PIKE

Yes install the 2.5 expansion bottle by the air cleaner. Mounting holes are already there. Run your hose alone the fire wall and behind the washer fluid bottle. Works just fine.

Measure your ball joint diameter at the top then at the bottom of the taper. Then measure your reamer at the same distance. This will let you know if you have the correct angle reamer.

I also used the Clayton kit. For those that don't have access to welding equipment it is good choice. The kit is well thought out and very well made. It uses a 9/16" grade 8 bolt and locking nut welded to a flange for tightening. https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-death-wobble-fix-kit

Is your Ironman kit 3 or 4 link? Do you have a link to the write up? Thanks

I have thought about long arm too. My question is I have seen 3 link and 4 link set ups. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each set up. What makes one better than the other? And if one is better than the other why do they still sell the set up that is not as good? Also have seen the set up where they eliminate the top links all together. Thanks

Your very welcome. The mac tank works very well with a 2.5 expansion bottle. If you use that you have converted to an open system.

https://macsradiatorshop.com/product/macs-1987-1990-jeep-cherokee-aluminum-coolant-tank/

Sorry it took so long. 33-10.5r 15 BFG all terrains old style. They say made in USA on them. 4.5 Ribicon Express springs in front, home made springs with spring under in the rear.

I have a full case Detroit locker in the back of my truck. It does not ratchet at all. It does give you a good bang every once in awhile. Have a trutrac in the front of all three 4 wheel drive vehicles I own. Like others have said they don't fully lock up, but for a daily driver they are seamless maintenance free and do a great job in mud or snow. No compressors, electric lines or clutches to wear out.

Diesel oil in everything here too. Two generators, lawn mower, John Deere tractor, and two Jeeps. I use 5w40 full synthetic Delo for cold starts in the winter here at 6000' 15w40 Delo in the Powerstroke, it uses 14 quarts.

I need to take some. Will try and do that today.

Don't really know the mileage, never check it. I did have to get a special set up for the speedometer, it was way off after switching from 3.07 gears. That was years ago at a local shop that calibrated speedometers. I can tell you I think the 4.56 gears are perfect for 33s because 1st gear is very usable. Plenty of speed out of it and never use 2nd to start out like I do in my 1996 Powerstroke with a 5 speed. I can cruise 70 mph no problem.

I have 33-10.5-15 on stock wheels on my rig with 4.56 gears and 4.5 lift. Very happy. Rubs a little at full lock so I just don't turn the wheel that far.

There were no 1998 Ford F series diesel pickups. They skipped a model year when they came out with the Super Duty in 1999.

Ford 1996 F250 did not come with a D60 from the factory. Only F350 did. F250 came with the TTB D50. Not saying you don't have a D60. If you do it was swapped in. Or maybe your frame is from a F350. F350 D60 axle is very sought after plus it is a high pinion. I have a 1996 F250 Powerstroke extra cab short bed that I swapped in a D60 from a F350 I bought from a junk yard. I can tell you they new what they had and charged me a pretty penny. Worth it for a high pinon solid axle D60. If you do have a D60 good for you.

Looks' nice what you did. You must not have seen any of my posts. The 2.5 EXPANSION tank bolts right in. The holes are already there. You have to relocate a few things but that's no big deal, especially if you have eliminated the EGR. The MACs tank allows you to go from closed to open. Mishimoto radiator has filler neck like yours in the picture, but also has threaded insert for 89 electric fan. With that radiator you can eliminate pressure tank , use 2.5 expansion tank and have sensor for electric fan. I have the macs tank set up now but if i ever need a new radiator i will get the Mishimoto and eliminate the Macs tank with later years heater hoses. Hope this helps

I assumed you had a Macs tank. If you filled the tank half way I guess it might work, maybe someone has tried it. You don't want to plug that fitting, that's where the pressure will escape.

Once you install the aluminum tank with radiator cap you WILL have an open system. An expansion tank for a 2.5 engine works very well. It bolts right in. The holes for the screws are already there. It mounts on the drivers side towards the front of the engine bay. You will have to relocate a few things. Then just run a hose from the expansion tank to the fitting below the radiator cap. Fill the aluminum tank to the top and keep an eye on the level in the expansion tank. It has markings for cold and hot levels. I believe the OEM cap for a 4.0 is 13 psi. Hope this helps.

Just my 2 cents. Being a Mold maker for 26 years I have had to deal with lots of broken bolts and much tougher broken taps ..I highly recommend Keenserts over helicoils. I think they are much better. Please check them out. i have repaired a few Harley Davidsons with them and my own Jeep ZJ

Another vote for 4.56 with 33s. Highly recommend a trutrac for the front, your choice for the rear.

LUK has a more premium line called Pro Gold. I have had the Pro Gold version in my truck for years and many miles. Very happy with it. https://www.carid.com/luk/pro-gold-performance-clutch-kit-mpn-01-901.html

I would like to hear more about this radiator.

The Clayton kit that I show uses larger grade 8 9/16" hardware.

Clayton Off Road makes a nice kit if you want to upgrade to a larger bolt size. https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-death-wobble-fix-kit

Have always thought this one looked good. https://www.mishimoto.com/jeep-cherokee-xj-aluminum-radiator-1989-2001.html