AeroNautical

Sorry it took so long to report. When I start it cold, it idles fine, about 7 or 800 rpm. As soon as it's warm and i've been driving a bit is when it idles at around 11 or 1200. That leads me to believe, since the EGR is only active when the engine is warm (right?), it's probably the new EGR giving me problems. I used the correct gasket, and just yesterday rtv sealed it to make absolute certain it's not leaking air, but no change. I couldn't find the idle bleed hole, is that the second hole with no line attached above the map sensor line on the TB?

Because of that plastic cover, the rod shouldn't slide. Because it does, that plastic piece is either missing, or broken. I ran mine like that for awhile, and other than a bouncing speedo, it was fine. If you can't push in at all, than that plastic piece may not be broken, maybe the actual rod snapped? If you can push it, do it so there is enough left on the tranny side to bite the speedo gear, otherwise you'll be running into the same problem, but on the reverse end. 40-50 poster? Never heard that before.

Unscrew the cable at the tranny/t-case end and push some of the rod back through. I had to do that with my old cable before I replaced it, because it shouldn't move freely in and out like that.

Mine just went bad, it would click very rapidly as I drove, but the horn wouldn't sound. Mine was a white 3 prong, located under the dash, just behind the e-brake cable. It'll have two plastic tabs on each side of the relay locking it into the connector. Mine is an 88 4.0, so I'm willing to bet it's different, but atleast you can check to make sure.

That, and the length of the e-brake cables I believe. Best year XJ to look for is 97 and later with the 29 spline Chrysler 8.25. Dana 44 strength, cheap and easy to find.

Wow, that interior is in gorgeous shape, minus the tear in the seat and the right side of the dash hangin a bit. I had exactly what you were looking for a few months back I got from a jy, but sold it since, unfortunately. I know that doesn't help you much, but I really wanted to comment about how clean your cab looks!

I should have mentioned it's not a complete lift. There's no way stock control arms would last off road, nor extended sway bar linkage without disconnects. I got ideas from that post, and modified it to my needs, while still maintaining an $800 or so price tag.

From this post on is what my MJ looks like with the lift and tires I installed: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38295-pfc-88-buffalo-hump/?p=431013 Overall, I got the entire lift, including shocks, for about $800. That's with Ruby coils, flex joint adjustable control arms, extended braided steel brake lines, JKS sway bar disconnects, everything. You said you don't care about ride quality, but it does ride nice. Plus, you can still use that post I mentioned above as a guideline, but just up the length of components to suit a 6.5 inch lift. Shouldn't cost too much more.

Got the chance to chop my front fenders. It's a bit crude, but works well: Before: After: It's close, but no rubbing!

I agree, I pieced mine together with Rubicon express, rough country, JKS, Novak, all that good jazz, and saved a ton with a 4.5/5 inch lift SOA. Check this post out, it gave me alot of ideas: http://comancheclub.com/topic/35519-55-600-mj-lift-cheap-high-quality-100-complete-lift/

Still worth it, especially with shipping included. Roll bars are rare, and I believe the LWB ones are the rarer of the two. Grab while you can!

I had that exact problem, too. Nothing a minute at the grinding wheel didn't fix, though.

I'd hate for the TPS to be the problem, it's almost new (few thousand miles), and adjusted according to your tips. Throttle body adjustment screw has never been tampered with to my knowledge. The idle has only gone up since I installed the new EGR valve. I've refreshed my sensor grounds, adjusted, cleaned, eliminated, etc almost everything on your list. Hell, it's your list that's kept my truck on the road. It's in my browser favorites bar. And as I've said, there are no vacuum leaks, the EGR is tight with a new gasket with no leaks.

This thread is too cool I can't let it get buried. Keep em comin.

Uh oh, sounds like I've got another problem, then..

Gonna bump this, I'm still curious to see how well they fit and function with various members.

I did confirm it was the EGR itself, the pintle would move in and out at idle, causing it to be rough. I replaced it and it no longer makes the noise, and idles nice, but higher for some reason. My idle is at about 1200. That led me to believe there were leaks, but i sprayed carb cleaner everywhere and no spikes. I pull the pintle on the EGR back and the engine quits, so there isn't any vacuum leak. How long does it take for these ECUs to learn?

Comanche ... Sorry, had to try it for myself! haha

I laughed for a solid minute on the XJ and RC together. Awesome build, and even more incredible you started from a bare bones frame. Couldn't help but notice an upper control arm missing on that XJ, though. There a story behind that? Those tube flares combined with the rock sliders is brilliant. One awesome Longbed XJ Cherokee!

It doesn't rub when steering, only when flexing. Edit: Misread your post. When flexing it doesn't rub in the wheel well, only on the front of the fender. I'm just gonna take a saw zaw and chop it off to fix the problem. It is bump stopped properly, though.

I suppose the easiest thing to do is replace it, but do you know of a fix?

Much appreciated, here are a few more shots in her natural environment: A tree I knocked down by mistake: Until I can figure something out with my front fender flares, I have to leave my front sway bar connected so I don't flex too much. It takes alot, but they do rub.

I'd like to bump this up again, it's starting to drive me crazy, haha. The only thing I can think of is a new egr is in order, but thats alot of money to drop on a worthless emissions part. ( or so I've heard)

The "finished" project: She started life as a stock 2wd, and turned into a capable beast. It took some time, but I'm proud of her.

Quite the hefty price tag, how much do those tracks cost? I'm thinking if a track breaks, it can be removed to expose the 5 lugs to put the tire on. Better a tire than nothing at all. Also, I don't want it.. That's childish.... I need it.