke but i guess not.it was only 6months old.i had just put a hesco w/p,hesco t-stat housing and new style cherokee radiator in just 6 months ago and i thought all my heating problems would be a thing of the past.

i wonder what the problem is with the mj going through pumps?my original pump lasted 12 years.it went and i replaced it with a mopar pump and also bought a brand new gas tank because the inside was eating out with crud.it lasted 8 years and it died and i replaced it with a bosch pump.it seems like it doesn't get full pressure when i first start it and take off until i've drove it a mile or two.maybe these trucks like water pumps and fuel pumps.at least the 4.0 trucks do,lol

i've installed 2 of these kits for a friend of mine.he had a 00 cherokee and his son had a 95 cherokee.they are cheap and the brackets for the track bar and the drop brackets for the t-case are crap at best.i wouldn't personally use one.you get what you pay for.

the only additive i like is seafoam.it's good for cleaning carbon out of combustion chambers and pistons tops.i also like there transtune as i've fixed a few trannys with this stuff.lucas isn't worth it,loke others sais just a heavier oil and never lut that stuff in an a/t.would you trust something that said to put it an an a/t or a manual tranny?

my g/ f has a 95 4.0 zj with 190k miles and it runs better than my mj when it was new and definitly rides better.down sides are it will probably need an evaporator core unless it's been replaced,rear axle noise(gears and or bearings)and they do like electrical gremlins.hers does get 20mpg on the highway which is about 5-6 more than my mj.they do share the common 4.0 problems of waterpumps,exhaust manifolds and crank sensors but hers has the original w/p and the manifold is atleast 6 years old and not cracked yet.i would really get a 4.0 instead of a 5.2 because the 4.0s are better imop and easier to work on.i was a jeep/chrysler tech for 5-6 years so i've seen one or two zjs.

my trw track bar only lasted a few years.i replaced it with a spicer and it's been good for the last 5 years.we quit using trw in our shop and switched to spicer or sometimes moog and have had alot longer lasting parts.

i think asking those questions then your in over your head.it would be easier to get the clutch working than attempt an a/t swap.

really you shouldn't adjust it but sometimes people fool with it and cause thereself problems.

on the side of the tb there is a little screw that stops the throttle from completely closing .i think it's either got a torx or allen head in the screw to adjust it.it's very small but it's on the side where the throttle cable is at.

if it happened after you cleaned the iac then check the throttle stop on the side of the tb.when i was a tech at a jeep/dodge dealership i had a 4.0 jeep that wouldn't idle very well.i cleaned the iac then it idles high as hell.i checked and someone had adjusted the idle stop to compensate for a dirty iac.the girl later told me that her b/f had adjusted the idle up but it didn't help any.

thats why i just went to my favorite exhaust shop even though it's 60 miles away.i bought a catco converter for $90 and installed it myself and got a flowmaster for $65 and they charged $90 for a 2 1/2 inch pipe from the converter to muffler and 2 1/2 tailpipe.i always fix everything myself but for the price and quality it was worth it.

they make offset upper balljoints to correct a camber problem.depending how bad the camber is though it may or may not be enough.

i'm pretty sure the downpipe is at a diferent angle for a renix.it would be easier to get a ho downpipe.