AeroNautical

Turn those bills into Benjamins and this is dead on the money.

I just did the Renix Sensor Ground upgrade, but had a question. When I splice the 2 sets of 3 brown and white wires, what do I do with the 2 single wires that remain? I read it a few times to make sure they weren't supposed to be spliced with the other wires, but even the picture points to no.

May be normal as far as the CPS. I'm advocating that you test it to either put it IN or OUT as far as an issue. Long crank times on a Renix Jeep are normal. What's "almost everything"? O2 sensor will not give you extended crank times. Could it be bad? Yes. I meant the o2 to fix the engine running rich, I wasn't sure if that would affect it or not. Almost everything as in I've done ground refreshing, connector cleaning, tps adjustment, but have never run new grounds like you mention above. I'll get on that and report back.

I just did this swap also. External slave, right? If so, I don't think you can get any other hydraulic system, the only ones I ever found were plastic. You say it worked initially, so the clutch wasn't put in backward. Gotta ask the obvious, is it leaking? Was it pre bled when you bought it? If it is external, did you put the little clip on the passenger side of the fork inside the bell housing? Are the fingers on the pressure plate bent? The first thing I'd do is remove and inspect the hydraulics, easy to do and replace.

So there's no chance the CPS and O2 sensors have gone bad? Sometimes when trying to run the engine the starter will turn for a good 5 seconds before it actually starts. I've done most everything on that list, but the few things I haven't done yet seem to be the problems I've been having as of late. Guess I should just take a day or two and do everything.

I'm pretty sure I have it figured out, I need a new CPS and an O2 sensor, but before I sink $70 more into my 4.0 renix, I need to make sure. It takes several revolutions when engaging the starter, hot or cold, before it actually starts the engine, and on rare occasions it starts immediately. I figure it's the CPS, I doubt it's ever been replaced, but I have cleaned it very recently. When I do get the engine started, it smells like it runs very rich. No burning oil smell, TPS is adjusted perfectly, idles somewhat smoothly ( I think the CPS has something to do with that, also), and gas mileage isn't diminished as far as I can tell. O2 sensor going bad?

This might help too: Looks like a fun project (except for the electrical), look forward to the progress posts!

Right on, welcome to the addiction. Keep an eye out for a Camo MJ around there!

I drive close by there on a monthly basis, but you'd know it if you saw my MJ. Brother lives over in Dallas NC and he sees an MJ on a daily basis, not usually the same one, but NONE of em are on here, go figure.

Only other guess I have is that it's out of balance, but you haven't touched it so that shouldn't be it. I'd wait for some other members to respond.

You just stretched the limit for what I thought was capable for these trucks. 3300lbs is ridiculous!

The way your describing it, it sounds like the rivets on the clutch disc are scraping against the flywheel and pressure plate. in which case, yes, you need a new clutch. And if it's scraping, you'll need a new flywheel and pressure plate as they will be damaged. Is it slipping?

Should be an easy swap, what broke in the old one? 231?

I'm surprised at how many members live in NC. And I've yet to see another MJ while driving mine.

Yeah, my pukey is rotting away in my garage right now. Only problems with it are shifting from third to fourth. Has 220,000 miles. I did the ax15 swap to make her 4wd, that's all.

No actually, its a carabiner, a compression clip so it doesn't slide on the antenna, and some 550 chord. $5 total at lowes, but I have spools of 550 chord. Might look weird, but it gets the job done. You know, I can't honestly remember who made that antenna. The CB is a Cobra 29 LTD U.S. Army edition, and I think it came in a kit.

This is how I mounted it: Quick DIY I made to keep it from hitting trees: Sorry, I misread your post, for some reason I though you said you had the antenna, not sure why. The chord does not get in the way of shifting, but if I'm using it a lot I move the chord in front of the shifter, if it's off then I have it behind, just because it bounces a bit when it's in front.

This works perfectly for me. It's within reach at my knee, doesn't get in the way of the shifter, gives the passenger plenty of leg room. My antenna is mounted on my tool box, but it's a 102" whip, probably longer than what you've got. I'll see if I can get a picture of that up.

Could you give a little more info on the extended arms? Or better yet a writeup explaining it all, so when someone months from now needs shifter linkage and look through DIY, yours would shine.

That, is what we like to call in the trade, a hoo-dangy. It also goes by the name whachamacallit, and combobber. As for what it does, I think the names are pretty self explanatory.

You rich people and your damn smart phones, all my conversations take place on an old beat em up slide phone so I can't take a screenshot. Otherwise I'd be able to fill a page full of these.

Sold one from a 95 XJ awhile back. They aren't rare, but can be a pain to find in junkyards.

I have that same problem with my passenger side window. If it goes down too far, it falls into the door and you have to use pliers to get it. Once I do I just keep that window up or cracked, as I haven't gotten around to fixing it. What I'm going to do is get a new door, because it's easier and cheaper to do that than it is to buy and replace the regulator. How? Junkyard is your friend.

Looks like the arm connected to the hand lever is extended, that's the part I'd need more info on.