AeroNautical

Yes, but imagine my axle is still SUA. Now place the stock shock mounting plate under the leaf spring where it's supposed to be, and that is roughly where my new shock mount is is placed. See what I'm saying? The diameter of the axle tube is larger than the stock d35, so it's probably a quarter inch lower at most, but still would retain stock length shocks with decent articulation. Your thoughts?

This is why I would think stock length: Where I welded my shock mounts onto my axle is roughly the same location the shocks mounted when my old axle was SUA and I used the stock shock mount plates.

Granted you have space for 2! I've had to pass up on so many MJs because I don't have the space.

I'll be getting the tires tomorrow, BFG All Terrains, 33x10.5. I won't let these tires stop me, though:

I hate to hear that, especially after you just got a locker for it. Time to see just how capable your stock height (?) MJ really is! haha

Edit

Sorry about that poor camera work. It's my EGR valve making this noise. It works, I've tested it several times, but noisy as hell, when no gas is applied after it's been revving a bit. It happens constantly while driving, but almost impossible to recreate when recording as you can see in the video. Any ideas? The plunger in the EGR moves in and out slightly when making the noise, too. It only does it when idling.

I see, I meant no harm by my suggestion, I just didn't know. Probably the reason it never fried my ECU when it happened was because the alt was shot, it barely made any current anyway. Guess I got lucky.

Wait, really? What would produce that much voltage? When the my alt went bad, the battery was the only thing keeping my engine running, and occasionally the contact would work it's way lose and I'd lose my engine. How could that be dangerous for the electrical?

When that happened to me it was a bad alternator and a bad battery connection. Combined is a recipe for disaster, because when the battery is d/c and the alt can't produce enough power, the circuit is broken I believe, thus causing the engine to quit. Make sure your battery fasteners are tightened. To test my theory, start you engine and d/c your battery cable, if your engine quits, that's probably your problem.

Understood. When I did the SOA, I didn't reuse the stock shock mounts, I welded on perches to my axle, roughly the same location to where the stock shocks mounted. That's why I'm thinking stock length shocks would be ideal for me, because I get about 5 inches of lift with my SOA, and I tried shocks to match, but they were way too long. I know articulation may be limited, but I can't think of a better alternative than what you mention, getting bump stops.

I'd be down for that, but Uwharrie first? I've been wanting to try some of the trails up that way for a long time now.

Assuming the spring perch mounts are used, swapping the sides they are on, it changes the length about 0.5" to 1". Not enough to warrant an immediate replacement. I actually mistyped, I meant to ask if the shock length would remain the same with the SHOCK mounts welded onto the axle. But you did answer my question, I'm just wondering how much articulation I can get using stock length shocks in the rear.

No, I've read that anything 3.73 or numerically higher require a new carrier.

I've had no issues what so ever with steering. I replaced all components with new TRE, and a pitman arm drop is NOT required, or recommended in my opinion. A common upgrade is I believe WJ steering components. Doing SOA with spring mounts welded onto the axle, I'd imagine the rear shocks would remain stock length, right?

I see, I didn't realize this. How much different is the braking to justify changing rims, though?

When I did the rear disc brake swap on my 29 spline 8.25, brakes out of a ZJ, it did nothing to affect my stock rims. No rubbing, and all stock jeeps (to my knowledge) have 5 on 4.5 lug patterns, so there wouldn't be a need to change your wheel.

There are more redundancies in that sentence than in our Apaches avionics systems.

Does rough country make an MJ lift kit? Or did you buy a cherokee lift? If so, than the shackles would have been too short to work with an MJ without fabrication anyway. Otherwise, that's alot of sagging. What is your current gearing? If you don't know, let us know the transmission you have?

The cross members weren't different between drives, but between transmissions. The aw-4, Peugeot and I believe the ax-4/5 all shared the same cross member, while the ax-15 had it's own. You can use a crossmember from any of the mentioned transmissions with an ax-15, with a 3/4 inch t-case drop kit. What do you mean overhanging the frame, it's being pushed too far out on the sides? Or it's lower than the other cross members?

I just bought 3 Moog u-joints for $47 with that discount. Normally would have been $70 something, picked it up in the store an hour after I ordered it. Is this a permanent deal? Or limited time?

Got it all in: Did the fine tuning this morning and she runs like a champ, buttery smooth. All that's really left are the tires and front drive shaft u-joints. Anyone want this? The boosters a bit cramped with everything put back in. I had to coax the washer reservoir abit to get it to fit: The Novak shifter and JKS quicker d/c: I'll get more pictures up soon showing the stance of the truck, looks stocky as hell.

Nice, how many people showed up? I actually got my MJ driving that night, but the alignment was still off. Fixed it this morning, and it drives buttery smooth with its new lift and components. 1 DAY TOO LATE, haha.

Awesome find!

For future reference (people who are searching), those were indeed the correct part numbers for all 4 tie rod ends. Of good quality, and a decent price. $71 for all 4 shipped.