Akula69

"-Why are you such a d!ck? Everything is relative, you should see my friends" This is.....classic. Must remember for the next traffic stop! :rotf: :rotfl2: :thumbsup:

Hey, Hey, Hey - give the man a chance! A person can dream, can't they?

Used Raybuck on the fronts and cut the roof from the donor XJ for the backs. Worked like a charm.

The rod that attaches the inside 'slide' lock on the door panel to the lock unit binds when bent on the 1997-01 XJ doors. Try unfastening the panel and then using the electric lock button. If the doors lock, its the rod. I worked Ryan's for about an hour without success...his still won't lock electrically with the interior door panels on.

Ah yes...the famous problem with the door plungers! When we swapped the interior harness, we installed the "new" interior dome light plungers as well. We quickly found several problems, (minor ones but still): (1) The dome light switches (plungers) are not grounded to the body but have the typical two-wire (+ and -) setup. If for some reason the rubber boot on the switch has been damaged it will ground out against the frame. (2) These plugs are prone to internal failure, especially in the rust belt. Good thing is, the XJ came with 4 (if its the 4-door model). (3) If there are any grounds 'loose' in the cab, for some unknown reason the dome lights glow dimly (even with the doors closed) and the tail/turn lights work erratically. Any of these problems will cause the ground for the fuel pump circuit to freak out, as it is part of the interior harness ground circuit. However, the fix is easy: If you swapped these XJ door plungers over with the interior harness, there is a plug on the harness near the kick panel on each side that you can disconnect (assuming the carpet is still out). Do them one at a time and you will isolate the faulty switch. If you did not swap them over, but used the older, body grounded switches you might have to change them. If these items are not your issue, check the PDC in the engine compartment. The fuel pump relay is there, as well as one of the fuses for the interior lighting circuit. Try swapping an existing relay with the one for the fuel pump (they are all the same). Let us know how things went! Edit: Oops! My son posts quicker!

We had fun the last time we did the brakes on one of the systems. Bled everything, and went back through it about 5 times (going through three quarts of fluid!). Turned out I had to crack the lines free from the distribution block while someone pressed the pedal to remove the last stubborn air bubbles. Had brakes after that.

Very well done. Congratulations!

:yeah that:

Jim - is there anything that you won't mess with? :rotfl2:

Jim - I swear, I'm gonna get you a set of armor to wear if you don't stop letting those Jeeps beat you up...

For the purists in the forum, the two major problems with this build were: 1) The 'nobus' issue. This was eventually resolved as the result of a connector on the upper engine harness that was not engaged completely (not locked). This connector DOES NOT appear in the wiring diagrams for the bus communications network (it has one wire in position # 7 which goes from the transmission to the TCU), and we only discovered it completely at random when we went around checking all the connectors in the chance we had "missed something". For those who need to know, it is called the C1 connector, a black, rectangular connector just behind the transmission dipstick. 2) The rough idle. See thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/39722-rough-idle-and-p0340-p1391/. This problem was eventually solved by using a factory MOPAR crankshaft position sensor. Believe me, I would not have thought this as I have used numerous aftermarket CPS in the past...but this engine wanted the real thing. Finally, this body/engine combination provides much more torque and acceleration then the truck really needs - you can easily spin the rear tires from a dead start halfway up the street if you want...I can only imagine how great the acceleration must be on Alexia's and Hornbrod's strokers.......

Glad you are feeling better. The front axle U-joints and seals are the one thing we did not do yet on Ryan's. I have the parts...hopefully we will get to it this fall during the holiday break. Yours looks great!

Flame wrench and a BFH works.

:thwak:

Its not necessarily for the compliance issues. The PCM will contimue to throw codes (and illuminate the MIL) until the system is installed. That is a clean install. We installed my son's in approximately the same spot.

Hmmm....Outlook says it sent it. I will try sending again with less pictures attached.

Sent you several images. Because this is a "spare" fender, I can (alternately) remove the emblem and position it on a better surface, or re-paint it if necessary. Let me know.

Well, Ryan is at school, and I have been doing some small stuff to take this project towards completion. The truck would not hold an AC charge, so I had to pull the dash to replace the evaporator core, and figured tempting fate on an old heater core was not good juju, so it got swapped as well. Looked longingly at the blower but left it alone. Buttoned it all up and (yeah - you guessed it!) the blower would not work. Replaced blower and charged the system. Now, its cold enough to hang meat in that thing but the blower makes a rubbing soumd. Pulled blower THREE TIMES looking for the sound, could not find a reason for it ( the new blower is identical in all aspects to old blower), so adjusted blower until noise was low and called it done. I love working on these trucks, but I can't tell you how many times I have said "not again"! There are a few minor problems left but they should be accomplished in time. A inspection sticker and tire balance/front end alignment and hopefully she will provide years of service! In other good news: I have been driving the @#$% out of it, and after the 500 mile oil change today the tank was filled and mileage calculated: 21 MPG on the highway!!!! :eek:

Question: When it happens, does the blower (whether you have AC or not) also stop running? If so, look to the ignition switch on the lower right-hand side of the steering column. In some cases they overheat and melt, causing flaky behavior form the radio (and all the other devices that draw current through the ignition switch).

On it. If it will ever stop raining here (we are putting life jackets on the frogs) I'll get your picture.

I used to have a thread on here about overheating and the bottom hose collapsing, but I cannot find it now. The gist of it was the hose with the spring is no longer available, and I wnet to NAPA and, after looking through all thier hoses (the owner is a friend) I settled on a chevrolet hose with a spring in it...took it home and cut the spring out, then threaded it into the jeep hose. If I could find the thread I have the NAPA hose part number in it....

Pete - Look in Sept COTM at the second photo (on the fender) . If that is what you are looking for I will pull that fender out of storage and take you several good close-ups.

No. The line from the "nose" goes to the rear axle flex hose, the outlet on the bottom of the front distribution block gets plugged. Thanks. Eventually I will install the adjustable valve, but cannot order and get it here in time for placing the truck in service. When I do receive it, I will plumb that valve into the "Main" line and remove the other line and the height sensing valve completely.

Well, I looked at that thread. And I am going to keep the MJ distribution valve. BUT....in the picture that you refer too the author (Pete) stated "Notice I tried to plug the wrong valve" In his picture, he plugged the bottom valve and plumbed the front one. I just wanted to be sure which one was the right one

OK - I know this horse was turned into glue long ago, but I just want to be sure: On the MJ distribution block, the port you plug to eliminate the rear height sensing valve is the one on the nose of the block, right? and the one on the bottom front is to be plumbed directly into the lines from the rear axle? So many threads have come and gone ion this, and many pictures have been removed. There is no 'clear' picture of the entire system (as did exist some time ago). Thanks!