AeroNautical

Sounds about complete to me, and no, the wire harness should be identical between 89 and 90. I think it did change in 91, though, when the HO came along. You'll have to cut your rear drive shaft, as an XJ rear won't work. While your at it with the conversion, if your running a D35 in the rear, I recommend upgrading before cutting your axle. A 29 spline 8.25 is a HUGE improvement, and a dime a dozen on craigslist or the junkyard. Not bad for an axle about the strength of a D44. Also, make sure the gears match front and rear. If both your truck and the XJ are 4.0 auto, then you should be good to go at 3.55. If the XJ is the 2.5, that's a different story. Make sure both autos have the same shifting mechanism, either floor or column. I've heard converting one to the other is more work than it is worth.

It is HO, and I have never seen this on a HO XJ, so my money is with a TJ or ZJ.

Is that the newer HO MAP sensor? If so, sounds like it's time for a new one.

The mounts are in great shape, to the point where I think the PO replaced them at some point. I'm pretty sure I narrowed it down to my ax15 and clutch components. I'm going to drop the assembly hopefully tomorrow and see how things look. If everything checks out, I'll be sure to cry about what else might be wrong in this thread.

Any number of things, but firstly, is your truck a manual? And if so, check to see if your master cylinder is leaking. If it is, your fuse box is most likely fried, brake fluid and electronics don't mix well.

Hope to one day see this truck in person, awesome project and pick.

I kept alot of information out of that article I wrote, but it's not the brakes. I've checked all four, and the noise comes from the engine/transmission (hard to localize) No, it sounded pretty smooth once it started, no sounds out of the ordinary, just the vibrations.

I've done alot of work on my truck, the most being my transmission swap about 4 months ago. To this day, it's run so well I find it hard to believe my engines got 230,000 miles on it. Yesterday morning I started up my truck in 8 degree weather, it was cold, I doubt it's ever run that cold before. I have a cheap battery, so it lugged a bit starting, but no problems once it did, except it was vibrating a bit violently. The smart thing would be to shut off the engine, but I gave it a bit of gas before that just to see if it got worse, and it went away. I figured it was just the cold giving a rough start, then I start to drive it. During steep turns at any speed and regular braking, I hear loud metal on metal scraping, as if the mechanical fan was hitting the radiator. Then I found it was very hard to shift (ax-15 with fresh redline). That leads me to believe it's the fingers on the pressure plate. If that's the case, though, why does it stop scraping and vibrating when it's warm? It doesn't make noises while shifting or using the clutch, only when turning and braking. I had even thought it was the crankshaft, because I replaced the RMS recently, and in doing so you have to remove the rear U-strap. I know I installed it right, and tourqued it down to OEM specs, but still a valid concern. Before I start taking my transmission off and disassembling the bottom half of my engine, what are your thoughts? 4 months of smooth operation means I no doubt installed the clutch components correctly, maybe just a faulty kit? It's a RhinoPac kit.

Look at my signature, it has never been more relevant than right now, haha. I found a threading tool with a square head that fit almost perfectly into the hole. I just used vice grips to clamp down the other end and turn. Worked like a charm, got it from Ace.

Is this what you mean?: I took it out awhile back, but I've heard bad things about helper springs, and to never use them, from the guys on this forum. If you meant adding a leaf, there are some good bastard pack threads around here detailing what trucks leafs can be mixed in with ours. Here's a link: http://comancheclub.com/topic/40150-bastard-pack/

And fiberglass, I've seen outstanding work with fiberglass, plus it's easier to work with and easily just as strong when layered up.

Well, I have yet to find a lift kit specifically for an MJ, but most XJ kits will work minus the leafs and shackles. If your piecing it together, Rubicon Express and Rough Country are good places to look.

This would have come in handy last week. It was a bear to get that pan back on myself.

Would CA drop brackets be required for this lift with adjustable control arms? Thought just crossed my mind as I was about to hit the buy now button on quite a few lift components. I've got the 4.5 ruby coils rather than the 5.5, since they lift higher than stated.

I believe all year aw4 trannys have the same splines and harness connectors, but I'm not sure. If it's a floor shift aw4, it's a safe bet that's what you'll have to convert to, unless there is a writeup somewhere on how to convert a floor shift aw4 to column shift. You can use the front driveshaft out of any 4wd XJ with an aw4.

If it's an automatic, than yes, it's the AW4. The 2 and 4wd aw4 transmissions use the same bell housing, cross member and electrical harness, only thing you'd really need to do is get a transfer case and a shortened driveshaft, plus a front driveshaft and axle.

Yeah, that's bent alright, and damn, did you really have to rip the shocks and leafs out with it? haha

I too am selling that exact axle, shame your so far. The TJ axle will require rewelding the perches, as will an 8.25, however, if you find a 29 spline (97 and later XJ) it's just as strong as a 44 and relatively cheap, I got mine for $75. But, if your not a welder, moving the perches might cost a bit much.

What would I benefit from if I installed them? Just a more rigid structure? Do you recommend I get them, or would it be an unnecessary expense?

You can never go wrong with the tried and true Australian brand, Old Man Emu. They are on the high end of the spectrum in quality, AND price, haha.

70 inches for a 2wd speedo cable, turns out mine was sitting within reach to measure it out. Having a little slack is fine as long as you keep it from kinking too much. Kinks mean bounce in the speedometer. So does bad lubrication.

I don't know the lengths of stock speedo cables, but they did put two different lengths in our trucks, one for 2wd and 4wd. There is no way one is 22 inches shorter than the other, though. I've got both, I'll see if I can measure them out for you tomorrow.

This topic has a wealth of knowledge on how to solve that problem: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38612-very-high-idle/ Hope it helps, and good luck.

I copied and pasted the list I had written up for myself, which was a 2wd to 4wd swap, sorry about that. Your right, the shaft should be the same length as long as you don't change your rear axle. You can't, however, use your current t-case. The splines changed from the ba-10 to the ax-15, I think from 21 to 23.

Guess it's safe to say noone agrees with what should be put in the transmission. I know gear oil is BAD for an AX-15 because of the brass syncros, which is the whole reason I used synthetic 10w-30 motor oil, recommended on this forum. I don't like the idea of spending over $60 to fill it with redline, however the reviews are damn good, and it's one of those "how often do you change the oil in your transmission?" situations, it might just be best to drop the money on it and forget about it, especially if it shuts the tranny up.