AeroNautical

Really, that much? I would have thought, given the shape and miles it'd be worth 25 or even 3. How do you figure the market rate?

That is nice, wish he had some interior shots. 45 is a bit much for a 2.5 2wd I'd think.

Gonna post to keep track of this thread, I'm interested in this aswell.

I was inspired by Jims story and patched em with fiberglass, did an outstanding job, 6 layers thick (3 top, 3 bottom), probably even stronger than a metal sheet. Thanks for the help

A 2 door XJ with an MJ tailgate. That is awesome, that's what the MJ should have been anyway, room can sometimes be scarce in the cab. Shame he didn't put the side vents on.

Put in 15 a few months ago, I'll see if I can scrounge up some spare cash... wwait a minute.... Spare cash and a Jeep.... spare cash.... Jeep... something doesn't add up.

I had that exact problem, it was leaking where the metal met plastic, dripping pretty constantly. I just went to the JY and found 6 almost brand new injectors off a Grand Cherokee. The only fix I could find was a rebuild, but that would cost more than it was worth. I have 5 old but good injectors sitting around if you don't have any JYs around and don't want to spend the money on a new one. First Post: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38555-mjxj-parts-updated-regularly/

I misread that and thought you sold your XJ AND a bike for $1400, haha. That engine looks all too familiar, I rebuilt a 2.5 that had a cracked head, all 4 cylinders were full of coolant. One hell of a headache. Since you got rid of your XJ, I'd say go with the lift option you mentioned, MJs look stocky as hell with lifts and tires. Look forward to seeing your progress.

Well, I swapped in my old sensors and the problem persisted. I frantically look around the engine bay for something that may have knocked lose, turns out in my attempt to plug in the CPS, the brittle vacuum line to my MAP sensor broke without me knowing. A quick replacement and it runs strong, starts strong and doesn't run rich. An annoyingly successful days work.. Thanks again for the help

Could it be a faulty O2 sensor? I got it from rock auto, same plug and threading as the old one, but the tip did look a bit different.

No, made sure it had a good amount of clearance. Did a little more testing and it struggles to find it's idle. It goes down to about 300 and revs back up to 8 or 900, then back down again, over and over very quickly. When I give it power while driving, I can feel it pulsating a bit too, like I have normal torque, then lose it, then get it back.

The new O2 and CPS sensors came in today. Installed them, and it starts right up, but holy hell is it idling rough. Does it take awhile for the computer to realize the O2 is new? The exhaust has high and low points, almost as if it's skipping. When I rev it to about 3000 and let it go it almost quits the engine, too. I really hope this will clear up in a few miles of driving...

Hooah

Damn, kinda was hoping the fiberglass would do the trick alone. I do have access to a welder, would it just be easier to do some practice welds and go at it? I've dealt with rivets before, they're kind of a pain in the @$$. Thanks for the help guys

I knew when I bought my MJ it had minor holes on the driver side floor. It's time to fix them, but I need some help. I'll get pictures up soon, but the hole resides under the accelerator pedal, maybe 3 or 4 inches long, 1 inch wide, pretty much where your right foot rests. I'm not a very good welder, and I'd rather not pay someone to do this for me. The most I've welded are shock mounts. If I neutralize the rust, could I just use a few layers of fiberglass sheets and resin? If not, what would be the best, non weld way to fix the hole?

$30 over $5, but well worth it. I've got a valve cover from a 99 Grand Cherokee on my 88, fits perfectly. Pretty sure all 4.0 covers are universal, not sure about 2.5 though.

Just fill it with water, it'll be fine.

I... I think that's about it... I've actually been to a Bubba Gumps before, awesome steaks..

Alot of good information in this post: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38612-very-high-idle/

Would advancing the timing make enough of a difference to bother? I guess a better question is, what would it help? I was going to drill the larger holes to increase the output when the new one arrived.

Shouldn't be too hard to find, but location is important, unless your willing to drive across the country for one, haha.

Alright, I soldered the two remaining wires to the assembly, I figure a ground is a ground, right? Turns out, it was a good idea, she runs so smooth now, starts up within a second or 2, etc. Still smells rich, but I've got an O2 on the way to hopefully fix that. I have a question about your CPS upgrade, though. I attempted it with my old CPS, but the bar would not move. I don't want to break the damn thing, but am I supposed to go full force when banging at it?

Gotcha, thanks for the help cruiser, you fixed so many of my problems with those renix tips, hopefully this will continue that trend.

Where did those single wires go before? According to the write up they go to the C101 connector. But it has no mention of the 2 single wires after you cut the factory splice and solder the 2 sets of 3 wires together.

Call, you will.