Akula69

Done. Thanks for hosting for us.

:yeah that:

I have found them to be high on shipping. If they would ever put on free shipping I'd be on that like stink on S$*&.

Yes. In the internet search of the part number, the hose appeared at other online retailers as well, but some of them looked kind of random so I ordered it from Summit (even though it cost a bit more). The lengths (for straight hose) shown on the Goodyear site are bulk...I believe Summit sells from a spool at pre-cut lengths for straight runs.Hose with a pre-formed bend are sold at the length shown on the Goodyear site

NOTE: in the second picture (white plug) I do not see the plug on that harness for the Sentry key system (the "smart" keys with the fat plastic head on them) because Cryco used several different color plugs for that security module, it could be that plug as well. The interlock solenoid plug has two wires, the security module plug has six. If you do not have the Sentry key system you will not use that plug (but it can be used for an overhead console at a later date!)

OK - In reverse order: The round barrel plug can be one of three things (its difficult to see as picture is blurred): an O2 sensor, the plug for the rear of the transmission; or the second plug for the transfer case (242J). Second picture: Plug by the electronic solenoid on the ignition lock cable. Cable runs from ignition to floor shifter. In your picture if you look directly up from the plug you can see a small black cable with vividly bright white numbers on it. That is the interlock cable - follow it back till you find the solenoid. First picture: Yes, but we replaced all out power and ground leads in the harness, so mine do not look like that. They should attach on the studs for the coil with nuts. You can see the two nuts in question at the top of the picture.

http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductListing.aspx?folderid=934 Where we got our info, and purchased the actual product from summit.

Very sad story. Not that it matters (because of the tragedy) but: In the video, at approx. 2.12 it shows the vehicle the young ladies were driving...can't tell if its a Toyota Camry or a Hyundai Sonata, but it appears another MJ is sitting in the impound yard beside the victims' vehicle. The perp was driving a Ford Mustang. It says nothing about the speeds they were travelling at, but the video of the road they were on indicates a two lane highway. We've had this conversation in the forum before - please don't drive after drinking. It's just not worth it. :no:

Congratulations! Great Job...and Alexia is correct - that first run is always the best!

Mostly on-target, but you miss the mark here: "If your engine was not designed for high octane or if you are having a pinging problem, then you are throwing your money away using high octane gasoline." Absolutely correct about the engine not benefiting from high octane gasoline unless designed for it. That generally means high compression or forced induction, which is what it takes to get the benefit from high-octane. But pinging can happen from carbon build-up in the combustion chamber (on both head and piston) or from unusual running under heavy load, and an engine in this condition would indeed benefit. If pinging cannot be controlled (by ignition timing changes via manual setting or knock sensor, or by fuel/air ratio compensation, typically by oxygen sensor feedback), short of pulling off the head and decarbonizing or gearing down, use of high-octane gasoline may be the only practical cure. edit: maybe I misread you, and I merely restated in detail the very point you were making? :???: :agree: The Renix engine in the 87 has never been rebuilt (as far as I know) and runs great, but when I put the diagnostic scanner on it the ping is pretty bad with 87 octane, and we were getting around 10 MPG. When we use 93 octane (or add an octane booster), the pinging stops and we get upwards of 15-16 MPG. After looking into it for a bit, I think this only applies with the Renix engines, because the HO models do not have a separate ping sensor (but could be misinformed there). Since the 89-99 conversion, mileage has varied greatly (between 15 and 21 MPG) on 87 octane, but the engine is still breaking in.

Got an intact hatch (with wiper and nozzle) sitting in my yard. Getting ready to take the remains to the JY for scrap. You can have nozzle/wiper arm for free if you PM me the address.

Pretty clean job. I wonder what tranny he has in it.

grrrrrr......

Congratulations!

Remove top (next to windshield) defrost tray. Held on by three phillips screws Remove knee bolster on bottom of dash. This can be held on by any number of screws and the emergency brake pull handle. If you have a console it can be helpful to remove it at this point. Remove both side kick panels. Remove cluster bezel and cluster. Remove radio, A/C-Heater controls Loosen the two (one on each side) 15 MM bolts holding bottom of dash. Do not remove yet. Remove the four 8MM bolts revealed when you took the defroster tray off. May require several 1/4 extensions to reach. Remove two 15 MM steering column nuts. Either remove pinch nut on intermediate shaft and disconnect harnesses and remove column, or simply lower column. Rotate dash towards inside of cab and downward as possible, disconnecting harnesses and other connections as found. In Engine bay, drain cooling system and remove heater hoses from core. Remove vacuum line above heater lines. If you have A/C, remove charge professionally, then disconnect lines from evaporator. Remove the five 10MM nuts from the HVAC case studs - they are visible along the back of engine compartment on firewall. Inside cab, remove one 10MM bolt from top of case, disconnect harnesses from case and pull free. Replace core(s), to reinstall follow steps above in reverse.

Great! Good luck!

All the fuse boxes are constructed the same from 97 to 01 on the XJ, but some of the wires are swapped around (and therefore the fuse locations). The only reliable source for a diagram of the P/S kick panel fuse box I have found has been in the owner's manual for the year in question. There are bunches of examples on the internet - and they all look the same - but be sure it's for your year! I ended up buying a 99 owner's manual from Fleabay. As far as the heated seats go, if your donor did not come with them installed, then it probably didn't have the controls for them either. You might want to research how the switch interconnects as well

Front turn signals: We did not have a problem with these, the harness for the front cap was plug-and-play for us. In the past, problems with turn signals on the older nose caps are most commonly associated with corrosion on where the harness plugs in, bad bulb sockets, or bad grounds. If you have spliced in a plug, I would check those splices and wire codes for correctness, then I would clean the plug(s), then check for current at the contacts in the socket when the bulb is supposed to be lit. Heated seats: We did not have that option, but the plugs for it should be on the cross body harness (included in the seatbelt warning wiring and the electric seat wiring. I do not know where the fuses for them would be...a good look at the wiring diagram would help. Rear Trailer harness: How you hook this up depends on how you wired the rear lights. The color codes for the wires are different - again, you'd have to look at the wiring diagram to determine.

Understand. If you cannot find a good one close by consider shipping. Lets make a deal!

Ask and ye shall receive! http://comancheclub.com/topic/33662-refurbishing-the-fuel-sender/?hl=fuel+sender

http://comancheclub.com/topic/40227-engine-for-sale-louisiana/

In answer to your question, the sending units are no longer available for purchase new. However, I agree with the checking of the grounds before you try to get a used one. I have rebuilt sending units, and would be glad to tell you how to rebuild your for free, (or I could rebuild yours for the price of the parts). If that's just not your bag, I have two extras and might be convinced to part with one.

My first thought would be to check that you have the three large (rectangular in shape) plugs under the dash seated properly. Remember the "no bUs" problem we had was related to a plug that 'clicked' together but was not seated properly. There are two beside the D/S kick panel and one just to the left of and above the gas pedal. Also, be sure and check all the fuses / relays in the panel on the P/S.

The short answer is no, when your short is solved nothing needs to be plugged into them...but if the short is on one of those circuits it will be there until you resolve it. In our case, through trial and error we eliminated the plugs on the harness for the rear door switches and the hatch switch, but we solved the shorting problems first (to make sure what we did during elimination of the plugs did not aggravate the problem). We cut all the loom away and traced the wires back to the closest splices and trimmed them there. We used this method to not only eliminate the rear door switches, but also the rear door lock/electric window plugs as well.

The tail lights on Ryan's truck behaved the same as yours are initially, and we ended up extending a ground from the cab harness (it was on the original XJ harness going to the back down the passenger side to the junction block inside the quarter panel), to the frame near the X member. We cleaned the paint/primer off and confirmed 'good ground' (ran jumper to + battery terminal for one multimeter lead and then touched the frame with he other lead) and screwed it in. Immediately the tail lights stopped the 'dim' illumination and worked properly. This ground was also the one that ran to the fuel pump (from the same splice inside the cab). We messed with the door switches for a long time before realizing the circuit is (1) closed circuit (without body ground in the cab) (2) looped with the two lights under the dash, the visor mirror illumination, and the (XJ) rear door switches and rear hatch switch and (3) a huge PITA. There are two fuses in the PDA and one in the passenger side kick panel for the interior lights - all 15 AMP minis. For the time being (and the reduce your stress) disconnect the harness plugs for the interior lights (at all locations) and then check for good ground at the fuel pump. You might need to establish a direct ground to the frame by the battery (- battery terminal to inner fender) if you do not have one to ensure frame grounds. One of the ways the dealer techs 'check' for good, full wire continuity in wiring is to take a regular headlight bulb and run one lead directly to the battery (or to the hot wire in the circuit) from the low beam + side and the other is on the - side of the bulb and touched to the ground lead. If you have continuity with just a few wire strands it will illuminate dimly - it you have full continuity it will be on full. Be extremely careful doing this - bulb will get hot quickly!