AeroNautical

I'd love to see a write up for that.

I just did this swap a few weeks ago, took about 3 days because of a few issues, and I did it almost entirely alone. If you've got the know how and man power, I'd say one full day can be done. I wouldn't say it'd be road able, however. Front end alignments, brake bleeding, etc may be easy tasks, but do eat up alot of time.

After giving up on trying to make the front brakes "fail", I removed the fail safe line from the equation, and used a coupler to connect the proportioning valve in the rear directly to the flex hose line. In doing so, I've got very weak brakes again. But, no matter what, the pedal is still very spongy, and takes a second to spring back up when I let off my foot. I'm starting to think my brake booster is bad, or there is air somewhere and it can't get out. This is a picture of my new rear caliper. The nipple is up, the hose is down, however I have it wrapping around the top of the axle. Would this allow air to get trapped in the line?

Yep, that's what I was talking about. I was mistaken, not fenders, but the tail assembly. Pretty cool, always a shame to see an MJ chopped, though..

Maybe this'll help: If you don't already have photoshop, it's a very expensive program, probably more than is really worth it. That video suggests a program with a demo period, and how to convert those image formats into PES, VIP, etc.

I personally have not unless you count ripping out seats and just bolting them to a concrete floor, haha. I think there was one member on here that took an MJ bench and welded some fenders on for arm rests... I'll have to keep my eye out...

Puppy should go in this awesome post: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38438-jeeps-best-friend/

Digitizing as in getting physical designs into a digital format? If so I'd say your best bet would be a decent scanner and a good photo editing software like pixelmator, photoshop, etc. If that's not what you meant, though, let us know. I'm sure there are plenty of techies on this forum.

If that's the case, then I'm startin to think there's a problem with my braking system. The light will not go on, and I'm getting nothing but clean fluid with no bubbles. That's why I asked if there was a special technique to simulate that brake failure. I'm gonna try a vacuum tomorrow, if I can't get that line to purge, I think I'm gonna have to get rid of the weight sensing valve. As it stands I can't even drive my DD truck because of this damn issue.

Pictures aren't showing up. Sounds like a fun project, though. Is that what he wants it for?

Man, I like that stance. What lift/tires are they?

A commoner will just read that as a buncha numbers, and Jeep. Then they'll think: "Jeep never made a pickup, the owner must have thought his Toyota was a Jeep"... Allllll tooooo often... Awesome front plate, by the way, haha.

I want a skamper... Nice Mj, too! Any pictures of the inside?

Alright, I've experimented with how open the pass front bleeder port should be, but the brake light will not turn on. Just to make sure, I put my ebrake on to see if the light even works, it does. Do I have to slam down the brakes or something? Word for word I'm doing everything it says in those instructions.

Found it, for Dodge and GM vehicles. Worked like a charm, thanks for the help.

Oh yeah, it's been pretty much agreed upon between members that the search on here... not so good. But your right, still funny, and I'm surprised with how many times it was flagged that it's still up, too.

Still funny, even after the third time. A few members beat you to the punch, though: http://comancheclub.com/topic/40499-funny-cherokee-ad/

Wow, that is one built leaf! How much weight can it handle?

One thing confuses me in those instructions, how do you adjust the proportioning valve? From the looks of it, it has a few brake lines coming off of it and an electrical connector, but no "lever" that he mentioned.

I read the valve had to be at about a 45 degree upward angle while bleeding, but other than that I bled it the same as I do the fronts. You say loosen the valve, any more info on that?

I did a disc brake swap on my 8.25 recently. Bled the brakes 3 times, checked every connection I could for leaks, but no matter what, the brake pedal will go down about half way and stop, and I can't skid my tires no matter how hard I hit them. Coming from drums it seemed like they did alot better job at stopping. Am I missing something? The load sensor is a little higher than normal, I'd say about 60% 40% in favor of the rears. The pedal just seems too easy to push down, too. Is there a way to adjust discs?

Just redid the ground to no avail. A bum socket you say? Off to the JY...

Yeah, they've already got em. Two on the bed, also.

I don't think anyone has made a list detailing specific parts, and which brands are better than others for that part. I've never had a problem with rock auto, look for the heart next to the part your looking for and your golden. Or go to NAPA, I've never had a poor experience with their parts. Never go to autobone and buy the "good" brand, always go premium, they generally have longer or lifetime warranties.