Akula69

I recommend 'Road Ninjia' We don't travel as much as we used to, but when we did I had noticed (over time) that the Highway Safety folks had not been updating thier signs as much as they used to, and we would be driving down the highway wondering "Is there someplace to eat off this exit?" It works pretty well, and has some downright funny words of wisdom (from the Ninjia's point of view) sometimes. At work we use Shooter Ballistics Calculator for Android and iOS phones (in place of a handheld calculator). See it at: http://www.shooterapp.net/

Alrighty - some actual progress! I installed the stealership CKP this evening and then ran the truck for about 30 miles without problems. After that I let it idle in the driveway for an hour while I ate dinner, then I drove it for another 10 miles. NO CODES! :banana: I will slowly start reversing the harness changes (that I made to bypass it) tomorrow and monitor the progess. After the successgul run, I compared the Wells CKP to the stealership one, and noted the Wells model did not have any magnetism at all...in fact, when I researched it on the internet the infor sheet on it (from NAPA) says it is an "advanced electronic model that does not need to be magnetised". Hmmmm. Thanks for everyones help. :cheers:

As of tonight we have: Purchased new harness plugs for the CMP and the CKP, and ran seperate wiring from the plugs to the PCM, bypassing the harness entirely. Purchased a new front O2 sensor to match the back one, since we were told a mis-match can cause problems we have been experiencing. Ordered a THIRD OEM CKP from the stealership - after being told that it it the only "reliable' way to ensure the CKP is not "throwing stray signals into the circuit". The problem has now solidified itself to only happening when the engine is warmed up (closed loop) and at idle. I can drive this truck around for 30-60 minutes and not experience a problem, but park it at idle for 5 minutes and it throws the P0340 and the P1391. I am thinking if the OEM CKP does not resolve the issue the only thing left is the PCM.... Any thoughts are welcome! Thanks! Jake

Alexia had it right - I was unaware of the difference between the 1999 and the 200-01 harnesses

Very nice. You've done a great job!

Yeah, my 88 and 89 MJ are the same as your diagram, but (for some odd reason) Alldata shows it reversed for 87. You know, it's the opposite order for me on my '88 XJ... The A/C relay is all the way on the left in mine and the O2 is the far right... Same with my '90 XJ donor. What's up with that? Edit - Like so:

Not the first time I've purchased a new 'defective in the box' item....I suppose I'll have to check it as well.

Yes, this vehicle retains it's proportioning valve. I am using a MJ specific distribution block which I have checked and cleaned. Thanks

All installed - no leaks...but the brake light is still on. It does have some stopping ability, but you have to be careful! I'll check for leaks again tomorrow and bleed it again I suppose.

Well, the new master booster did not solve the problem, but it did eliminate the P1391 code. Drove it for about 30 miles today without problems, then when sitting at idle I slowly revved the engine from 700 up to 4500 and then let if fall off on its own. It threw the P0340 code directly after. Next step is direct wiring from the PCM to the camshaft position sensor. I have an extra (salvage) harness that I will cut the plug from. The service mamager said that breaks internal to the wire (inside the insulation) can reduce the strands to 1 that will still show continuity but cause intermittant signal. After that, who the he!! knows :dunno: .

From left to right: O2 sensor relay Fuel Pump relay B+ Latch relay A/C relay but you know the drill Jim - try unplugging and re-plugging the CPS...it might be that.... :hmm:

Ah - I'm sorry gentleman...I was using shorthand that only my brain could understand! I was asking about the flares in general...I have replaced the power booster and the distribution block, but retained the prop valve in the rear and I am bending new lines for all of them. We replaced the power booster Friday and had to replace the DS front line. Despite tightening all the lines we cannot get the pressure to build up. There are no leaks so all I can assume is air is being drawn in some where (however, once bled the system produces no bubbles!). I was trying to determine what flares were used at the distribution block and the prop valve...but my brain was not translating it to my fingers doing the typing! :doh: However, I believe the answer is double flares all around. Thanks!

Working on the brake system on the MJ and have a question. I have retained the MJ proportioning valve but have replaced the mater cylinder and power booster. Bending new lines now and wondered if anyone knew: Does the MJ prop valve used bubble flares or double flares, and how could one tell? What flare does the XJ prop valve use? The reason I ask is, after searching the threads here in the forum, I have found conflicting results. Thanks!

Well, there are several models, but the one we purchased has an electrical cord for 120V and an air attachment (from a compressor). PSI is limited to 15, and you start the air flow, then plug it in. A heating element inside the body heats the air flow (controlled by a rheostat) up to 600 degrees. the heated air leaves the end of the tool through the hollow tip. It is a mix between soldering and melting. When up to temperature, you direct the air flow on the plastic where you want to weld, and after it is sufficiently heated you introduce a plastic welding rod (we used a sliver of the old XJ HDPE tank) and allow it to 'melt' into the tank. You then can 'spread' the semi-solid plastic with the side of the tip.

As part of the idle problems Ryan was having we thought the sender was bad, so I bit the bullet and purchased a new Airtex sender for 221.00 ( :thwak: ). We submerged the new sending unit in a fresh bucket of gasoline and hooked it up, only to find it behaved exactly like the old one. Needless to say, it was removed, dried and returned, but as closure to this thread the lesson is: the Dakota sending units / fuel pumps will pump solid stream for a period of time, and if line pressure does not cause an auto shut-off they will "sputter" while running.

Broke down and took the truck to the stealership yesterday. Got there at around 0700 (before the service desk folks) and had the chance to walk through the service bays - it was really disturbing to see all the mid- and full size Ram pickups in there with the transfer cases / transmissions down. The first tech that showed up said they were 4 days behind on service :ack: . Anyway, made friends with the service manager who hooked the DRBIII to the truck and put it through it paces. Among the observations he / I made: 1) All Chrysler vehicles will occasionally go 'out of sync' occasionally. seeing that on a scanner is not necessarily an indication of problems. 2) $6000.00 scanners really are better and can make the truck do really cool stuff! 3) Small vacuum leaks inside the master booster , while not visible, will make very strange things happen to the way an engine runs. He found the leak by watching the MAP pressure reading on the scanner while pressing the brake pedal. when the pedal went down the PSI dropped from around 17 to 10. and, best of all: Sometimes folks don't charge you because they are just plain nice! :clapping: No running problems since booster was replaced, but still keeping fingers crossed. However, the good pressure of the new booster has uncovered brake line leaks.... :wrench:

Well, it appears that the tank is sealed and we strapped it up tight. No problems (except for 61.00 per fill up)!

Jim - I replaced ours with a kit of 4 from Autozone...they were in the 'Help" section (but the sales guy had no clue - I found them on my own). They have two sizes - 1/4 and 3/8.

Does not seem he is serious to sell...he said "he is finally going to depart with it." :rotf:

The fitting is on the 1992 Dakota fuel sending unit, but the later model units have a blank, raised circle where it should go. As long as the clearances are OK you could use a brass fitting...but the OD of the brass fitting would have to match the line.

We did drill the tank (using a Forster bit) to insert the rollover vent, but we used the regular fuel filler neck and hole already on the tank. Generally, I try not to duplicate pictures on the forums as they take up the most space. I would like to direct you to my son's thread on the rebuild - the pictures are there. http://comancheclub.com/topic/38725-89-resto-to-99-conversion/ Additionally, we had a small set-back with the tank - it developed a small leak where we had 'modified' it. Last night we re-sealed it with a plastic welding tool from Harbor Freight. It worked great, even if the process is a bit slow. The critical thing to remember with a plastic welder is to use the welding material that is identical to the original (i.e. - HPDE strips must be used to seal HDPE). The tool we purchased was not expensive but you will need an old tank to get slivers of HDPE to weld with. http://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-welding-kit-with-adjustable-temperature-96464.html

Ah...better get up a good head of steam before triggering the 8 .50's - I hear they can really slow you down

What about this? Should be enough space I would think... http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low/p-00952166000P

But don't you need a horse whisperer? lol Really, you should call them in and see how much they really know about equines. It would be a comic relief for the day.

The transplant is pretty much identical down to the placement of the engine bay components, as we wanted to ensure the harnesses would 'reach' their components. As Ryan said, the only variation I have seen up front is the Wells CPS has a slightly shorter whip (where it connects to the harness) that causes it to run in a straight line past the exhaust manifold...but I would consider that a good aspect (not as prone to melting) rather then an electrical interference one. The first CPS replacement was the exact length, but it was from Autozone and I wanted to eliminate the possibility of a "broke in the box" sensor. We did make custom harnesses from the original XJ body harnesses in the cab back to the XJ tail light harnesses, but it was mainly just lengthening the existing wires. We did remove and cap the plugs for the rear door harnesses on both sides of the body harness. We did connect the Dakota sender plug to the XJ fuel sender wires. Although the wire colors were different the diagrams clearly showed the correct connections. The harnesses were originally cleaned and re-wrapped where necessary, but after the onset of this problem the top harness (all sensors) was completely stripped and checked before being re-wrapped again with newer loom. Last night I noticed the Temp sensor on the thermostat housing was fractured where the plastic connector meets the nut. We replaced it and ran the truck for another 5 miles. It behaved for the most part - except for the P0138 - 2nd O2 sensor high voltage, but it was much cooler here at that time. Although the problem has occurred at random times I am starting to suspect excessive heat may be a factor (although it has never overheated and hangs at 210 degrees/aux fan works as advertised). We will test run it today after we get the new video of the timing and post the results. Thanks guys