Akula69

Kinda reminds me of the Aztek SUV that GM had crash and burn several years ago. See here: http://www.time.com/time/specials/2007/article/0,28804,1658545_1658544_1658540,00.html

What he said :agree: Also - I have a 3.55 comanche rear that has a bad pinion bearing. If you want the gears you can have them for free....but you'll need a new pinion bearing, and knowledge on setting the pinion (shim and crush sleeve calculations) which I do not (unfortunately) have. Added plus: mine are not buried in snow!

PM sent

I used it awhile back to coat the silver trim around the windshield. It peeled off after about 2 months...even though I had prepared the trim carefully. It's just not meant to be sprayed on - it was always meant to be a thick layer.

I'd recommend getting it youself. I posted a thread for a cab corner awhile back and got no responses, so I went down to the pull-a-part and looked at a Comanche they had there. The cab was good, and when I asked the manager how much he would sell the corner for he said $20.00. Cut it off using a 18 volt sawsall and went thru 4 blades doing it - took about 30 minutes. The cut was made along the inside of the doorframe up to about 1/2 way from the trim line under the handle across the cab until the pinchweld below the rear window corner, down the back and finally inside the pinchweld right along the bottom uniframe member. When I got back to the desk the manager was there, looked at what I had and told the clerk $10.00. :yes: Now I have to figure out how to flange the edges, and I'll be good.

Louisiana - Registration is good for two years. Regular truck tags cost about 64.00; custom tags are 100.00 plus the 64.00. The cost is initally based upon what you paid for the vehicle, then after that it's what they say your vehicle is worth.

#2 to recommend the Bosch pump - the only real difference I had with the '899 installation was I had to shorten a rubber fuel hose (from pump to sender). Otherwise - it was a breeze. Took longer to get the dayn thing out them replace the pump!

We are finishing up the rebuild on a 99 HO and only farmed out the pressing of the wrist pins and cam bearings. all told it's now at about 1100.00, so a quality reman is not out of the range at 1400.00-1700.00. The main reason we didn't go that route is were concerned about the quality of parts they might use. Besides, my son needed to work through his first re-build..but it sounds like your past that point.

Got a dana 35 with a bad pinion bearing you can have if you come pick it up. About a 2.5 hour drive if google is correct.

Autozone (or Autism Zone, as Don calls them), sells gasket material by the sheet. They have both real cork and a paper/edpm mix. I use the paper one with good success.

Comp cams offers three different options. I decided to stay with the stock cam.

ROFL!!! The memory that this dredged up is is so true it hurts (speaking from experience - daymn cats were everywhere...)

You were extremely lucky (or good) with the Trans bolt in the lower right of the picture. Looks like it had less then 50% of its diameter left.

Looks good. Only a few more to go....

Yellow or white are OK in Louisiana, no rescue colors (red, blue, green, etc.). Real problem is liability. If you pull a guy out and he sues you for "damages to his vehicle" kinda crap. I mean - some folks have tried to sue us for using our buddy bumpers to get them out (unsuccessfully - but still), so I suspect they would do it to you....if they knew who you were.

500 gallon propane tank @ 2.75/gallon. Of course we only have to use it from Nov - Feb - but it lasts awhile unless its really cold (freezing). Filling it is somewhat painful though... :ack:

Thanks for the reply. That engine looks great for 220K ! The crank bearings on this engine look similar to yours, only one that had any visbale damage the the thrust bearing. The others are from the rods, and the wear on them is a mystery as the crank has been miked (by shop) and found to be in proper round and oil passages were ok. The thrust bearing does have the small groves on each side sorry about blurryness - pictures taken with phone camera. Like you say: ran out with low oil is one thing; the shop thinks the rod bearings were wrong to begin with...and so far - no one can explain the chipping on the thrust bearing.

Anybody want to speculate about the chipping seen on the edge of the thrust bearing? I suspect a piece of it caused the groove in # 3 rod bearing

Rod Bearing and thrust bearing pictures, as promised: Thrust bearing # 2 rod # 3 rod # 4 rod # 5 rod # 6 rod

Knock sensor. Be sure your sitting down when you price it :eek:

I don't think it was gone through, but there are several things that have puzzled me with this one. PO indicated she "accidently" ran it hot, which is why I'm going through it now (which, by the look of the rod bearings was a good decision). Still, the freeze plugs for the cam and at the back of the block were brand new (shiny!) and the cam showed less wear then expected for 160k. Pistons still had some teflon on the skirts and the cylinders still had some cross hatching. I'll post up some picks of the bearings tonight. Edit: Photobucket is taking a crap today...I'll load them later.

Recently I started to disassemble the 4.0l that will go in my son's truck (for the 89-99 conversion. When I turned her over, I was suprised to see the larger of the bearings in the set installed at the 5th journal rather then the 3rd (as I have always seen in the past). You can see the larger bearing I am talking about in this picture (stolen from Rockauto) The journal bearings were in relatively good shape, but the rod bearings on 2, 3, 4 were partially wiped, and 6 was almost totally wiped, My question: for those who have rebuilt the engine - have you seen that bearing set in other positions as well, or was the guy at the factory not paying attention that day?

:agree:

Yeah - know what you mean. Its a great degreaser but I killed a set of bearings before I found out. :doh: From what I understand from the engine shops around here, the EPA won't even let them use caustic soda any more. Seems it offends the ants or something. Purple power is bad for bearings? Didn't know that, but then again have never tried. Like you, I always start with a bare one.

Do not use a caustic (read: oven) cleaner unless you plan on replacing the bearings, including the cam bearings. The caustic cleaner will ruin them. I am getting ready to clean the block in the conversion my son's truck is undergoing - starting with a bare block and using naptha (in a spray bottle), scrub the really greasy spots with a chip brush, then pressure wash, then soapy water wash (with Purple Power). After all that I will go through the oil and water passages with nylon brushes to clean them out, then use taps to clean out all the bolt holes. a large plastic container (like at Lowes for $ 22.00) can be placed under the block on the stand to catch the drips and keep Momma happy.... :thumbsup: Purple Power @ Autozone $ 12.00 a gallon Naptha @ Lowes $17.00 a gallon Chip brush @ Harbor Freight $0.69 Nylon brush kit @ Harbor Freight $ 6.00 Tap and Die Set ` varies. I got mine at Autozone for about $18.00