AeroNautical

I know there is another CB thread floating around here, but I didn't want to hijack it. I'm having a transmit issue with my CB. It's a recent problem, that started after awhile of inactivity. I receive transmissions just fine, from trucks on a highway that's 15 miles from here. However, my SWR for transmitting is non existent except on higher channels. I know this is a tuning problem, but my antenna is not tunable as far as I can see. I re-ran grounds from both my radio and antenna to a common point. I tested continuity in my cable, the cable is good. That fact my radio worked flawlessly before and is all of a sudden unable to transmit a strong signal is worrying. I've got a video and a few pictures:

Heh heh, funny story about rubber. If you've got thick rubber soles on your boots, go grab an electric fence. You won't get shocked because of how well rubber insulates. Put your knee on the ground and get ready for one hell of a jolt! Don't ask me how I know. But yes, rubber is a BAD conductor, I'd sand it down to metal.

Damn, I just saw a 4wd 2 door XJ with a pukey get scrapped not too long ago, didn't think about it but should have grabbed the front shaft, same length as the ax15 combo.

Alright, I measured them all out. I have one that measures 31" compressed, 34" extended from u-joint eye to eye. I've got another that measures 25 1/2" compressed, 28 1/2 extended eye to eye (obviously won't work, I think it's from a wrangler). I measured out my AX-15 shaft from an MJ and it measures 30" compressed. I believe if you have any kind of lift, the extra inch won't make a difference, but I'm not sure. Let me know what you think:

Awesome, glad to hear it. Necessity breeds invention!

Hmm, I have a few front driveshafts laying around the garage, I'll measure em out to see if they might work for ya, one of em I know is from an AX-15 MJ (but that ones MINE, haha). As for seats, I'm in the same boat right now.

I wants it, and I needs it, but I can't haves it.

Wait a minute, you could drive it without your TPS connected? I didn't even think it could start without it. I would not recommend it, because that's the only thing that tells the ECU how much fuel to give the engine in relation to how open the butterfly valve is. I think what was happening was your engine was getting a constant, steady flow of fuel, but when you used your accelerator pedal, it only introduced more air, allowing a better combustion. Did you notice a huge drop in HP with it d/c?

Alot of good information in this post, shares the same title: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38612-very-high-idle/ I had that problem recently, my TPS went bad and would occasionally send the wrong voltage, giving the engine alot more fuel than it needed, causing a high idle, especially on start up. If you have a manual transmission, you can use an auto TPS, but not vice versa. Auto TPS' are a hell of alot cheaper anyway, about $35 on rockauto.

Oh yeah, you did say connector, didn't you? I think your best bet is the JY then, I've looked at a few sites and the more abstract connectors like that one are hard to come by.

Rockauto has em for about $5, plus any jy around here has plenty of them. AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S5376 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1191304&cc=1181584 Hope that helps, and always good to see a local MJ owner!

I have to pump my brakes twice to get full stopping power after changing my axle. It was much worse, but I bench bled the master in the vehicle and it helped alot, but still needs a pump. Is this a sure sign of a bad booster?

Your name wouldn't happen to be Lee, would it? I just got a contact from a guy in Summerville SC asking about my 2wd ba10, if it is you than that's a hell of a coincidence, haha.

First, the obvious. Check for leaks in all of your lines. Have you bled your brakes recently? When applying the brakes, do any of your soft lines flex or bend? I had/have a similar problem, and fixed it by bench bleeding the master cylinder. I have to do it again because I didn't get all of the air, but it made a huge difference. There is also a bypass (failsafe) line going to the rear brakes, used to eliminate the proportioning valve and give the rears 100% braking power if the fronts fail. If there is air in this line, it has to be bled a specific way.

That was my mistake, it's a Purilator. Last changed about 5k miles ago with last oil change.

All I know is it's the longer Purilator filter. (Not my vehicle) It only seems to get this low after leaving the highway and idling, but I'll give it a shot. Anybody rent them out?

I'd say more, but you guys have keen eyes and brilliant intuition, so... ideas? (not the crack) Vehicle: 99 XJ 4.0 AW-4 Bad oil pump? Bearings?

I'd eat a Klondike bar for it

I JUST saw a Brute yesterday and didn't know what the hell it was. It looked like a cross between a TJ and an MJ, looked awesome. They aren't sold like that, are they? I've only ever seen that one, and it almost looked aftermarket, just with a big bold "BRUTE" on the side.

Hell, I'd buy the whole thing just for the gas in the tank, it's cheaper.

I get it now, these pictures are taken in the future when the new Jeep Cherokee pickup comes out. Seems Jeep stuck to their roots in the year 2026. Why is it so common for the rear bumper to be crushed on one side?

Always wanted me one of them Cherokee pickups. How clueless can someone be, the name of the vehicle is literally embossed on the side of it. Even if those logos are gone, you've still got the door jambs, the glovebox door, the plaque under the hood that ALL say Comanche.

It looks like the two bars add to the structural integrity, but doesn't cutting a unibody like that mean bad things?

Oh my, I just dealt with holes in my floor I thought were big, but that... Was nice having a john in my MJ, though. Just pull up the floor mat and fire away.

Bit of back story: SWB, just did an SOA 8.25 swap from d35, put in ax15 and 231, and cut driveshaft accordingly. I'm getting a loud whirring noise at about 25-30MPH with small vibrations. I put in XJ shackles to lower the back a bit until I can finish the front, I know doing so lowered the pinion angle a bit too. I don't get it accelerating or decelerating, just at that steady speed. Having installed so much at once, it could be a number of things, but I'm pretty certain it's the pinion. I've been looking at angle shims until I can get the MJ shackles back in. Your thoughts?